[not yet solved] Tevo Little Monster DuetWifi errors
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@giostark There are a few reasons it could be grinding into the filament like that.
- e steps not calibrated properly and it's trying to over extrude too much and it can't push the filament out fast enough
- trying to extrude at too low a temperature perhaps because the thermistor is reading too low
- extruder tensioner arm is too tight or too loose
- Nozzle too close to the surface to extrude properly
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Hi there!
I need some improvement before I write how I make this conversion to work properly(with my setup).
Yep was the 4th. I supposed that because no material was released on the glass. (of course now the z-axis offset must me related to the layer height(0.1 - 0.2 - 0.4 ecc).
Now I'm facing with the settings for have a decent print with ABS.
I have some pads but im trying directly on glass so:1)Do you suggest to try those pads for have a better adhesion or try some esoteric solution directly on glass again ?
2)About printing : nozzle 250 , bed directly on glass 115/120 (cleaned with alcool 99,9%)
I have some trouble with the shape it self. I tried with 30% fan close the nozzle and 0%.
And I noticed that on tiny part at 0.1 layer I had to use the fan a 30% (near) for avoid melting. But on bigger part I need to power off the fan for avoid detachment from the bed.
But hell I printed 6 part and all have the same problem (despite different settings , layers height ecc)
It seems that the geometric shape come deformed in 2 point. (the left of the shorter sides). All those 6 parts have the same problem. The quality of the long side is interesting but the shorter ones really are wrong.
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@giostark For best results with ABS and glass, clean with 99% alcohol and then put a coat of PVA glue stick on it and use a high bed temp 90c-100c with a slow first layer. Make sure the fan is off. ABS will warp and crack with even a small amount of fan, or if the room is cold and draughty.
It's hard to tell from your photo if it's a matter of the perimeters being too fast and pulling the filament away from where it should be, or if it's a problem with your delta calibration.
If you print a simple XYZ cube how does it look?
Do you have PLA to use for the tuning process? ABS has it's own challenges that can complicate matters.
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Ok I lowered the temp of the glass to your suggestions. I build the enclosure proper for avoid the cold issue.
My speed is settles to 45mm/s and the first layer to the 30% of that speed.
Im supposing could be a Z -lift trouble...the head rise and when come down hit the glass...I'll try to set 0 as default (now is 2mm).The cube is pretty good damn. Seems as from a fusion (the thickness is near 0.5) :
Could be the time for upgrade also the BL-touch with some more accurate.
About this have you idea for one good sensor ?
Next month I'll take for sure the Nema 17 ( 0.9 degree) for all axis and also for the extruder.edit:
I tried but seems that there is something wrong BEFORE the process start.
Look at the picture (I had to put the memory close because the reflection, the phone have not manual focus) is wrong even the first layer!
The long strait lines are convergent and not parallels. Mmmm....
Is like are sent wrong coordinates.
I'll try also the other engines for slice the part
edit2: I tried also the cura engine and it present always the issue of NOT rising the Z-axis more this convergent one. So the cura engine is not work properly with this printer or with this firmware (1,2x+) ?
The bottom short layer is wrong as well.
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That cube looks great. Now if you measure the size of it, is it 20mm all around?
Every Z probe type has some pros and cons. There is no perfect sensor. The BLTouch has the advantage of working on all bed surfaces and you can even switch surfaces without having to make any configuration changes. But it has the disadvantage of having a nozzle offset which can be more of an issue for a delta in cases where the effector may tilt slightly at different parts of the bed.
There are also varying quality of BLTouch probes out there. The only BLTouch I would currently recommend anyone use is the latest genuine BLTouch-Smart V2. I've had very good results with it and it looks like any design issues with the older style probe have now been resolved.
For a delta, the Smart Effector may be the best choice, but it has its own requirements. It has the benefit of using the nozzle tip as the probe, so no offset. It also has some very nice connectivity features for the delta built right into it. You may need to make some changes to get it mounted though.
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Thanks for all the suggestions , I'll investigate !
Have a look at above post...I edited it with pictures
The cube is near to be regular. The digital caliper report near 24.80 for both sides (should be 25 i guess). But is so thin that if I press with the caliper for take the misure it deform. -
Late to this thread: Here's a link to the contents of my sys folder, since we have similar machines / you ref'd the guide I'd made.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G31JnKJED3diQKI7Ett58GNsw1T73qRD
Note that I'm using .9 deg steppers, not the stock 1.8 ones.
@dc42 : The "Upload file" button on the forum here doesn't work, it only lets me upload images (and there's an upload image button next to it).Also, here is the FFF file I use that goes with those settings. Note that I'm using a 1.2 mm volcano nozzle with petg, but it may give you something to start with.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DU0TlTwxl11pbpXNqD7qz9wD5uk7tnS1
You'll see that I moved all my 'start / end' scripts into custom macros in the above zip.I'm also using the bondtech BMG extruder with a E3D pancake stepper on it, and I swapped out the hotend to be genuine E3D parts.
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Thanks also to you Eric!
Im facing all the mess of the configuration. Im trying lots of different settings. And I have seen that if I dont use the Z-lift in retraction the plastic became a mess.
Today I'll order the better motors! (following the link of your guide)
And the bondtech BMG seems not still available on the bondtech site. (your link is dead) Could you suggest an alternative or something similar?edit:
Did you set stepper drive backword for? The polarity of the new motor is reversed? -
Yah, it looks like Bontech's whole site is down :s
Here's a link to Matterhackers, i've bought components from them before (since they're in the US\ I'm in the US):
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bondtech-bmg-extruder-175/sk/M88WAUL2?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi8fdBRCVARIsAEkDvnJhCWM3jOfS9gYNKUiTYOk4Zfm9jARIcjvJEknTLaS0tYsp08Dz4KwaAs8AEALw_wcB
Filastruder also caries it (I've also bought from them before):
https://www.filastruder.com/products/bondtech-bmg-extruder
You'll also need one of these for the bottom:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e3d-groove-mount-bowden-adapter-1.75mm/sk/MQTFE8VWI reversed the polarity of the motors from day 1, based on how the delta was configured.
I use z-lift, but only because it's a delta (all the motors are already moving up and down, so no real harm here, compared to a dropping Z-bed (core-xy) or lifting extruder gantry (prusa) ), and because when printing with a 1.2mm nozzle, sometimes a small surface detail can cause a big snag (since while the nozzle is bigger, and the extrusion is bigger, all the printer mechanics haven't scaled up 3x as big with it). With a .4mm nozzle I don't think it'd be necessary, in fact I ran with a .4mm nozzle for months when I first got it and never needed z-lift on it.
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Hi there,
Are arriving 5 motors Nema 17 0.9 . The Bondtech BMG Extruder - Standard from Filastruder and the bottom adapter from an german e-bay shop.
Im managing to print something but the extruder make me be a devil. So muuuuch "mouse bite", (and general not good quality) also when not expected. (I mean, 3rd layer? LOL)
I hope that changing those parts finally I can achieve some good results a little more easily than now.
I'll inform you about the progress... -
Hi all,
Motor are arrived and I installed just for the axis and seems that all is going better. The extruder is still on the way to come.
I'll update all later in a new 3d...Edit:
Right now , I facing the issue that after the print is finished the head fall in the bed (glass!). After the home G28 in the ending script I have to put something that dont disable completely the motors ?
Or I have to modify one config file Adding something in the bad.g or similar ?
The printer after some time go to idle and the problem occur again...
Can you advice something for solve this?
tnxI found this: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/1485
And im looking into it. -
@giostark said in [help] Tevo Little Monster + DuetWiFi + DuetTouch7" errors:
Right now , I facing the issue that after the print is finished the head fall in the bed (glass!). After the home G28 in the ending script I have to put something that dont disable completely the motors ?
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Make sure you don't have M18 or M84 in your end print GCode script in your slicer, or in file stop.g.
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If necessary, increase the idle current by adding e.g. I60 (that's uppercase-letter-i followed by 60) to your M906 command in config.g. That tells the firmware to maintain 60% of normal motor current when the motors are idle. The default is 30%.
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Print and install these, then you can disable all motors after printing
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This is weird , I added G28 in the stop.g and cancel.g .
Before they were empty.
BUT still the head fall down at the speed light crashing on the bed. O_O
I changed the I30 to I60 but nothing seem even slow a little.
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@giostark What do you have in your slicer end code?
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@phaedrux
just this :
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
G28 ; home -
If 60% is still too low for an idle hold current try leaving it at 100% so the motors stay powered.
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@phaedrux
I noticed Matter Control (usb connected) send in the terminal when I stop the printer via "cancel" in MC panel those gcode : N5 M84*26.
Instead If I press the stop or emergency stop in WC (so no usb cable) , I see the popup of M112 and M999 and the head fly down.
I tried to print via file.gcode and there is no M84 inside.
And the only one way to stop the printer via WC is the stop emergency button. (there is not a cancel button)
When The printer is finished, after some second, the head crash in the bed. Of course is just matter of time before Ill break the glass. In the last print the head melted the plastic falling directly on the printed part
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Does it crash down on to the bed immediately the print finishes, or 30 seconds later? If it's immediate then there must be a M18 or M84 or similar command at the end of the GCode file.
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Was after 30s , so I found in the section drivers in config.g this "M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout" and I now excluded it. I have settled at 60% the motor, lets see if if enough
