Several other forums I am in are either shutting down if based in the UK or planning on banning people from the UK before March 16th 2025 due to the new regulations.
Is it going to affect this forum?
I realize that maybe the other groups are over reacting but the reading I have done so far says this was not well thought out and could be used as a weapon. The groups shutting down say the liability risk was to great for them. Again maybe they are overreacting.
@turtlecrawler If it has been awhile then you may not have had the Meta commands to play with. You can do some fancy coding now.
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcode_meta_commands
@mikeabuilder Yes I return to the original position then issue the M564 H1 S1. Never tested to see what would happen if I did it before then and it sounds from your experience like it is good I did not try.
One thing to make sure of if you do this is your movements do not exceed the limits of the machine. It can make some interesting noises if you do. I reversed one movement by accident as it was being set up.
@turtlecrawler May not be kosher but how I do what you are describing is
M564 H1 S0 ; Allow movement BEYOND X & Y axes boundaries.
M564 H1 S1 ; Restrict movement to within axes boundaries (for normal X & Y movement)
edit, I use H1 as I have already homed X and Y and want to reach the rear of a plus size frame.
Z does not matter since the beam does not move in that direction.
More edits , oh and hi traveler from the Zero G forum I think.
My project from there is done and working well.
But since projects are never really done I bought a frame kit from DLLPDF and am slowly getting it ready for the big move.
@droftarts Wonder if he is using the paneldue controller with the separate LCD option. I had one of those and it too used a SD socket. If he is I remember I had to jumper the card detect signal to get it to work. On mine only the 10 pin ribbon cable was needed.
@dc42 Wish I had read this before I upgraded. Luckily I can flip the flex PEI sheet over and use the other side. I keep telling myself to wait a few weeks before updating.
@NeoDue Interesting, I just did a quick search and apparently Marlin still writes where it is in the print to the SD card. So there will be some wear. With a more modern control board not the prehistoric 8 bit one I tried it with there should not be blobs all over the print. That was ugly.
And something Duet can brag about, that option for Klipper is apparently not mainstream. It's tinkerers doing it. And the one I found seemed to be a variation of Marlins so it writes constantly to the SD card.
A big UPS is probably the best method. I hear the ones in the house and the one out in the shop occasionally chirp. Checking it is a usually a power dip, maybe a tree branch or suicide squirrel as the cause. Mine are good for at least 15 minutes but since most power blips when they do occur are less than a few seconds one large enough to handle the load of the bed heating up is all you should need.
@Phaedrux Ahh so it is not as bad as Marlin version. That one tended to shorten the life of the SD card with the constant writes. I have a large UPS for each of my printers so the only way I would need to worry is if the power was off more than 15 minutes. That long and I'm probably going to be in the dark awhile.
Maybe it is different now but years ago when I tried it on an 8 bit card it also left artifacts on the prints..
@NeoDue True but if power is off more than however long it takes my heated bed to cool resurrecting would be a moot point . Was just reminded of that by the pops from the recent completed print. It sticks perfectly while hot and releases when cool.
@NeoDue It shortens the life of the SD card is why I do not use it. Maybe only a bit but I do know they are only good for a certain number of writes.
@brian As deckinman says the only parts that would need 12V are the fans and the heating elements. Fans you should be able to set the jumpers for or use buck converters but the heating elements need the correct voltage. Since you want to change to a higher hotend heater that is easy. Just buy a 24v 50w or higher wattage heater. And you can keep your original heated bed. Use the original 12v power supply for it and add a heated bed mosfet. That is just an example of one. And wire it in similar to this. I would add a fuse rated slightly higher than the power pulled by the heated bed too. Or spring for a 24v heater and enjoy faster heating times.
@deckingman The new AI controlled CAD program that was announced today should complete the Bambu takeover of the 3D printing industry. It will be seamless, for example you want to print a fuel cap for a 1947 Clinton single cylinder engine tank. First Makerworld will attempt to start the print using existing data from itself. Failing that it will then move to the competing sites and search. If it does not find it Makerworld will then use a Chinese supercomputer to create the desired fuel cap.
Since almost anything created or designed elsewhere is known by their supercomputer it will be able to complete most request. Asking for a model of something frowned upon by authorities though might be a problem. No replicas of the Goddess of Democracy for instance.
Gasp, can you imagine the disruption just these abilities alone will cause to the 3d printing industry? And that is not even taking into account upgrades. For instance it is rumored that the engineers at Bambu are working on a dimensionally transcendental workspace inside the printer. This will enable them to print objects larger than the printer. How they will manage to remove the prints is the sticking point at the moment. Similar to the person who builds a 40 foot sailboat in his basement.
But other upgrades such as the satellite system to communicate between China and your printer will be easier. It will print out the plug and play module that you will then replace the existing control system with.
Some of the latest Bambu innovations though do seem to be incredible. Like the latest one where they have moved beyond touch control to a thought interface. Just look at the printer and think of what you want and it will search through Makerworld for the item and start printing. I heard shortly it will be able to also search through Thingiverse and Printables and import the print into Makerworld and set it up for you by just thinking about what you want. That and the soon to be released replicator tied into the AMS means that it will be able to print models in any filament color and type you desire. Not sure how Duet or any printer manufacture is going to be able to complete.
Just avoid thinking about Stay Puft, that did not go so well for another group.
@deckingman So you spent less than 2 hours to achieve what you feel is perfection. If I remember right your bed is not a flimsy stamped sheet of aluminum . I as one of the crazy ones purchased a cast bed and went to a three motor hydra arrangement. Odd that I am not having issues I suppose.
I do run an initial Z endstop along with finding A and B endstops and that is it. I can sit flipping the power off and on over and over and I am not seeing this motor jumping in different direction issue. Only motor that will run briefly is the hotend fan. And that could be the toolboard booting up that does that. Most who have issues with bed being knocked out of adjustment to me are having it due to multi start lead screws.
I ran a Z tilt then bed mesh a month or so back and when needed can run them again. Not sure of total run time but do know 11+ reels of filament have fed the printer since last level. And it is still printing a perfect initial layer. Maybe I should flip the power switch off and on more?
I did spend time making sure as this printer was built that all measurements were right and it was square. So no playing with the gantry and squaring issues like the first that was created out of an Ender 5 plus. That also had a bed that could and would change shape depending on how hot it was and the air temperature. And that did need frequent leveling until it too went to a cast bed. But even with linear rails I finally was forced to tear it down and rebuild the frame . And finally decrapped it.
I prefer Duet boards because I do not need to add a SBC to them. Thus no need to maintain to me a somewhat fragile ecosystem on a SD-card setup. One that if I were to flip the power off and on again multiple times could do way more harm than simply knocking a stepper out of alignment.. So odds of me ever adding a SBC to the Duets is lsim to none.
@Classified Will depend on who made the stepper motor. Mine an Orbitor V2.0 ( do not depend on this ) has a Moons Nema 14 with Black, Orange as one pair and Red, Blue as the other. And a spare motor is a LDO Nema 14 stepper motor with Yellow, Blue and Red, Green for colors. You will need to figure out who made your stepper, the part number then go to whoever made it and find the information.
Here is the info on the Moon stepper mine has with the wiring colors for the LDO.
Edit, I am assuming you no longer have the wiring in a connector. If you do it will remain the same as before.
@justGuner Left mine run oversight on a print to see if it had any problems and it is doing fine. The workshop is 72°F (22.2°C) Printer is enclosed and inside is warmer. Printing an ASA print the bed is set to 110°C. Print is doing well and no extrusion related artifacts are showing. 7+ hours into the print with 11+ to go.
Paused the print and felt the heatink on the RRF-36 and it feels warm but not what I would be worried about. I was able to hold my finger on it. This one does not have a cover on the toolboard. Have never noticed any issues with another that does have a cover on it.
Is your toolboard covered and or the printer enclosed? Wondering if maybe airflow to the heatsink is reduced on yours. @gloomyandy or @jay_s_uk are the ones who would know how the RRF-36 would act if it were being overheated.
I am running a copy of the Duet 3 mini 5+ rc3 firmware that is 2 weeks old that came from DC42's dropbox. And the RRF-36 rc3 firmware from gloomyandys github.
I can't check what is on DWC because I seem to have lost WiFi connection. So no idea what the RRF-36 or Duet mini 5+ are showing for temperature.
@oliof Those are for the Duet toolboard not the RRF-36. I did update the Duet 3 mini 5+. I am using the firmware in DC42's dropbox.
The RRF-36 on mine seems to be working fine.
; Heaters
M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T98801 B4185 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp0
M950 H0 C"out0" T0 ; create bed heater output on out0 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S125 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 125C
M308 S1 P"124.temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4680 C6.455513e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp0
M950 H1 C"124.out0" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out0 and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S275 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 275C
M308 S2 P"124.temp1" Y"thermistor" A"RRF36 Temperature" T100000 B4092 ; board thermistor
Edit justGuner, did you also update the RRF-36 to rc3? I know on mine when I updated to duet 3.5.0 rc 2 with the RRF-36 on an older beta it was not very happy.
@SamKudarauskas I base that advice of having a more experience person doing it on that voltage can kill if you make contact. And chaffed wiring can cause fires as well as energize frames and such. Done right it does make a reliable and quick heating method
Edit, if you look at Teaching Tech site look at the reply from the person who discuses picking the thermal fuse size. I made that mistake with my first one and picked a fuse I thought was correct and it failed the first time I printed with the bed set to 110C.
@SamKudarauskas Honestly, do not take this wrong but from what I am reading it does not sound like you should be the one doing this. But along with the SSR I would have an 8 amp fuse based on allowing the fuse to be 125% larger than the load. And a thermal fuse mounted to the underside of the bed. Pick one that will open at a higher temperature than you plan on running the bed at. For example if you may run it up to 115C get one that opens at 125c. That is to protect in case the SSR fails closed As well as making sure all parts are properly grounded. When you search look for Line Powered 3d Printer Bed and you might have better luck. Like this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VyFejiKkSQ