@o_lampe

Some of the latest Bambu innovations though do seem to be incredible. Like the latest one where they have moved beyond touch control to a thought interface. Just look at the printer and think of what you want and it will search through Makerworld for the item and start printing. I heard shortly it will be able to also search through Thingiverse and Printables and import the print into Makerworld and set it up for you by just thinking about what you want. That and the soon to be released replicator tied into the AMS means that it will be able to print models in any filament color and type you desire. Not sure how Duet or any printer manufacture is going to be able to complete.

Just avoid thinking about Stay Puft, that did not go so well for another group.

@dc42 Wish I had read this before I upgraded. Luckily I can flip the flex PEI sheet over and use the other side. I keep telling myself to wait a few weeks before updating.

@turtlecrawler If it has been awhile then you may not have had the Meta commands to play with. You can do some fancy coding now.

https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcode_meta_commands

@mikeabuilder Yes I return to the original position then issue the M564 H1 S1. Never tested to see what would happen if I did it before then and it sounds from your experience like it is good I did not try.

One thing to make sure of if you do this is your movements do not exceed the limits of the machine. It can make some interesting noises if you do. I reversed one movement by accident as it was being set up.

@turtlecrawler May not be kosher but how I do what you are describing is

M564 H1 S0 ; Allow movement BEYOND X & Y axes boundaries.

M564 H1 S1 ; Restrict movement to within axes boundaries (for normal X & Y movement)

edit, I use H1 as I have already homed X and Y and want to reach the rear of a plus size frame.
Z does not matter since the beam does not move in that direction.

More edits , oh and hi traveler from the Zero G forum I think.
My project from there is done and working well.
But since projects are never really done I bought a frame kit from DLLPDF and am slowly getting it ready for the big move.

@droftarts Wonder if he is using the paneldue controller with the separate LCD option. I had one of those and it too used a SD socket. If he is I remember I had to jumper the card detect signal to get it to work. On mine only the 10 pin ribbon cable was needed.

@dc42 Wish I had read this before I upgraded. Luckily I can flip the flex PEI sheet over and use the other side. I keep telling myself to wait a few weeks before updating.

@NeoDue Interesting, I just did a quick search and apparently Marlin still writes where it is in the print to the SD card. So there will be some wear. With a more modern control board not the prehistoric 8 bit one I tried it with there should not be blobs all over the print. That was ugly.

And something Duet can brag about, that option for Klipper is apparently not mainstream. It's tinkerers doing it. And the one I found seemed to be a variation of Marlins so it writes constantly to the SD card.

A big UPS is probably the best method. I hear the ones in the house and the one out in the shop occasionally chirp. Checking it is a usually a power dip, maybe a tree branch or suicide squirrel as the cause. Mine are good for at least 15 minutes but since most power blips when they do occur are less than a few seconds one large enough to handle the load of the bed heating up is all you should need.

@Phaedrux Ahh so it is not as bad as Marlin version. That one tended to shorten the life of the SD card with the constant writes. I have a large UPS for each of my printers so the only way I would need to worry is if the power was off more than 15 minutes. That long and I'm probably going to be in the dark awhile.

Maybe it is different now but years ago when I tried it on an 8 bit card it also left artifacts on the prints..

@NeoDue True but if power is off more than however long it takes my heated bed to cool resurrecting would be a moot point . Was just reminded of that by the pops from the recent completed print. It sticks perfectly while hot and releases when cool.

@NeoDue It shortens the life of the SD card is why I do not use it. Maybe only a bit but I do know they are only good for a certain number of writes.

@brian As deckinman says the only parts that would need 12V are the fans and the heating elements. Fans you should be able to set the jumpers for or use buck converters but the heating elements need the correct voltage. Since you want to change to a higher hotend heater that is easy. Just buy a 24v 50w or higher wattage heater. And you can keep your original heated bed. Use the original 12v power supply for it and add a heated bed mosfet. That is just an example of one. And wire it in similar to this. I would add a fuse rated slightly higher than the power pulled by the heated bed too. Or spring for a 24v heater and enjoy faster heating times.