I finally have my delta running well. I designed my own version of the DC42 Smart-Effector linear rail adapters and a flying-extruder. It is working pretty good now.

Re the SW...DC42 and all the guys who made it work, while it is a really old version, however, I love this software. You guys really did a great job. It is cool.

Thanks for all the good work.

3mm

My 'AnyCubic kossel Linear Plus' if it can actually be called that in its current state of existence, is finally printing. Heck...its only been 18 months since I first fabricated it (was a fully disassembled kit) until now.. I did not work on it continuously, but when I did, I expended weeks. I must admit as a kit it was really fun to build, but the fun part evaporated as I began to attempt to calibrate it to be usable. I won't bore y'all with the gorey details other than to suffice to say, that, the only parts that remain in the printer that are original parts are the 2020 T-Slot profile frame, the belts, the motors and the filament extruder, everything else has been replaced, including all the wire.

3mm's Delta Printer is comprised of,
1x DUET3D EtherNet V1.02 ARM controller board (excellent)
1x PanelDUE 7inch/177,8mm LCD touch panel (excellent)
1x Escher Smart-Effector (excellent)
6x Huntly-Hayden diagonal mag-ball rods (very good)
1x 350W 12Vdc MeanWell Switching PowerSupply (ok)
1x SRD-D100A DC-DC SSR relay (Auber Inst) (good quality)
1x E3D-V6 (authentic...not a clone) HotEnd (very good)
1x aluminum/PCB 180W heat-bed (eBay, no name)
2x printed DC42 designed print-cooler assemblies (my stuff, could be better)

It works. I think it needs a bit of tunning and I definitely require better quality filament, and a whole bunch more experience.

Thanks to all here who aided me in this joint project. Thank you.

3mm
ps, I gotta fix my TS440S/AT 100W Kenwood Ham transceiver in time for the world-wide ARRL (June 23) Amateur Radio Relay League Ham-Field Day coming up. I'll be back...

@phaedrux and All,

Interesting 'intro' post by our late friend Danal.

See: https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/community-meet-greet/hi-from-texas-danal-estes/td-p/7459955

3mm

@danal

Hi, I appreciated your inputs to my questions.

However, and that photo you posted is certainly one that is familiar to me.
: ))

Maybe its a British thing? I've noticed that many folks don't know the technical name for those bearings. They were, according to WikiPedia, invented in Germany and were originally known as being "Heim-Joints", however and there was another popular for them which I seem to have forgotten over the years. When I was doing US Military robotics engineering, they were known as "rod-end bearings". You screw'm into a plate, put a rotating shaft in them, supporting the shaft periodically along its length and turn stuff. American vendors such as McMaster-Carr and Stock Drive/SP, and in their catalogs name these mechanical components as being rod-end bearings. However the REBs are typically SAE rather than (my preference) metric. Folks get confused, the Chinese call them 'fish-eyes', ball-arms and all sorts of other monikers. But their technical name here in the US is, "rod-end' bearings. The units on that effector in the photo appear to be much better quality than those that I received in my kit. I know that you got your's running. I tip my hat.

Cheers

3mm

@p1ngb4ck said in Need help : MagBalls+Smart-Effector for AC LinearKosselPlus:

Hello everybody

I could use some assistance, regarding a modified Anycubic Linear Kossel Plus Delta, that I bought in used, modified state. It already has a Duet2 Maestro and I have been able to print with it already (went through the very informative Guides).
Now I would to upgrade to Haydn Huntleys MagBallArms and Smart-Effector, the printer currently still uses stock rods, rod-ends and effector(with hotend). Also : is there anything that would speak against using a volcano hotend with the smart-effector ?
Are there any users, who have done the same and could provide exact info regarding required rod-length, correct rod-spacing etc. and good stls to mount proper radial fans and 40mm cold-end fans?

BTW : duet3d.com down?

Best regards & thx in advance, Oliver

@p1ngb4ck,

Hi, I too have a ALKP delta. On mine the only parts remaining are the 2020 profiles, linear rails + linear slide bearings, motors and the belts. Everything else I have replaced including the undersized wire that was shipped with my printer.

My AnyPubic Linear Crapper printer's current physical configuration is:
DUET-EtherNet V1.02 controller (excellent) (TriGorilla brd caught fire & burned after 1 week of usage, vendor said was my fault)
SmartEffector + E3D-V6 HotEnd (excellent) (original HotEnd constantly jammed)
7inch PanelDue (useful)
288.13 mm Hayden diagonal rods & magballs (excellent) (original 12 rod-end bearings were sloppy loose; diagonal rods were different lengths)
450W SSR for switching heatbed (bed was not shipped with my printer, I bought it from different vendor)
350W 'LED' switching 12Vdc power-supply (replaced tiny power supply)
Opto Interrupter endstops (replaced original micro-switches end-stops that switched at different positions, randomly)
top & botom metal corner vertex (original injected molded corners were mishaped)
soon to be mounted (when arrives) BondTech BGM 1.75mm Bowden tube extruder + PanCake 0.9º stepper motor

As I have said before, the AKLP as shipped to me was fun to build but that is where the fun stopped. As designed and delivered to me, the printer was incapable of printing as it was uncalibratable. I have an e-mail from AnyCubic factory, that states, "buy our new model, it fixes all the problems you are having!!" I kid you not.

Regarding your bed size, measure it then make your calculations.

I have a minor printing artifact that I am working to resolve, beyond that my homebrew AnyPubic is working great now! Get the Haydens, you'll like'm. I don't know about the E3D Volcano, but the V6 I have works well in my opinion.

Good luck.

3mm

Hi,

There could another reason aside from hardware.

I was pulling my hair out trying to discover what was causing sudden dips in the temperature while printing the 20x20x20 test cube model. I wrote the forum about the problem 4 or 5 months ago prior to a 3 month hospital stay.

The problem, apparently, turned out to be caused by additional temperature codes that were generated by slic3r. That program for some unknown reason inserted (174) additional codes that increased the hotend temperature by 10°C or more from the starting PLA temperature of 210°C. The inserted code was 'M104'.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M104_Set_Extruder_Temperature

"Example: M104 S190"
Set the temperature of the current extruder to 190°C and return control to the host immediately (i.e. before that temperature has been reached by the extruder)."

My Printed Solid "Daily PLA" filament temperature (200°C ~ 220°C), I had set it for 210°C, but because the slic3r code periodically changed the the temp to 220°C or higher, apparently caused the 'program' to throw a heat fault, which paused the printing. It seems, that the heat rise period was taking too long which threw the fault! There could another reason for this? Such as perhaps the print-fan running too fast thereby causing the temperature of the heat block to slowly rise?

Removing the (174) additional M104 codes seemed to fix the problem. I seriously thought that the DUET-E controller had failed.

My hacked up AnyCubic Linear + delta printer now has what may be a vibration problem, I think?, as there is a recurrent 'lump' printed on one side of the test cube. However, beyond that issue, the printer appears to be working very well. No more faults!!

Lots of fiddling...hope this helps..

3mm

@bpislife

Hi, I'm sorry you think that I was chastising you, trust me I wasn't. However, the reason I gave the explanation I gave, was, and is in my opinion, that the Smart-Effector was in fact designed for mag-ball integration, and that the reason that they were not used is because of the points I cited. Was I mistaken? Without a custom adapter plate at the top, won't the mag-ball centers be wider than at the bottom? From what I've read on the 'Net, that's a big no-no and I presumed that's the obvious reason mag-ball arms were not employed (aside from the added cost), even though the Smart-Effector was designed to use them. I was not trying to be rude, and I apologize. I am sorry.

3mm
ps.. 'Fish-eyes' vernacular is ok with me, I just thought maybe I could dispel a bit of the confusion I hear on the 'Net re; their authentic moniker.

@bberger

Pardon me for butting in, however, I solved that problem with my BMG BondTech direct drive extruder on my AnyPubic delta, by designing and printing a nifty problem solving flying-extruder platform supported by soft surgical tubing. I looked each of the direct-drive extruders you cited, I speculate that they are all roughly the same size and weight of of my BMG BondTech. There is no tilt or weight added to my Smart-Effector. I am very happy with the arrangement I fabricated. Not what you'd like to see, but it is certainly a doable work-around.

Eventually I'll get off my lazy butt to upload the details along with oScad design files so others can hack it up as they choose.

3mm

3mm 9 Dec 2018, 19:07

@dc42

Thanks for the reply...

My setup:
DUET-E (EtherNet) HW: V1.02
DUET-E FW: DuetEthernetFirmware-1.18.1
Panel DUET FW: 1.20 (15b1)
Smart Effector: E3D HotEnd + Silicon Sock
350W Switching Power Supply.

I have printed several objects recently, which were relatively flawless and without any hot-end heater faults being thrown. Last night, I put in some new PLA filament (Printed Solid brand, "Daily", turned off both fans, and heat bed, dialed in 210°C on the E3D hot-end and about halfway (145°C), it threw a heater fault, emitting something like, "Temperature rising too slowly, etc". I ran the heater fault reset, attempted to attain target temperature again, and it threw a faul again.

The Vin display on the WebControl is depicting 11.3Vdc, yet using my 5 digit Fluke lab DVM, measuring directly on the input Voltage terminals, shows 12.1Vdc. Something seems amiss there? I presume that there is a reference source somewhere for the ADC, perhaps that might be cause of these apparently random heater-faults? I've been trying to find the cause for these for a long time. It comes and goes. I've checked all my wiring, I've done pull tests on the connectors, I use 'bootlace' wire terminators. In my mind the problem behaves as a intermittent controller. In addition to throwing heater faults, the controller frequently disconnects, yet there are only two devices on the network, the pc and the DUET-E controller, aside from the switch, and its a pass-through switch.

Got any suggestions?

thanks

3mm,
ps the above post, was posted when I pressed the space-bar, which caused the edit to post?? I can't find the 'edit' after post function on this bulletin-board? Does it have that feature?

Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet
Firmware Electronics: Duet Ethernet 1.02
Firmware Version: 1.21 (2018-03-21)
Web Interface Version: 1.21

Editing 0:/sys/heightmap.csv
RepRapFirmware height map file v2 generated at 2019-00-13 14:24, mean error 0.035, deviation 0.039

FYI

Hello All,

What is the last release version of SW that supports the DUET EtherNet v1.02 hardware controller?

thanks in advance...3mm

@bberger said in Best way to increase rod spacing without 3D printed parts?:

@3mm because I want to get rid of the flying extruder.

I have hard mounted the Orbiter v2 on my Smart Effector with an approx 7cm adapter and prints come out insanely beautifully compared to my (genuine) BMG flying extruder (with only 15cm bowden).

I have way less ringing, can run 5k accel / 600 jerk / 100-150mm/s, 0.015 PA, 0.6mm retractions and no input shaping with barely any artifacts.. (I had to run 70mms, 3k accel, 50Hz DDA, 300 jerk, 1.5mm retractions to get any resemblance of a good looking print on my flying BMG before, I contribute that to the bowden tube yanking on the SE, I doubt that's the 150g saving on mass of the flying extruder..) - and also that 7cm "lever" with the mass of the motor up that high has me a bit concerned..

I'm currently prototyping some 80mm adapters in PLA-CF, trying to keep them flat so it can possibly be laser cut / milled out of Alu/CF in the future.

I'm not after speed benchys, but more after rapid prototyping..

@bberger

HI. Sounds like you have a better handle on things than I do. I'm still dealing with a few significant artifacts, however, my prints became signficantly better when I implemented my own (OScad) BMG flying-extruder for my SmartEffector and linear-rail magball PCB adapters. I designed my linear-rail MagBall adapters to use the SE effector MagBall PCB. My Bowow tube is about 18cm long. But I'm not seeing a any major ringing, but anything above a specific height gets mangled.

I'd be interested to see your flying-extruder configuration if you happen to have any photos of it before you chucked-it out?

In any case, good luck with your strategy, sounds interesing.

3mm

@bberger

If I understand things correctly, why not implement a flying-extruder mount for the Orbiter? That way you everything remains as it was designed and intended to work.

3mm

@bberger

Pardon me for butting in, however, I solved that problem with my BMG BondTech direct drive extruder on my AnyPubic delta, by designing and printing a nifty problem solving flying-extruder platform supported by soft surgical tubing. I looked each of the direct-drive extruders you cited, I speculate that they are all roughly the same size and weight of of my BMG BondTech. There is no tilt or weight added to my Smart-Effector. I am very happy with the arrangement I fabricated. Not what you'd like to see, but it is certainly a doable work-around.

Eventually I'll get off my lazy butt to upload the details along with oScad design files so others can hack it up as they choose.

3mm

@heinrich-platau

Hey, probably shouldn't need to remind anyone, but when implementing high-Voltage wiring, to use extra safe wiring methods. heat-shrink where possible, Insulate all exposed current carrying metals, enclose it if possible, definently fuse it, etc. And be sure to mount the SSR on a heatsink, preferrably finned. In addition to one not desiring to burn-down one's house, it is also unpleasant to electrocute one's pets, children, wife and-or self!! ;-}

Rotsa Ruck!

3mm

@mdejong

Since when is Pulse Width Modulation, not On/OFF?

3mm

@phaedrux and All,

Interesting 'intro' post by our late friend Danal.

See: https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/community-meet-greet/hi-from-texas-danal-estes/td-p/7459955

3mm

Hello,

Since I added my homebrew flying effector and modified the DUET Smart-Effector linear rail adapters, (shortened bowden tube to about 6inches/152,4mm, from 80inches/203,2cm), my mostly homebrew delta printer is more or less behaving itself! Yeah!!

However I have a question. When I'm auto-cal'ing, I notice that the Z-Probe status indicator infrequently, as the nozzel touches the bed, it'll turn red with a 1000 depiction, while many of the other touch-downs remain 0 without the background changing to red. What does this represent? Is it an indication of something that needs to be remedied?

Thanks in advance...3mm

@droftarts

Ok, will do. The screen re-reverted user interface returned after a power-cycle. I getting used to it, at first things seem scattered randomly about, but there is actually a logic strategy in it's implementation. On a 38,1cm/15" LapTop screen the fonts are a bit small, but with the 'dark' its useable. I'll get used to it. I printed a few things tonight using the Linux box and the new version. The user interface is obviously designed for production!! Heh heh. Gotta love it!

Thanks for everything...3mm

@droftarts,

Note that this WILL update DWC to version 2.x, which is
a bit different from 1.x. You can go back to 1.x if you prefer it.

I clicked the 'Revert' to older user interface button, but where is the revert back button? I'd be interested to try to use that new interface for a time, to see how it works. Need I reinstall the whole FW packaged to regain that user interface?

Thanks in advance...3mm