Topics created by matt3o

@lael hey sorry for the late reply. the forum didn't notify your reply.

They are FYSETC S6 V2.0 today I would probably get a Spider.

@zapta OHMYGOD I need it!

Multiple names on a line are aliases for a single pin. Some pins (primarily heater pins) have an inversion between the processor and the corresponding output, RRF3 will automatically allow for this inversion. These pins are marked with a * after the pin name in the list below. For legacy reasons some Duex pins are inverted or not, depending on the name/alias used to access them. This is indicated with a ! in front of the pin name in the sable below. e.g. exp.heater3 is the same pin as !duex.e2heat the ! indicates that the logic of the pin is inverted when referred to as "duex.e2heat"

@zapta said in Resonance, spreadCycle and stealthChop:

How does this work, did you replace the Duet's firmware with a dumb version that is controlled by the Klipper SBC?

yes, you have to replace the original firmware with Klipper's. I like RRF "all is Gcode" philosophy, but over all I prefer klipper and I don't think I'll revert back, at least for now.

@Phaedrux before the auto-tuning I tried a second time manually to see if values changed. In doing so I believe I've found the problem.

The new values are M307 H1 R2.9 C204.0:102.0 D4.00 S1.00 V24 that are very close to the previous ones and indeed I got a fault again BUT it works perfectly if I remove the second C value.

So it seems that at least the toolboard has some issues with the second cooling time constant, removing it solves the issue (or at least it doesn't trigger the issue).

Remains that the duet should not fault without error.

You can still use the gain parameter A in the M307 command instead of the heating rate R. They are related by R = A/C where C is the cooling time constant.

Sorry for necroposting, but if anyone comes here with a similar problem, the solution is to lower the bed power to 80% or even 60% with the S parameter in your M307.

This should be needed only with rather big print beds and powerful heaters.

@dc42 said in what does M400 exactly do?:

M201 doesn't need to because it is a configuration command so it should not be used within a sequence of moves.

I lower the acceleration during the sensorless homing... is that not recommended?

@matt3o It's already there!! Like magic. 😜

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_M906_Set_motor_currents

@dc42 thanks for swift reply. Is the issue with the other fan related to that?

@CaLviNx said in corexy with bowden on top?:

The pattern you have simulated is usually cased by a resonant frequency of something

Every extruder has a fingerprint, that is the one on your printer. I'm not trying to find the flaw, I was trying to see if the pattern was similar to mine, but it's completely different.

It looks solid enough....

@Phaedrux sure, I'll take some pics later. In the meantime I can show you the 3d model with a few details

Screenshot_20200730_195850.png

Screenshot_20200730_200337.png

Screenshot_20200730_200157.png

It took me a while but I wanted to give a closure to this issue in case someone ends up here from google or forum search.

The following is my current status, printed at 100mm/s with 4500 acceleration.

IMG_20210111_122831.jpg

There are still a few issues that I'm trying to fix, but things are slowly getting better.

This is a corexy, they are heinous machines. Do yourself a favor and build a Cartesian 😄

The bare minimum you need:

super steady frame good vibration abortion study gantry, use metal to hold the gantry if you can, otherwise 3d print big brackets and add more screws than you think it's necessary tight belts don't spare on pulleys and idlers, get good and correctly sized shims between the idlers. I got "precision shims" but they were a little rough on the edges and I had to file all of them after you first assembled the machine, give your screws another go, for some reason they like to loosen up proper part cooling (duh)

I've rebuilt my printer with all of the above in mind, and that helped to reach relatively high speed/acceleration but what really helped with the slant texture is... tune your extruder/hotend.

When the machine is overall well calibrated you are going to see every little defect generated by the extruder/hotend. Even an over-extrusion of 1% or a +2-3°C in temp can generate a bad surface texture.

Try to slice with different slicers (Cura seems a little less finicky) or change from Relative to Absolute (or vice versa) extrusion.

If tests and benchmarks say that your motor is calibrated properly but you still see a slanted texture, don't trust them and start lowering the extrusion multiplier and/or the temperature. You'll be surprised by how much of a difference a 1% does.

If the surface still look bad, try to change the extruder motor. I've been lucky with both 0.9° Nema17 and 1.8° Nema14 from LDO. I had a few issues with moons on the extruder, while they are great on XYZ.

Edit: almost forgot! Align your rails. Get a precision gauge and align your rails. When they are aligned, aligned them again 😄

Hope that helps. Happy printing.

okay so I'm not a complete idiot, it is indeed a bug 🙂

I'm using Wago 221 for everything.

This relieves me from soldering and I can throw out the old fans without working.

thank you for your super fast reply @dc42 . I finally replaced all the spaghetti wiring with a nice and tidy cat6 cable and everything works as expected. All the fans together drain 0.2A at full speed, so that shouldn't be a problem!