Topics created by opentoideas

@elmoret thanks. That was what I was hoping.

That's the way the person at E3D I spoke to was suggesting I guess but odly it works out cheaper to just make the set out of spare parts. Go figure 😆

@opentoideas you only need to hold the buttons down (both of them) while the tool board is powering up and for about 1 second afterwards.

You can also use M997 B20 to tell the board to load new firmware.

@jay_s_uk thanks, that was what I was thinking and at least I will then know the spec I am working with.

Swapped the x and y motors and endstops and think thats fixed it. Thanks again for the pointer.

I think I went clockwise not anticlockwise when I first added the Duet.

@dc42 thanks, thats what I was guessing but I am a complete newb with Delta kinematics so couldnt get my head wrapped round it.

it might "just" be possible to mount the toolboard below the smart effector so I am adapting my part cooling shroud but it is really tight and may have to wait until my magball arms as my current adapter costs me even more space

@rjenkinsgb

thank you, I normally use fusion 360 but for this one I had my first go with Tinkercad and for editing stl's its great but its not great for making fluid connections or at least I wasnt able to figure it out in the day but everything is supported and should be robust.

once its printed I will start the assembly and wiring and with luck it will all be working over the weekend. lots of fiddly crimps to look forward too!

@opentoideas
Having two accel-sensors was part of an earlier discussion. The toolboard sensor mounted to the frame and another on the toolhead/effector. The shaper-plugin should build the difference of both curves.
Not sure how much has been implemented yet, I still use the Caliper method 😊

@phaedrux said in Delta endstops trigger but dont stop homing movement:

It sounds like maybe your endstops aren't matched up with the towers.

that was it exactly. the X was where I expected but I had the Y and Z swapped.

all sorted and the fun continues - thank you for the help

@zapta Nice 👍

@jens55

yes when it works its great and I am really missing having it around so I bit the bullet and ordered a new one along with the printed parts just to rule them out as a cause.

unfortunately while I have got the sensitivity to the point even a light tap triggers the only thing that wont trigger is the probe touching the bed.

I have tried with speeds from 300 to 950 all with the same result and added tension to the bed levelling springs on the unlikely chance that was the problem but it always crashes into the bed deflecting the whole hotend carriage before triggering.

I have posted to the Reprap forum as their site suggests so will have to keep manually levelling until I hear back.

update to 3.0 went fine and heaters showed up fine. update to 3.3 seems to be taking a long time on the prompt
"please wait while updates are installed"

will give it a short while then refesh the webpage - had to reboot but 3.3 loaded successfully

unfortunately caught myself out on X where direction was reversed - note to self update the comments to reflect changes!

Z probe not working so thats my next bit to research - all sorted and calibration awaits - thanks again

@chrishamm - lol simple when you know how!

Thank you so much - I couldn't believe it wasn't available in the new version so figured I
was missing something

@supraguy

I have been all through the mechanics of this machine while I am waiting for bits to improve things and belts are tight and everything is as solid as can be expected with the exception of the bed which as its only held badly in the center and has a flimsy mounting plate that has compliance that gets worse the further from the centre you move. the X carriage was also never designed to handle the additional weight of the direct drive extruder and the bottom wheel mount not only flexes but bends out of shape over time.
0_1536824805458_carriage mount.jpg

to be fair the standard head with bowden is so light that this would not have been an issue so I don't blame the machine but until I get the parts to try and correct this its what I have to work with.

whilst I can tighten things up by the end of a print (or sooner) the weight has deformed the tang that the wheel bolts to and I have to disassemble it straighten it out and start again. this is obviously less than ideal and wont work for long as the tang will fatigue but hopefully long enough to print the parts I will need for the alterations.

yes there is clear ringing on the X and Y faces, on the bottom gaps from under extrusion and other artifacts on all sides. I think Phaedrux is on the right track and I messed up the speeds.

@Phaedrux

since I am gaining quite a collection here are all of the faces

cube faces.jpg

I think the bottom face cube its the last one I printed with more normal settings and I will give your numbers a try next. now you mention it I think I upped the perimeters to 4 to see if that would help which it didn't so I will set that back to 2

I am looking forward to playing with the settings more once I have the mechanical problems sorted out but while the machine is so loose I am conscious that it will be difficult to know which settings are making real differences and what is just the result of poor mechanics.(especially for a novice like me)

My plan is to go for "good enough" and design / find the parts I need and print them. once I complete the repairs and get the machine a bit more dialled in I can then reprint the parts if I am not happy with them.

Yes only 2 weeks. Already spoken to E3D but wanted to ask on here to be sure it wasnt me missing something stupid.

Thanks again

@phaedrux

yes that's what I was doing and in the end I gave up as i could not get any consistency at all from the probe - error all the way from 0 to 1.3mm to no response and a crush of the nozzle.

this was no fault of the piezo as between the flex in the bed and the flex of the head mount nothing was consistent.

one of the issues is the cheap bearings used as they have a degree of end float that cant be dealt with so I am going for an over the top solution and will order a set of cheap MGN12 rails.

while I dont expect the quality to be great it will be better than replacing the flawed system of rollers already there and is an easy win to stabilise the bed. Though I expect a fair bit of work to get them running well and fitted true.

is it a worthwhile upgrade? probably not, but I like fettling and it will be a fun project and not any more expensive than replacing the bearings used in it.

that's today's plan anyway - tomorrows may be different!

@deckingman lol its all good, this was a bit of a brain fart thought experiment and not a real world scenario
as always, thank you so much for your assistance

@insertnamehere

interesting, how did you support the bed on the outriggers? same wheels that CR-10 uses with a bracket?

I have given up on these wheels as on closer inspection I have found the bearings have a degree of end float and to be fair these type of bearings are not meant to have any lateral load on them (although as its so low with a 3D printer they get away with it to a degree)

between the flex in the head assembly and the play / flex in the bed mount I cant get any repeatability from the Z axis anywhere other than the center of the bed and even there the flex in the head carriage is an issue.

I have ordered a pile of MGN12 rails and while I wait will start making the brackets and other hardware as there seem to be most of the parts already out there.

it will be interesting to see how these turn out as they were cheap enough that they could be a good fix but with all cheap China copies the quality and amount of work needed will be interesting. many of the reports I have found suggest that with a bit of fettling prior to installation they can be made good and worst case I can mill any hardware if needed.