Topics created by Ottobawt

@dbenhart said in Orbiter V3.0, Can the "smart" hardware be used with Duet2/RRF?:

I'm wondering whether anyone made progress on this topic, connecting a Smart Orbiter 3 to a Duet board. I have a Duet3 MB6HS and am trying to with up the SO3 to it. Specifically, I'm trying to connect the filament sensor and LED. I've got it wired up to IO4, with the yellow/LED being on IO4.out, and brown/filament-sensing being on io4.in. I've got blue/GND and red/+5v wired up to the corresponding pins on IO4 as well. I'm not getting anything from the LED, and the voltage change on the filament sensor doesn't make any sense either. I'm using a multimeter to measure IO4.in to GND, but the voltage change is only 0.1V when I put filament in. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Have you been able to make any sense of this? I just finished mounting the SO3 to my Toolchanger, and now need to tackle the electronic side: printing works, but would be nice to have the filament sensor working. I understand that the LED matrix is not addressable in Duet2 but hopefully the triggers/button can be read?

@Ottobawt if the touch screen is a PanelDue then search the web for a resistive touch membrane of the correct size with the.ribbon cable in the correct position.

@droftarts
Thank you for answering this so clearly, I appreciate it ! I'm back running again.
I may have questions in the future, but this will do for the moment.

Cheers!

@Ottobawt the calibration process assumes that the bed is flat, the towers are parallel to each other, and the Z probe has the same trigger height at all point. If one of these conditions is not satisfied then calibration may indeed result in not printing to scale and square, especially if you use 8- or 9-factor calibration.

If the bed is aggressively textured, then using a large number of calibration point will help because it will tend to average out the lack of bed flatness.

Alternatively you could put a flat glass plate on top of the bed, run calibration, then remove the plate and adjust the calibrated homed height by the thickness of the plate.

It will automatically connect to the access point that has the best signal strength.

You could clear your currently save SSIDs and then only re-add the access point that works.

Or you could change your config.g to specify the SSID you want to use.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m552-set-ip-address-enabledisable-network-interface

M552 S1 P"MyNetwork"

@ottobawt Is there any particular reason you need to update? You should be able to update to RRF 2.05.1 (the last RRF 2.x version) without changing your config; though it depends on how 'stock' your configuration is. Also send M115 and post the response, so we know what Duet boards you have.

If you want to update to the latest RRF version (currently 3.3 is the stable release), you will need to make significant changes to your config, though. As others have said, post your config.g (and config-override.g, if you use it) or the whole of your sys folder. That can be used to create a new config with the RepRapFirmware configuration tool.

Updating the firmware and DWC is pretty straightforward too. I recently tested, and was able to update from 1.19 to 3.0, then to 3.3. I would recommend you start with a fresh SD card, though. See https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/SD_card#creating-the-file-structure to set up a new SD card.

@dougal1957 said in I need hands on support upgrading my Delta's firmware.:

it would also help if we knew which board you have?

@ottobawt said in I need hands on support upgrading my Delta's firmware.:

I'm still on 1.19.2 and 2.01.

I guess he's got two, and at least one is a Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet/Maestro. RRF 2.01 doesn't run on Duet 06, 085 or Duet 3. Duet 06 and 085 can run 1.26.1, which is equivalent to 2.05.1.
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/2.05.1

Ian

@t3p3tony

Thank you for the explanation.

I do believe I found the gremlin that started this, seemed the power wires to the fan's PCB start to fray and looked possible that they were shorting... but I tossed it just in case it was something else.

I sure hope this repair isn't too tricky.

@o_lampe said in FAN0 =dead - Need FAN2 to turn on with FAN0? How?:

use M563 P0 D0 H1 F2, if you have defined F2 before

This is what I tried, no luck.

; Fans m106 P0 H-1 M106 P1 T50 S255 H1 M106 P2 H-1 ; Tool definitions M563 P0 D0 H1 F2 ; Define tool 0, the extruder (D0 = Default slot/plug) G10 P0 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures M92 E414 ; Set extruder steps per mm(last850

@bearer Sorry, I think you are wrong. At least in latest firmware 2.05.1 the "P" parameter is functional ( Invoking via the S parameter does nothing ). My previous post's screenshot is directly from the console and I tested the command functionally and M564 P1 does indeed allow out of limit effector travel. Perhaps you are running an older firmware version.

Is the endstop a microswitch, or some other type? If it's a microswitch then the most likely cause of the problem is a bad crimp connection in the cable.

@ottobawt No that's fine. It's 12v and 24v compatible and reduces the output for usb to 5v. It's also a handy voltage display for your PSU.

https://folgertech.com/products/ft-mega-i3

This will get you going, $350 american made 300mm square 400mm tall build area.

Get yourself some bracing, some toothed idlers and a glass bed, maybe some derlin linear bearings too.

I would recommend an FT-5 R2, but it needs a few little tweaks to make it shine- it's also a PITA to build.

Came here to suggest d300vs.

Since you already have one (I do too and love it) How about a DICE printer? It’s bowden but it’s so tiny the bowden penalty is small.

Hope the Titan aero is working for you. I binned mine and went BMG due to endless problems.

Here are a couple of variations on the method suggested by @Jacotheron

Use a DC-AC solid state relay instead of a relay board. Connect the control terminals between PS_ON and +5V. Use a 5V relay module, which is easier to find that a 24V relay module. Connect the 5V power input between +5V and ground, and connect the control input between +5V and PS_ON.

I've got an idea for a future concept but making a change as you requested to the current DWC version is not trivial.
The web interface provides basically everything that a user may wants to do on a tablet, so I am reluctant to cut off functionality depending on the screen size even if that might simplify things for you. The UI is already responsive so it is already more or less touch-screen optimised.

Once the layout and functionality of the web interface can be modified as needed you can achieve what you have in mind, but it will take a while longer before we get to this stage.