Best posts made by CNCModeller

Re: My eagle has landed...

Hi All, thought an update was in order, my eagle print is ready to roll. Have a look here if you're interested!

https://youtu.be/j4rwMDxzSJs

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Hi All,
Thought the community might be interested in my largest print to date. The polar printer is really getting there now. Feel free to comment on the video via YT, it'll help get my channel back up and running too!

Anyway seasons greetings one and all!

All the best
Barry M

https://youtu.be/mLz1vDJkfgs

Well I thought the community might like to see this... I'm really pleased as the printer is really starting to fulfill its intended purpose!

Spent the day sanding seams and getting ready for a coat of fibreglass

Hi Folks,
This is my polar printer, it's down for a bed bearing upgrade at the moment, but she's definitely running and the duet's working a treat.

Working volume is 570mm diameter by 1150mm tall.

Here's some footage of her in action...

https://youtu.be/nvOLMP2IJIU

The YouTube playlist for the build so far is here:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWjZVEdMv1BY82izahK45qKh-hp3NFkix

My channel is www.YouTube.com/CNCModellerUK

I'm hoping to come to TCT so will drop by the stall. If you want some better pictures just let me know!

Cheers
Barry M

@too you could put M98 P"LayerChange.g" in your slicer layer change settings, and create a LayerChange.g macro to define the behaviour locally.

At least that would mean you could change that behaviour globally without having to re-slice your code.

Hi All,
Had to share this... So happy lol.

Lower tower test print was pre upgrade, current print is after upgrading.

VID_20210602_175413.mp4

Night and Day!

Hi Folks,
Well don't you just love it when a plan comes together!

The D4S is now operational and I'm running through retraction and PA test prints. Just the inevitable tinkering and tuning to go.

Duet2 with a Thermocouple daughter board to take the OEM K type sensors, 12864 display. Waiting for a 5v supply so I can disable the electronics cooling fans when a print is finished by turning off the power supply. Water cooling is triggered by nozzle heater block temps. OEM heated bed works fine once I figured out the wiring.

Just ordered a couple of refurbished Duet2 boards for my D5S and laser cutter, that should keep me busy over the winter months!

All the Best
Barry M

Just finished my motorised adjustable bed for the K40 laser cutter, possibly one of my longest projects ever, 10 years since I bought the first bits!

Just feel the need to share

Happy days!
Barry M

@TrafficViolation personally I'd do this in hardware, on my K40 I have a switch on the lid that breaks the circuit to the "water safeguard" input, I've also got this wired in series to a manual switch on the control panel so I can force the laser to be off all the time.

All the best
Barry M

@jay_s_uk said in Coming soon: Accelerometer Support:

@nuramori on klipper its a run once and remove from the system thing until you change something.
not sure if it will be used in the same way here or not

My understanding is also that it's a run once to characterise the resonance of the printer.

Input shaping is an open loop approach as far as I understand.

However, the accelerometer needs to be rigidly secured to the print head to accurately measure the printers characteristics so a dedicated mount IMO is a good idea.

That's not to say we won't find other uses for an accelerometer in the the future of course!!

@zapta

Snap! Great minds... Lol.

Now I've got multiple power supplies and the new one is running 48v max 10A I thought it was time to get a proper safety switch included.

Do I get extra credit for the printed back box for the BRB?

Hi All,
Is there any way to change the colours of the DWC background or the header to make it cleared which machine I'm looking at?

I'm now running 3 printers and a laser sometimes concurrently and TBH I've hit cancel on the wrong machine more than once!! When I was just running 2 machines I simply had one set to dark mode and one set to normal.

Any constructive thoughts would be much appreciated!!!

Many thanks
Barry M

@o_lampe said in Best / Largest Print to date...:

Kudos for your pioneer work, but if I had to print tall objects, I'd go for a Delta. Because they're easier to align and they don't know about singularities in bed center.

Thanks for the kudos, my issue with Delta is how tall they are for the print height. I wanted something that'll fit in a domestic setting i.e. 600mm wide doorways and lower ceilings, and since I'm mostly printing hollow things the singularity isn't much of an issue for me.

It's the print volume to printer volume ratio that sold me on polar. Plus what engineer doesn't relish the opportunity to figure something cool out from almost scratch lol.

Enjoy your fudge lol.

All the best
Barry M

Hi All,
I've be playing with odrive and more recently simpleFOC which is more appealing as I can develop the control firmware as it's Arduino based.

Either can be configured as a closed loop servo with step and direction inputs.

Given I have full control of the simpleFOC Arduino board in terms of defining interfaces could I use a CAN interface daughter board to more closely integrate the driver or perhaps provide position feedback to the parent duet board over another interface?

Just thinking out loud for now. But my upcoming mill and lathe conversions may go this route if it's practical to do so.

Any constructive thoughts would be much appreciated.

Many thanks
Barry M

Hi All,
So I thought the community might be interested I got a pre-order Bondtech CHT Nozzle at great expense from 3DJake last weekend, and surprisingly it seems to be worth it.

However I am running it in a unorthodox setup. I've kept my volcano heat block and turned down a volcano nozzle shaft to fill the gap between the heat break and the CHT. After some initial leaking which was cured by tightening the heat break while hot, I can confirm much better flow rates. This is assessed anecdotally as I can print faster without gaps appearing in thin walls.

I've now got some accurate miniature scales so will try and do some flow rate testing over the weekend.

Anyway hopefully the feedback is useful.

All the best
Barry M

I've been using this double wall plastic, the link is just an example I'm pretty sure you can buy sheets at places like Wicks or B&Q in the UK.

10mm Polycarbonate Roofing Sheet Clear Various Size 10 Year Warranty UV Protection (Width:1.20m x Length:0.60m) for Greenhouse Canopy Carport Cold (ONLY Available Mainland UK)

https://amzn.eu/d/gabTvvE

It's fairly rigid, a relatively good insulator and if you slide a piece of wood or plastic into the cells relatively easy to fix to. I believe you can also get them in various colours too.

@toddwagner there is a can bus address reset jumper at the rear of the two rj11 sockets so you can reset the ID to default. See commissioning in the link below.

https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_3_family/Duet_3_Expansion_1HCL

Hopefully that will get you back to basics!

Sounds like a really interesting service.

I think it'd be a good investment in terms of the subscription when I'm in production mode, and the free license would be possibly enough for now and then small hobby printers.

https://printpal.io/printwatch/

Definitely going to keep up with developments and give it a try on my printers once they're back together again after the current round of upgrades.

@pietorque
Have you considered a duet3 + tool daughter board over can bus? Might make it all a duet based drop in solution for you.

Hi All,
Can anyone recommend a link to a good article on what input shaping is and what print features it addresses? I'm assuming it's about removing excitation of the printers structural modes from the demand, but I guess there are more subtle nuances too.

Edit: I assume this is the accelerometer mentioned.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232427148679

Many thanks
Barry M