I finally have my delta running well. I designed my own version of the DC42 Smart-Effector linear rail adapters and a flying-extruder. It is working pretty good now.
Re the SW...DC42 and all the guys who made it work, while it is a really old version, however, I love this software. You guys really did a great job. It is cool.
Thanks for all the good work.
3mm
My 'AnyCubic kossel Linear Plus' if it can actually be called that in its current state of existence, is finally printing. Heck...its only been 18 months since I first fabricated it (was a fully disassembled kit) until now.. I did not work on it continuously, but when I did, I expended weeks. I must admit as a kit it was really fun to build, but the fun part evaporated as I began to attempt to calibrate it to be usable. I won't bore y'all with the gorey details other than to suffice to say, that, the only parts that remain in the printer that are original parts are the 2020 T-Slot profile frame, the belts, the motors and the filament extruder, everything else has been replaced, including all the wire.
3mm's Delta Printer is comprised of,
1x DUET3D EtherNet V1.02 ARM controller board (excellent)
1x PanelDUE 7inch/177,8mm LCD touch panel (excellent)
1x Escher Smart-Effector (excellent)
6x Huntly-Hayden diagonal mag-ball rods (very good)
1x 350W 12Vdc MeanWell Switching PowerSupply (ok)
1x SRD-D100A DC-DC SSR relay (Auber Inst) (good quality)
1x E3D-V6 (authentic...not a clone) HotEnd (very good)
1x aluminum/PCB 180W heat-bed (eBay, no name)
2x printed DC42 designed print-cooler assemblies (my stuff, could be better)
It works. I think it needs a bit of tunning and I definitely require better quality filament, and a whole bunch more experience.
Thanks to all here who aided me in this joint project. Thank you.
3mm
ps, I gotta fix my TS440S/AT 100W Kenwood Ham transceiver in time for the world-wide ARRL (June 23) Amateur Radio Relay League Ham-Field Day coming up. I'll be back...
@phaedrux and All,
Interesting 'intro' post by our late friend Danal.
See: https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/community-meet-greet/hi-from-texas-danal-estes/td-p/7459955
3mm
Hi, I appreciated your inputs to my questions.
However, and that photo you posted is certainly one that is familiar to me.
: ))
Maybe its a British thing? I've noticed that many folks don't know the technical name for those bearings. They were, according to WikiPedia, invented in Germany and were originally known as being "Heim-Joints", however and there was another popular for them which I seem to have forgotten over the years. When I was doing US Military robotics engineering, they were known as "rod-end bearings". You screw'm into a plate, put a rotating shaft in them, supporting the shaft periodically along its length and turn stuff. American vendors such as McMaster-Carr and Stock Drive/SP, and in their catalogs name these mechanical components as being rod-end bearings. However the REBs are typically SAE rather than (my preference) metric. Folks get confused, the Chinese call them 'fish-eyes', ball-arms and all sorts of other monikers. But their technical name here in the US is, "rod-end' bearings. The units on that effector in the photo appear to be much better quality than those that I received in my kit. I know that you got your's running. I tip my hat.
Cheers
3mm
@p1ngb4ck said in Need help : MagBalls+Smart-Effector for AC LinearKosselPlus:
Hello everybody
I could use some assistance, regarding a modified Anycubic Linear Kossel Plus Delta, that I bought in used, modified state. It already has a Duet2 Maestro and I have been able to print with it already (went through the very informative Guides).
Now I would to upgrade to Haydn Huntleys MagBallArms and Smart-Effector, the printer currently still uses stock rods, rod-ends and effector(with hotend). Also : is there anything that would speak against using a volcano hotend with the smart-effector ?
Are there any users, who have done the same and could provide exact info regarding required rod-length, correct rod-spacing etc. and good stls to mount proper radial fans and 40mm cold-end fans?BTW : duet3d.com down?
Best regards & thx in advance, Oliver
Hi, I too have a ALKP delta. On mine the only parts remaining are the 2020 profiles, linear rails + linear slide bearings, motors and the belts. Everything else I have replaced including the undersized wire that was shipped with my printer.
My AnyPubic Linear Crapper printer's current physical configuration is:
DUET-EtherNet V1.02 controller (excellent) (TriGorilla brd caught fire & burned after 1 week of usage, vendor said was my fault)
SmartEffector + E3D-V6 HotEnd (excellent) (original HotEnd constantly jammed)
7inch PanelDue (useful)
288.13 mm Hayden diagonal rods & magballs (excellent) (original 12 rod-end bearings were sloppy loose; diagonal rods were different lengths)
450W SSR for switching heatbed (bed was not shipped with my printer, I bought it from different vendor)
350W 'LED' switching 12Vdc power-supply (replaced tiny power supply)
Opto Interrupter endstops (replaced original micro-switches end-stops that switched at different positions, randomly)
top & botom metal corner vertex (original injected molded corners were mishaped)
soon to be mounted (when arrives) BondTech BGM 1.75mm Bowden tube extruder + PanCake 0.9º stepper motor
As I have said before, the AKLP as shipped to me was fun to build but that is where the fun stopped. As designed and delivered to me, the printer was incapable of printing as it was uncalibratable. I have an e-mail from AnyCubic factory, that states, "buy our new model, it fixes all the problems you are having!!" I kid you not.
Regarding your bed size, measure it then make your calculations.
I have a minor printing artifact that I am working to resolve, beyond that my homebrew AnyPubic is working great now! Get the Haydens, you'll like'm. I don't know about the E3D Volcano, but the V6 I have works well in my opinion.
Good luck.
3mm
Hi,
There could another reason aside from hardware.
I was pulling my hair out trying to discover what was causing sudden dips in the temperature while printing the 20x20x20 test cube model. I wrote the forum about the problem 4 or 5 months ago prior to a 3 month hospital stay.
The problem, apparently, turned out to be caused by additional temperature codes that were generated by slic3r. That program for some unknown reason inserted (174) additional codes that increased the hotend temperature by 10°C or more from the starting PLA temperature of 210°C. The inserted code was 'M104'.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M104_Set_Extruder_Temperature
"Example: M104 S190"
Set the temperature of the current extruder to 190°C and return control to the host immediately (i.e. before that temperature has been reached by the extruder)."
My Printed Solid "Daily PLA" filament temperature (200°C ~ 220°C), I had set it for 210°C, but because the slic3r code periodically changed the the temp to 220°C or higher, apparently caused the 'program' to throw a heat fault, which paused the printing. It seems, that the heat rise period was taking too long which threw the fault! There could another reason for this? Such as perhaps the print-fan running too fast thereby causing the temperature of the heat block to slowly rise?
Removing the (174) additional M104 codes seemed to fix the problem. I seriously thought that the DUET-E controller had failed.
My hacked up AnyCubic Linear + delta printer now has what may be a vibration problem, I think?, as there is a recurrent 'lump' printed on one side of the test cube. However, beyond that issue, the printer appears to be working very well. No more faults!!
Lots of fiddling...hope this helps..
3mm
Hi, I'm sorry you think that I was chastising you, trust me I wasn't. However, the reason I gave the explanation I gave, was, and is in my opinion, that the Smart-Effector was in fact designed for mag-ball integration, and that the reason that they were not used is because of the points I cited. Was I mistaken? Without a custom adapter plate at the top, won't the mag-ball centers be wider than at the bottom? From what I've read on the 'Net, that's a big no-no and I presumed that's the obvious reason mag-ball arms were not employed (aside from the added cost), even though the Smart-Effector was designed to use them. I was not trying to be rude, and I apologize. I am sorry.
3mm
ps.. 'Fish-eyes' vernacular is ok with me, I just thought maybe I could dispel a bit of the confusion I hear on the 'Net re; their authentic moniker.
Pardon me for butting in, however, I solved that problem with my BMG BondTech direct drive extruder on my AnyPubic delta, by designing and printing a nifty problem solving flying-extruder platform supported by soft surgical tubing. I looked each of the direct-drive extruders you cited, I speculate that they are all roughly the same size and weight of of my BMG BondTech. There is no tilt or weight added to my Smart-Effector. I am very happy with the arrangement I fabricated. Not what you'd like to see, but it is certainly a doable work-around.
Eventually I'll get off my lazy butt to upload the details along with oScad design files so others can hack it up as they choose.
3mm
3mm 9 Dec 2018, 19:07
Thanks for the reply...
My setup:
DUET-E (EtherNet) HW: V1.02
DUET-E FW: DuetEthernetFirmware-1.18.1
Panel DUET FW: 1.20 (15b1)
Smart Effector: E3D HotEnd + Silicon Sock
350W Switching Power Supply.
I have printed several objects recently, which were relatively flawless and without any hot-end heater faults being thrown. Last night, I put in some new PLA filament (Printed Solid brand, "Daily", turned off both fans, and heat bed, dialed in 210°C on the E3D hot-end and about halfway (145°C), it threw a heater fault, emitting something like, "Temperature rising too slowly, etc". I ran the heater fault reset, attempted to attain target temperature again, and it threw a faul again.
The Vin display on the WebControl is depicting 11.3Vdc, yet using my 5 digit Fluke lab DVM, measuring directly on the input Voltage terminals, shows 12.1Vdc. Something seems amiss there? I presume that there is a reference source somewhere for the ADC, perhaps that might be cause of these apparently random heater-faults? I've been trying to find the cause for these for a long time. It comes and goes. I've checked all my wiring, I've done pull tests on the connectors, I use 'bootlace' wire terminators. In my mind the problem behaves as a intermittent controller. In addition to throwing heater faults, the controller frequently disconnects, yet there are only two devices on the network, the pc and the DUET-E controller, aside from the switch, and its a pass-through switch.
Got any suggestions?
thanks
3mm,
ps the above post, was posted when I pressed the space-bar, which caused the edit to post?? I can't find the 'edit' after post function on this bulletin-board? Does it have that feature?
Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet
Firmware Electronics: Duet Ethernet 1.02
Firmware Version: 1.21 (2018-03-21)
Web Interface Version: 1.21
Editing 0:/sys/heightmap.csv
RepRapFirmware height map file v2 generated at 2019-00-13 14:24, mean error 0.035, deviation 0.039
FYI
Yeah..those are nice cable assemblies, the first is almost a meter long.
I like make my own cables...I used a "Dupont" crimping tool I bought on eBay for my distributed UFO Data collection network that I'm developing. I used the crimpter to fabricate my DUET3D & SE (Smart Effector) cables. It works great for crimping those MicroMate pins...
USa eBay product title, "Dupont Pin Crimping Tool 2.54mm 3.96mm KF2510 28-18AWG Crimper - US Ship" ~$18 bucks.
eBay Item Nr: 271236300179
Thanks for your advice, much appreciated.
3mm
Los Angeles, Ca, USa
Hi,
Current capacity is different for single strand and for multi-strand wire. Current carrying capacity is also mitigated by how much heat the insulation covering the wire can endure before breakdown. I personally perfer to use PTFE 'Teflon' insulated silver plated copper multi-stranded wire for everything I wire. It gives a high-tech appearance, carries a higher current with less weight, it solders wonderfully, and takes years to oxidize but it is more expensive. There are vendors on eBay who supply this type insulated multi-strand wire via surplus sources.
Included below is a useful( PVC) wire gauge/capacity table for determining basic current carrying capacity derived from the circular mil diameters of individual unplated copper strands. Sounds complicated, but its actually not, however, it is an engineering strategy to determine the correct wire gauge size for a specific current requirement.
A PVC insulated wire, circular mil table is listed here:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
Same size wire (circular mils) carries different current depending upon insulation covering, PVC for instance does not carry as
much current because the insulation will breakdown at lower wire temperature, while PTFE 'Teflon' insulated wire can carry more current because the insulation breaks-down at much higher wire temperature.
For PTFE silver plated copper wire, my favorite wire, can be found below, although there are also many other vendors around, (incidentally I am not affiliated with any of these other than I buy wire from them occassionally).
Here is a source for Mil-Spec Wire (PTFE) 'Teflon' Stranded Silver Plated Copper which I use:
eBay vendor: "SkipMalley", has many different (all surplus) gauge sizes and colors,
enter this number
for 20Ga: "292417410713" via eBay search field
or
for 16Ga: "291102551795" via eBay search field
For Alpha 5858 PTFE Wire information, see page 11,
http://www.alphawire.com/~/media/Files/Brochures/AL_1998_HUWbro_web.pdf
Here is a useful current capacity and Voltage drop calculator:
http://wiresizecalculator.net/calculators/voltagedrop.htm
Please don't make the mistake of using only one color wire for power wires, use at least two different colors. It is both useful and wise to create an accurate drawing of your wiring configuration, (a little picture of your SSR showing the color of the wires and where they are routed to and from, relying of DC42's layout drawings of the controller board for the other end reference locations, etc) and put the drawing in your printer document drawer for future reference.
Good luck (and please, don't burn down your house),
3mm
Hello All,
My delta began life as an "AnyCubic Kossel Linear Plus" printer, kit. It arrived fully disassembled in a big cardboard and styrofoam segregated box and bags of parts. It was a fun build. But assembled, I could not cause it to work, no matter how much I fiddled around with it. A few weeks later the controller board caught fire. The vendor I bought the kit from had disasspeared (an Amazon vendor), and factory was a 'no reply'. I tracked down and found DC42's fabulous DUET3D controller. From that time, I have now replaced every part aside from the stepper motors and 2020 profiles. Everything has been replaced. And now it works, with a bit of advice from the fine folks here on the DUET forums.
My first major problem with my DUET configuration was hot-end temperature problems. That problem was eventually diagnosed as loose heater wire in the connector. Fixed!
The second major problem was mishaped printed parts, I finally diagnosed that as the fan I mounted on DUET controller enclosure was blowing a draft airstream directly on to the print bed!! Hah hah. And don't open the door next to the printer if its windy and cold outside either.
Discovering the proper bed and print temperatures for your selected filament is also very usefull!
So, I'm finally actually printing parts that appear as they are supposed be!
3mm
ps, sadly, my beloved lady and wife of 40 years passed away last Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 3:17am of CoVid, while I was adminstering hospice care morphine dose to help her pass peacefully. Be careful, and treat kindly, hug & kiss your loved ones, you never know when they'll be taken.
I'm not intending to be insulting, but rather, share my experience with the good stuff. It is true that many stripping tools do not work well with Teflon type insulated wire, however, I searched around for tools that do work well with Teflon, in fact I went to my tool lock and got out the four tools that I use here at home to get the part numbers for y'all, two of which I bought at Sears and one online. I'll list them below with their URLs and prices. These work well with PTFE, Teflon, PVC, HHTN, HU, TVNH, eg, all of them including high-voltage silicon. I imaged the two tools that I use the most for your perusal.
Here are the strippers I use:
Strips PVC, Teflon & Silicone wires - Platinum Tools #PN15005 - $13
https://www.specialized.net/platinum-tools-15005c-prostrip-wire-stripper-16-30-awg.html
https://www.alliedelec.com/platinum-tools-15005c/70069526/
Another is Sears Craftsman - Strips PVC, Teflon & Silicone wires perfectly
#73573 (Itm: 00973573000) - 12Ga ~ 16Ga - $14
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-wire-cutter-stripper-pliers-up-front/p-00973573000P
#73574 (Itm: ) 32Ga ~ 22Ga - $13
Although not my favorite tool as this one is a bit more cumbersome to use, it is a more traditional style Teflon type stripper tool and it does strip Teflon type insulation perfectly and is fairly inexpensive for its type of tool, as for instance AMP charges around $400 for these type tools.
Sears Tool: #200-003 (Itm: SPM7057351107) - 8Ga ~ 22Ga - $14
https://www.sears.com/eclipse-gum-eclipse-200-003-cp-369ce-wire/p-SPM7057351107
I use the PTFE because it is a superior material and it doesn't shrink when ya solder it and it exhibits a very long oxidization cycle, so crimps do not become Ohmic after a couple of years, etc.
Left - Sears & Right - Platinum Tools
Here's a shot of the DUET-E Controller wired with PTFE, Silicon & PVC Wire
3mm
The two terminals for the DC Return (aka 'ground'), SHALL be the same size gauge as the power-wires supplying the controller Vin. If your full load current is 18 Amperes, I would recommend adding at least 5 Amperes for load variations and as electronic components age the Amperes invariably increases as components become less efficient, 23 Amperes is likely a good number.
22Ga is ok for small miliAmpere curents but not 10+ Ampere currents.
There are several ways to wire the circuit. I suspect that the simplest is to use one of the control-outputs (as I did) to drive the SSR's control terminals using 22Ga or 24Ga, etc small gauge wire, which will handle the 12 mA SSR control current flow.
When searching for a better priced solid-state-relay (SSR), pay close attention to the specs. There are essentially two types of SSRs, those that switch AC loads and those that switch DC loads. Depending on how the load is powered will mandate the type, DC or AC. Also pay attention to the input Control Voltage rating, as many SSRs will only trigger at 4,5Vdc and above, while the DUET controllers supply 3,3Vdc control Voltage.
There are a few SSRs that trigger at 3,0Vdc upto around 30Vdc and is what you should use if you don't use the DUET MOSFET power-output to control the external SSR which will involve more complicated wiring. The SSR load current rating should be rated at least 50% higher than the actual load current.
Here is the SSR that I've used over the years in numerous projects, it is inexpensive (this forum has also recommended its usage in the past) and it is a reliable product, in my opinion. Shipping cost might be an issue if not shipped in the continental US? This SSR also provides a quite handy red LED that illuminates when the SSR is triggered.
Auber Instruments SRDD-100 SSR
See Auber Instruments at: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=288
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This Auber Instruments 'SRDD-100' SSR is rated at 3,0Vdc ~ 32Vdc Control Voltage which switches 5Vdc to 100 Vdc @ 100 Amperes.
The SSR will need to be heat-sinked. I used the switching power-supply aluminum case and used a heat-sink compound to sink off the heat from my 30A load 100 Ampere rated SSR as depicted below.
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SSR Mounted on Top of Power-Supply
3mm
I just thought I should share this with the newbies here.
Struggling for many weeks to solve a heater fault problem that was driving me nuts. No matter what I tweaked or changed seemed to 'fix' the problem of hotend heater heat rising too slowly, causing a heat fault error message. I tweaked the heating element code, the thermistor code, auto-tuned until my fingers fell off. And then, I wiggled some wires on the Smart-Effector near connector and the fault disappeared!! That was way back Feburary 2018. In July I went in for an electional 1 day gallbladder surgery, things went south, and I expended nearly three months in ICU & had multiple surgeries, all thanks to Xarelto & Exelis...blood thinners. Dangerous meds. So, now that the zipper is healed up and I'm back into my groove, I went and fired up my AnyCubic (all that is remaining of that printer are 2020 profiles, the 3 tower motors, and the belts, everything else has been replaced). And, bingo another heater fault!
The first time I ran it, it took three fault (M562 P2) resets to attain PLA temp, and the second time, it wouldn't get up past 180°C, and the third time not above 170°C.
And then, I remembered...wiggled those wires and its running properly again. Something not crimped too well...or a resistive connector pin?
The moto to this tale newbies, check your wiring when all else fails.
3mm
I don't know if such a drawing exists, however, and generally I suspect that while this is probably not what you'd like to hear, when I am faced with similar matters, I generally have to create those drawings myself. I personally like to use Visio, and if you don't happen to have that program, you can use the free Apache 'OpenOffice' opensource emulation version, 'Draw'. They provide binaries for Windows, Linux and as I recall for Mac as well. In any case, creating your own drawing you can implement all the details that you prefer.
Official Apache OpenOffice Download
Good Luck....3mm
Hey, probably shouldn't need to remind anyone, but when implementing high-Voltage wiring, to use extra safe wiring methods. heat-shrink where possible, Insulate all exposed current carrying metals, enclose it if possible, definently fuse it, etc. And be sure to mount the SSR on a heatsink, preferrably finned. In addition to one not desiring to burn-down one's house, it is also unpleasant to electrocute one's pets, children, wife and-or self!! ;-}
Rotsa Ruck!
3mm
