Should I wait for the DC42's PCB carriages or go Robotdigg?
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It's worth getting Hayden's mag arms, that way you will be able to upgrade to our system once it gets out of prototype.
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Yes, I work the same (best) way to understand 3d printing and the variables that go into that. I've bought my printer about a year ago and love every fase of upgrading it. Designing/altering and printing my own fan shrouds for standard (loud) 40mm fans, then blower fans (very loud) and now 40mm noctua fans (quiet but not enough airflow yet in my situation. Working on that). Upgraded from RAMPS to Duet WiFi, etc. Step by step. A new design every evening, if necessary. I've followed your thread too, of course!
So, my question is more like: If DC42's carriages are right around the corner and have a belt tensioning system, I could anticipate on that.
Next to Duet wifi, aluminum plate from cleverd3d was a great upgrade (for automatic calibration, not for bed calibration. The bed-height map I get is very coarse (i think because it's not evenly black). So I don't use that). E3d Titan upgrade worked really well. Coming from a Nema 17 5.3? extruder. The Titan is much quicker.
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It's worth getting Hayden's mag arms, that way you will be able to upgrade to our system once it gets out of prototype.
Great, I was thinking about getting those beforehand. So best route would be Robotdigg and Haydn. And then wait for your system. Any timeframe? And can you give any info on what the upgrade would be? Accuracy / features? What are you aiming at?
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The PCB carriage adapters are designed to fit behind standard printed carriages with 20mm fixing centres, or the Robotdigg ones - which I will be using. I too am upgrading my delta to 2040, also I'm going to try linear rails instead of wheeled carriages. I am currently waiting for the extrusions and PCB parts to arrive.
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Hi,
New the board but longtime lurker.
I've got a 1515 Kossel XL with crossed bars top-to-bottom for rigidity with Duet WiFi and Dc42's ir-sensor. Extruder is a e3d Titan (on 0.9 degrees nema 17, towers 1.8) and hotend a e3dV6 full metall, all 12v. Parts and hotend cooling with noctua's 40mm, really silent. Bed is a heated PEI-covered precision aluminum plate (clever3d), which is great. Excellent with DC42's sensor. After cooling (PLA) parts just pop off. Silicon heated mat from filafarm (220v with SRR) on order.
However, I try to plan my further upgrade route (among 2040 extrusions and 24v) and now a belt snapped and I've been oggling the robotdigg's carriages with belt tensioners which I can get from a dutch supplier here in The Netherlands. But, I've also heard DC42 mention the development of PCB carriages (and PCB effector) to be combined with haydn's magnetic joins .
Is there any information when these will come available and what the features on them will be? Would there be any advantages to wait for them instead for going for robotdigg's carriages? And maybe some info on the effector too
?Greetings,
Jeroen
Could you share the Dutch Supplier please?
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Could you share the Dutch Supplier please?
Yes, you can find them here: https://3dprinteronderdelen.nl/onderdelen/aluminium-carriage.html?___SID=U
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Thanks for that I was hoping that they would also have the 2040 corners as well but looks like they don't ah well never mind?
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The OP mentions using 1.8 degree steppers on his delta uprights, but a 0.9 degree stepper for his extruder. I was curious as to whether there is a reason behind only changing the extruder over to 0.9 degrees?
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What are the pcb carriages going to do?
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The purpose of the PCB carriage adapters is simply to ensure that the magballs have precisely the same spacing at the carriages as they do at the effector, thereby eliminating one source of geometrical error. That's all.
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What Ball spacing have you gone for David?
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55mm.
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OK just interested I have gone with 64 on Water jet cut 3mm Alluminium Slider pieces that will accept the Robotdigg carriages and either Openbuilds full size Vee Wheels or fasten onto HIWIN Sliders?
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In for updates. I have RDG carriages with Haydn's magball arms on the way.
I'm upgrading to IGUS drylin N rails and preloaded slides- will let you know how I fair.
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you will need to do some form of adaptor to mount the Robotdigg carriages onto IGUS Drylin rails the hole spacing's are totally different the RD are a 20x20 pitch and the drylin I think is 20x15 but that depends on which rails you have ordered.
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There are two slider sizes for the type of linear rails we normally use in deltas, the standard ones with 20x15 mm fixing centres, and the 'long body' ones with 20x20mm (which is what everyone uses). I haven't looked to see whether Igus does the long body sort in their range.
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Looks to me like the Drylin N series only has 2 holes spaced at 28mm apart on the centre line.
Drylin T look interesting but they are huge
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The OP mentions using 1.8 degree steppers on his delta uprights, but a 0.9 degree stepper for his extruder. I was curious as to whether there is a reason behind only changing the extruder over to 0.9 degrees?
Well, I've read the documentation on the e3d titan extruder and it says that the new kits should come with a 0.9 degree stepper motor (they don't mention anything about 24v curiously).
My supplier only had the old kits on stock, so I bought the 0.9 degrees stepper separately from them to try. I had to cut the max speed on the extruder by half to get it working correctly (as expected from dc42 blog entries). I'm not sure If only the extruder made the prints better or that the 0.9 degrees stepper helped too (but then again have a 1.8 stepper on the side to see. If I want / need/ have time). I like to think so.I want to change the tower steppers to 0.9 degrees in the future but then want to change to 24v as well. Not cut my tower speeds by half.
However, I like a quiet machine (now 12v quiet corsair SF450 power supply and quiet 40mm noctua fans. Can't hear the power supply or fans, sitting next to it. Printer without enclosure) . So I am looking into those aspects before changing to 24v , preferably with blower fans since I had great results with those. But the cheap ones are noisy.Like everybody. Just tinkering along.
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Steppers are not defined 12v or 24v so good to go in both.
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However, I like a quiet machine (now 12v quiet corsair SF450 power supply and quiet 40mm noctua fans. Can't hear the power supply or fans, sitting next to it. Printer without enclosure) . So I am looking into those aspects before changing to 24v , preferably with blower fans since I had great results with those. But the cheap ones are noisy.
Changed to 24V with a set of 12V silent fans as well. You can get a small DC-DC converter and feed the 12V to the center pin on the fan selector jumper. Which allows you to run constantly on and pwm controlled fans from a different voltage.
