Provide links to your config.g (and other .g files like homeing, bed etc, if they are relavant to the issue). These files can be attached to the forum post using the "Upload File" button: Upload File icon or the text can be posted within code tags, using the "Code" button: Code icon
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5909/guide-for-posting-requests-for-help
@droftarts
Thank you for the correction. I grabbed the pic from the current doc.
@ErlerPrint3D said in Read Voltage from Heatbed Power IN:
M308 S18
Ths sounds like what you need.
Bnnn The temperature or other value when the ADC output is zero
Cnnn The temperature or other value when the ADC output is full scale
Reference:
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m308-set-or-report-sensor-parameters
Additional parameters for linear analog sensors
Fn F0 = unfiltered (fast response), F1 = filtered (slower response, but noise reduced and ADC oversampling used to increase resolution). F1 is only available when using a port intended for thermistors, not when using a general input port.
Bnnn The temperature or other value when the ADC output is zero
Cnnn The temperature or other value when the ADC output is full scale
@KeithW I set the bed and hotend temperature when I start up the printer. I run calibration and print. Only need to calibrate once.
@KeithW set the hotend temperature to below the oozing point. I typically use 160c for PLA.
@oldironjunkie I bought the BQ extruders for the same reasons you stated. I bought the BQ revo for about 100 bucks. I think it was 105 landed from China and I believe I paid 160 for the Revo XS. You are correct for the right price its more attractive, but at its regular price there’s not much of a difference.
if you can buy one on Amazon, when you receive the new one, pack up the defective one and return it to amazon. Make sure when you buy it. it’s marked as shipped from Amazon (better if it’s shipped and sold from Amazon (not a third-party seller))
@oldironjunkie depending on what you paid for the BQ revo, typically the E3D original is not much difference in cost and I believe a better product.
Like I mentioned, everything from the far east is questionable, so always check thoroughly every part. I dismantled the thing completely and did a once over. This conversation had got me thinking, from now on I’m testing parts on a cheap board first.
If you can return it, that would be the best choice. If not, hopefully you can get a good working unit.
I’ve had success with the BQ Revo and original BQ V2 (using the E3D hot end parts).
Certain components are worth spending the extra dough for. It seems counterproductive to pair a duet board with subpar components.
A short to ground error is never good, recheck wiring, test the board with known good motor and cable. Change only one item at a time to limit variables while diagnosing.
Test the coils on the V2S without the cable plugged in, if you are measuring across the correct pin pairs (or pair of pins for each coil) then the resistance measurement should be the same on both coils.
I checked the one I have and both coils measure about same 3.6-3.7 ohms. I believe I had to swap pins around on the motor side, not sure. I uploaded a pic of connections/colors/pairs I am using. Hopefully this helps. The motor you have may not match exactly, consistency with parts from the far east is always suspect.
Take a look at the document on connecring z probe under BLtouch
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_connecting
There is a link to the BLtouch troubleshooting as well.
@dgrat
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_mesh_bed
Partway down under the heading:
Running bed mesh compensation
Establish a Z=0 datum
Another E3D blog post - 9/28/21
https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/rapidchangerevo
Using an external MOSFET would be a better choice.
Based on the table
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/Thermistor_table
the matching thermistor part number is 104NT-4-R025H42G
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/362/P18-NT-Thermistor-1535133.pdf
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/2.)+Wiring+your+Duet+2+WiFi-Ethernet/9
Top right corner of the DUET board in the image shows jumper placement.
I found this in the endstop documentation not sure if it applies.
If using RepRapFirmware 3, invert the polarity by putting a ! character in front of the pin name.
@FelixH I use 3mm - 30mm/s for PLA as a general starting point, it works well for me (V6 or Volcano). I rarely need to change the values. Some PLA requires some tweaking as well as other material types.
Retraction is somthing you need to “dial in” to find the best results.
Regarding PTFE lined hotends, the only time I had issues with filament travel and jams is with PTFE lined hotends/heatbreaks. I can’t rule out user error it’s always possible but with the all metal hotends the only time I’ve had an issue is when I neglected to plug it the hotend fan after making a hardware change.
@FelixH My apologies, when I said extruder I meant filament drive.
The hotend assembly you are describing is top notch. I would stay away from any teflon lined hotend (heat break). I only use all metal hotends.
@FelixH if you’re using the stock extruder that may be part of the issue. Extruder calibration may also help. If that’s done you may want to try printing at 95% extrusion (set in DWC).
Slicer settings may also help, like align the seams/layer start point.
