Toolboard 1LC troubles
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Can you disconnect the motor and anything connected to the IO connectors, and see if it still gets hot?
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@Phaedrux one of IO is used for BLTouch, I can't start the print without it. Maybe it's not a big deal if I leave this one connected?
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@Phaedrux @dc42 @oliof Unfortunately, I think I have recreated the main issue with my other printer with exactly the same setup.... I have touched the nozzle with tweezers and I think something shorted due to static discharge. Blower fan immediately started to blow at 100% speed instead of 20%.. And now I have "hotend offline" in my DWC...
"On the v1.3 toolboard the mounting screw holes are all grounded via 100K resistors to provide a path to ground for any static build up in the extruders, assuming the toolboard is mounted to the extruder" - so if any of 1LC mounting bolts touches the extruder motor, I can simply wire a hotend with one of the mounting bolts?
Also, am I right that I can ground hotend to any duet GND pin? I would also ground the hotend of my Modix printers, but there is no toolboard. So I would connect the wire from hotend to Duet2 Wifi ground pin.
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@dc42 Hi. I have purchased a new TB 1LC to try to swap it and see if the problem is still there. And I noticed that one component on old and new board is different. Both boards are v1.3, both with 202305-xxx code. Could this be an issue?
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@Arminas I wouldn't worry too much about the different capacitors, I expect they are interchangeable. I have a v0.6 toolboard here with two black ones, and a v1.2 and v1.2a with one black and one red one. I thought I had a v1.3, but can't find it at the moment. The pictures on the documentation page also show this variation: https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_3_family/Duet_3_Toolboard_1LC
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts Okay. So as I understand, I had a short circuit due to static charge and it damaged the 1LC. I have grounded my hotend with simple wire to the printers frame. Frame is grounded. I checked the continuity between hotend and power sockets ground pin. But I still can see a spark after I touch the nozzle with tweezers. How can it be? Building's ground is not working?
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@Arminas How is the frame grounded? It should be to the negative side of the power supply. If you're grounding the frame, it shouldn't rely on the frame itself to conduct, ie use a 'star' wiring layout, where all ground wires come to one point on the frame, with a wire to the PSU negative terminal. Check continuity of the ground from the hot end to the PSU negative.
Alternatively, wire the hot end ground to a mounting screw on the toolboard, or the toolboard's GND pin.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@Arminas just to confirm there is no issue with the electrolytic caps. you pointed out. Both types meet the specification for those parts.
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@droftarts Okay, I might need some more explanation on this
I have grounded the frame to the power socket's ground pin. As I was assembling the printer, there where an instructions to ground the bed to the PSU ground, and from PSU ground to power socket ground pin, so bed is grounded like per instructions. -
@droftarts Is there a way I can check if the TB 1LC is actually permanently damaged or not?
