Questions regarding CAN setup with Duet 3 6hc and Duet 3 mini 5+
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Hi all,
I have a couple of questions as I've been using duet boards for some time now but mainly with Klipper and I'm thinking to go back to the original RRF as I would like to use CAN and it seems to be simpler to implement if using RRF.
1st of all is that "simpler" statement true ?
2- In the idea of getting this implemented, what toolhead would you recommend using with a Hemera hotend, the standard one not the xs; the 1LC v1.2? or is the latest Roto toolhead an option ?
3- I wasn't able to find the CAN bus cable in the website, is the cable available for purchase or I need to build it myself (I know the cables are different between the 6hc and the mini 5+) ?
4- In Klipper for can you need to flash both board, is that also the case in RRF or this is automatically done when you setup your firmware with the configurator tool?
5- When replacing Klipper with RRF, how should I go about that process, meaning can I just use the configurator tool with the latest firmware or do I need to do start with an older version of the RRF and do incremental upgrades till I get to the latest version, this might be a silly question but I prefer to look silly and not brick my boards than look stupid after bricking them!This are the questions I currently have, some may come later following the answers I get, in any case many thanks for your answers and help.
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Have you seen this page yet? It may answer some of your questions.
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/CAN_connection
There are a few tool board options. It's up to you which makes the most sense.
https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_3_family/Duet_3_Toolboard_1LC
https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_3_family/Duet_3_Roto_ToolboardPick the feature set that makes the most sense in your application.
Which mainboard are you using?
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@Phaedrux Hi,
Thanks for the links, I did came accros the can connection page but did not do a deep dive on in.
So there's no "incompatibility issues" by using the roto toolboard instead of the 1LC, that's good to know; my aim is to have only one cable going back to the board and thought that the roto would be more "future proof" than the 1LC. I'll be using the Mini 5+ to start on my sidewinder X1 to begin with and if all good with do the same with the Mini 5+ on my Ender 5+.
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@aldiallo Yes, the roto would be a better choice over the 1LC.
Theres also the Fly-SHT36 Max V3 too -
@jay_s_uk Hi,
Thanks for the confirmation on the roto toolboard, concerning the Fly-SHT36 Max V3, I never heard of it before will also have a look.
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@aldiallo said in Questions regarding CAN setup with Duet 3 6hc and Duet 3 mini 5+:
1st of all is that "simpler" statement true ?
Yes. It's largely plug and play.
2- In the idea of getting this implemented, what toolhead would you recommend using with a Hemera hotend, the standard one not the xs; the 1LC v1.2? or is the latest Roto toolhead an option ?
I've got an original Hemera, and run it with a 1LC. A Roto would be a good upgrade, gives extra options, functionality, and has a stronger processor.
3- I wasn't able to find the CAN bus cable in the website, is the cable available for purchase or I need to build it myself (I know the cables are different between the 6hc and the mini 5+) ?
You didn't say what Duet 3 mainboard you have. The Roto and 1LC are supplied with a CAN cable, but the end to connect to the mainboard is wire, as there's a number of different options, as you might be connecting it to a Mini 5+ (2-pin KK connector), a 6HC/6XD (RJ11 plug) or Tool Distribution board (4-pin JST ZH connector). So you generally have to crimp on end of the wire, or solder two wire together, eg an RJ11 plug to the toolboard CAN cable. And then there's more options if you have other toolboards in between...
4- In Klipper for can you need to flash both board, is that also the case in RRF or this is automatically done when you setup your firmware with the configurator tool?
Largely, yes, it's automatic. You want both mainboard and toolboard(s) on the same firmware version. You upload the firmware zip release, which contains firmware for everything, and all boards and toolboards should be updated together.
5- When replacing Klipper with RRF, how should I go about that process, meaning can I just use the configurator tool with the latest firmware or do I need to do start with an older version of the RRF and do incremental upgrades till I get to the latest version, this might be a silly question but I prefer to look silly and not brick my boards than look stupid after bricking them!
You need to erase the Klipper firmware, and flash the Duet firmware, using Bossa. See https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_firmware
You can flash the latest RepRapFirmware to the Duet. You will also need to manually set up the SD card. For the file structure, and the files you need, see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/SD_card
Basically, you need the sys folder with a basic config.g in it that starts the network, and the www folder with DWC files in it, so you can connect over the network.Ian
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@droftarts Hi, thanks for the detailed responses.
Concerning the boards, I'm currently running 2 mini 5+, one on my Ender 5+ and 1 on my Sidewinder; (I do have the 6hc in her box waiting for a future project ( Voron or RatRig, haven't made a choice yet and currently need to figure out space in the garage as no more available space in the house) so will be 2-pin KK connector.
I've received the Roto tool head and I see the cable your talking about, I was asking about the cable as a just in case I might be short on the the cable length; I also ordered the Duet 3 Scanning Probe Z probe, am I right to think that I can plug it directly to the Roto tool head and not used the board that comes with it?
If all goes well with the Artillery, the Ender will follow suit; I'm maybe bitting more than I can chew but for me it's an exciting project!!
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@aldiallo the Roto toolboard has the SZP built in to it, so you don’t need an extra SZP board. It should be supplied with the coil boards though, that do need to be connected to it.
Ian
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@droftarts thank you
