Topics created by dmkmedia

@dmkmedia said in my delta printer seems to have a mind of its own:

They are not fitted as they would not fit to the carriages so I printed one with the measurements on the site with one that would fit

As others have said, it's almost certainly the source of the tilt and you must fix this before going any further. the rod pairs need to be absolutely parallel for the effector to stay level. One of the clever aspects of the Smart Effector design was in using the excellent precision of a manufactured PCB to ensure that the Mag ball holes are perfectly spaced.

If you are getting false readings from the strain gauge on the Smart Effector, that's going to prevent auto calibration from working. Worth double-checking crimps and any other connections, just in case you are getting an intermittent connection fault.

For now, I'd concentrate on the tilt issue. If you can take a clear photo of your carriage mounts, maybe someone can offer advice on how to get the PCB adaptor to fit.

adavidm

@dmkmedia said in prints coming out slightly too small delta printer:

@dc42 said in prints coming out slightly too small delta printer:

M579

ok so if i am 4mm too big X and 1mm too big in Y
how should the M579 Look

That depends on how long the print was in X and Y. If it was 100mm in both directions, you would need:

M579 X0.96 Y0.99

It kind of looks like it was warping a bit. Is that the case?

What firmware version?

If you reprint it, does it do the same thing?

The M208 S1 Z parameter sets the minimum permitted Z.

It looks to me like uneven microstepping. What is the layer height, and what is the distance between the gaps? What is the rated current of the motors, and what motor current have you set?

thanks that worked

@dmkmedia said in heated bed not turning on:

yes it is i just fitted a new board i had spare and it all works now

In that case, please ask your supplier to replace the other one under warranty. If you bought it direct from duet3d.com, see https://www.duet3d.com/warranty.

Your rod length and/or delta radius in the M665 command is a long way out. Set the rod length correctly, then calibrate the delta radius. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer.

See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer#Section_Commissioning. It's also a good idea to reduce the motor currents during testing, to minimise damage if you get a head crash.

On a delta the homing switches are fitted at the top of each tower.

Check that the print cooling fan is connected the right way round. The problem could also be a bad crimp connection.

Yes. The left tower motor should be X, the right tower motor should be Y, and the back tower motor should be Z. Same for the homing switches (endstops).

See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareDeltaPrinter and https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer.

No I haven't, and no time to do one at present.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_up_to_resume_a_print_after_a_power_failure

Those are a lot better. You have mostly sorted out the X axis because it is just slightly low on the right hand side. However, the bed and the Y axis are still not parallel to each other

so im moving manual with code to X0 Y0 And then setting the position manually
not sure if i need
G90 ; back to absolute mode

at the bottom

+1 for using slightly more retraction both greater length and faster (but don't overdo it on all metal hotends, when using PLA). +1 for lowering nozzle temp (its a balance as you need enough for good filament flow and good interlayer bonding, but too much increases stringing, blobbing and charring all undesirable).

I would also add increasing travel (non-printing) speed, you want your travel speed to be as close to as fast as your machine can go for the speed you want to print at, as it allows less time for filament to ooze and therefore string, it makes strings finer, and sometimes eliminates them by breaking them before they form.

Also look into pressure advance, Ian is a great expert on it, it does slightly complicate retraction tuning, so tune temperature first, then retraction, then travel speed, then finally pressure advance (sometimes dialling retraction back a bit in the process)

Depending on material a light go over with a heat gun or even very briefly with a small blowtorch, removes strings very nicely.

Hmmm, having looked at your first screen shot, I'm a bit confused too.

On my versions of Slic3R (all of them), at the top, I have from left to right File, Plater, Object, Window, View, and Help. Under that I have Plater, Print Settings, Filament Settings, and Printer Settings. I'm not seeing those same items on your screen shot. Maybe you have installed some sort of cut down version of Slic3R ?

Anyway, without a plater tab, how are you managing to add an object to the plater? However you have managed to achieve that, can you then right click on it to bring up a menu?

Edit. Maybe try a fresh install of slic3r https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases

As DjDemonD says. If you want to add an additional thermistor, connect it between your chosen thermistor input on the expansion connector and VSSA. Connect a 4k7 1% reference resistor between the thermistor input and ADVREF.