Topics created by Corexy

@deckingman

Hi Ian, how you been old fella?

The cameras are for my rural property, which has no power. My home where I live (and print) not only has power, we also have internet and hot running water. It's amazing all the shit we're getting these days!

Just winding you up... We've just had a few issues on the farm recently with trespassers and thieving, and even a crazy bloody real estate agent coming on the place and leaving me notes. It's time to catch them in the act!

I share your fears about the border. This "covid thing" is like a blank check for pollies, and don't even get me started on the media coverage. It's like everyone caught Stockholm syndrome rather than covid.

@corexy Looking closer at your screen shot it appears to be trying to list more remembered networks than is possible to view on a single line on PanelDue. If you connect via USB terminal it may show them all. What I think might be happening is it's trying to connect to a network that's no longer available?

Sure fire way is to clear all remembered networks and then add the one you want to use now.

M588 S"*" to forget all.

@Corexy said in PID Controlled Heated Bed:

M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 149.3, time constant 841.4, dead time 0.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 23.6, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P2289.7, I119.068, D704.4 Computed PID parameters for load change:

M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 589.7, time constant 308.5, dead time 4.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 23.9, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P21.0, I0.568, D65.4 Computed PID parameters for load change: P21.

Or............ A=gain, C= time Constant, D=Dead Time and optionally, S = PWM V=voltage. So M307 for heater 1 would be
M307 H1 A589.7 C308.5 D4.4 S1.0 V23.9 B0

@Corexy
yes, the smaller bodies seem to have a closer trigger range, which might be a big deal but i wanted a good safety margin.

@deckingman said in Corexy homing/endstops:

@Corexy Personally, I think that some peoples problems might be of their own making, but it's just a hunch. You can distort tooling plate if the frame you fix it too is bent.

Especially with 4 leveling screws...

Wow, that's brutal!

Never mind. I've got all manner of bits coming and an E3D PT100 here as well.

I feel that 350C would be as high as I'll be going possibly for PC.

@omni said in Mosquito hot end...yes or no?:

With Mosquito, swapping nozzles is a breeze and I do it every other day now...

Do you use their 1.5Nm torque wrench?

Do you preheat the nozzle before you replace?

@Corexy said in Extruder Stepper Choice:

@deckingman said in Extruder Stepper Choice:

@Corexy Ref the BMG/Mosquito combo, be aware that you need the BMG-M, not the standard BMG which has an E3D type groove mount.

Yep, I am aware of that but thanks for the reminder.

I just don't like that E3D mounting groove. It's a pain in the arse in fact.

Totally agree about the groove mount.

@deckingman

I agree 100%

As it goes, I'd gotten my wires crossed...literally.

It turns out that the 2 center wires need to be reversed in the stepper motor plug on the wiring loom for the Bondtech BMG extruder pancake stepper to work.

While I did pull the plug with the power on, it was after the print had finished so I'm assuming the stepper was powered down anyway.

On top of that, when I tried the original stepper again it didn't work due to the fact that the hot end had cooled down, therefore not allowing the extruder stepper to activate. It was late at night and I'd just plain forgot about heating the hot end.

The next day I checked the steppers with a multimeter and realized the difference in the 2 motors, swapped the wires and heated up the hot end, and now it's all good.

Very good in fact. My first try of the Bondtech, and I'm quite impressed with it.

Cheers Jason,

Sounds like an "another time" job lol

Lol...

So what you blokes are saying, is that it will get within 30 seconds of my house almost instantly, only to be ballsed up for weeks at that point?

Oh well... at least my tracking number will tell me about it.

Yes mate, my old eyes could use some assistance too! I'm on my first set of reading glasses.

I've got it about the variation due to Z wobble etc, but to be honest I'm not convinced a set of hobby verniers squeezing a couple of tiny layers will give an accurate reading. You can get varying results just pushing the verniers a little more firmly.

It's funny that you got 1.05 when S3D would suggest 0.9 for PLA, but I just ran it at 1.0 myself with the esteps calibrated correctly.

I just pulled out a roll of ABS that I've really had tuned in and used Trhuster's method/models, and the line between walls just disappears at 0.99. Now I'm printing his second model at 100% infill as he suggests, and I might be wanting to drop 1% more possibly, but I'll wait till the print finishes.

I've seen a few reviews where they criticized the use of verniers (including Toms guide), and I'm incline to think that while they would be fine on dimensional models like cubes, a micrometer (on the top couple of layers) would be more accurate with its flat/larger surfaces.

I never have any problems with vertical layers, my machine is very finely adjusted mechanically. It's just top surfaces that I'd like to look better.

Mind you I am pretty fussy.

What's that black fleck through your PLA?? Is that meant to be there? I'm wondering if you don't need a bit of a hot end clean?

@Corexy It's surprisingly useful sometimes to have a finger that size and shape, but I'll leave that to your imagination......

It kind of matches the lump on the back of my other hand caused by a badly set "boxers fracture" but I won't be explaining how I got that either.........

@Corexy Exactly as @sebkritikel says. As it says here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_G29_Mesh_bed_probe
G29 or G29 S0 - Probe the bed, save the height map in a file on the SD card, and activate bed compensation. The height map is stored in file is /sys/heightmap.csv.
G29 S1 - Load the height map from file and activate bed compensation. The default filename is as for S0 but a different filename an be specified using the P parameter.

Add it to any script AFTER Z has been zeroed. If you do it before, it will generate an error that the heightmap has been loaded without the Z datum being set.

Ian

This is the script I use, it puts a little glob to prime extruder on front edge of bed before beginning print.

G32
G1 X30 Y30 F9000 ;Go to purge start position
G1 Z0.3 ;Drop to bed
G92 E0 ;Reset E position
G1 X50 E20 F2000 ;Draw purge line
G1 X200 F4200 ;Wipe out
G92 E0 ;Reset E position

@Phaedrux

I'm just messing with it now actually.

One problem I'm having is that the latest version of S3D no longer seems to listen to my requests to put the start point in the middle of a straight run. I've entered the coordinates for a start point, but it's just starting at the nearest corner.

I'm printing a 100mm cylinder, as that will allow me to put the start point where I want. Is that acceptable? (edit: best PA for this was 0.07).

*I'm back on benchy's now...they behave much differently with PA on than the test cylinder, and I've gone back to my original slicer settings with no PA, just so I can print a nice control sample with best possible bridging. Then I'll turn of all coasting etc and ease up the PA again.

@Corexy said in Home all not working:

"attempt to read a gcode unsigned array that is too long M84 P3 E0:1" was occurring when I used the emergency stop. For some reason it's not doing it today...

That message was generated because E0:1 says you want to work on extruder drives 0 and 1, but in your M584 command in config.g you only define one extruder.

M84 seemed to do nothing at all, other than to make all my axis's "unhomed".

M84 by itself disables all stepper drivers. This has the side effect of marking axes as not homed.

M98 PCONFIG.G I got the following message:

Warning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 917C.

That is a common problem. It means that your heater cartridge is over-powered for your extruder, assuming your printer has an ordinary FDM hot end with an aluminium heater block (which will melt at about 660C).

I'd call the extruder issue resolved, and I'll start anew with my tuning issues in the tuning and tweaking section.

Thanks for the help Phaedrux, appreciated

Thanks very much for taking the time to type all that.

I did pull it down, and there was a sign of impact on the probe.

As it goes, the spare I had on hand was the new type. I bolted it up, set the nozzle height (which was exactly the same as the old one), and it's away and printing.

I'm very much out of my depth with the programming on this thing, but my wiring and build has been solid, as this thing's been an absolute workhorse for almost 3 years.

I actually bought 2 sets of gear (I have 3 more dead Zortrax's sitting there), and have never bothered fitting up the second.

I'm going to have to bite the bullet and try and update the firmware though I guess...take a deep breath David! We know how that's gone every time, lol.