Topics created by Phaedrux

Solved!

It turns out the config gen tool creates a homeall.g file with a series of G1 commands instead of a simple G30. When I converted it to use G30, I also left a "G92 Z0" command behind thinking it was correct. It is not when the G30 is used to home the axis. It caused a Z offset that resulted in following G29 and G32 commands to fail on probing.

I am not sure if this is a similar issue or not. Unfortunately I can no longer edit the references to it in my post.

My updated homeall.g now looks like this.
[0_1609398857654_homeall.g](Uploading 100%)

FYI, my M115...
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.1.1 ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.0 or 1.01 + DueX5 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2020-05-19b2

ABear

insane, i just followed his blog/tutorial last night and am reading this today!

RIP good man

@mh said in Turn your printer into a Juke Box.:

Hmm... The PanelDue 3.0 buzzer seems to be a DC version that has a built-in frequency generator and a little "+" on the housing indicating its polarity?
Was that different in earlier versions?

This post might better belong as a new thread in the paneldue forum for better visibility.

Depends on your budget, but if a Bugati Byron is above your limit, maybe a Voron V0 kit?

note: the the h parameter is for tmc5160 only not for tmc2224

@mrehorstdmd said in E3D Hermes:

This new thing looks great, but it looks like the heat break just screws into the heatsink, the same as the V6. Did they do anything to secure it in the heatsink?

I've had the heat break come loose from the V6 hot-end many times during prints, screwing up the print quality. There is no way to securely mount the heatbreak in the heatsink- there's nothing to grab with a wrench on either the heatsink or the heatbreak, and no set screws. You can't twist it in by grabbing the heater block because the throat of the heat break is so thin it will break.

This. I have raged so hard about this many times before. It would have been the easiest thing in the world for them to add a set screw in the heatsink that tightens agaínst the upper part of the heatbreak that has no threads on it.
This is what i have done in the new extruder that i built, and it works like a charm.
But in general the whole e3d design is flawed with the unsupported heatbreak.

@milangupta1 said in Unstable temps all of the sudden. PT100:

Any ideas on where I should start ?

Check the cartridge for any damage.
Check the wiring for any breaks.
Move the print head around and see if you can trigger it with movement.
Try the other PT100 port on the daughter board.

@phaedrux Fascinating stuff - thanks for sharing.👍

@bberger Awesome!!

I would prefer a real time thing, probably something that could slow down the step clock if the filament extrusion is getting a bit behind.