Orbiter 2.0 configuration on Duet 2 wifi

Anvil

Hi! So Im setting up an Orbiter 2.0 on my new EVA printhead. I've got it going pretty well and am in the process of tuning it. I set everything up according to the instructions for reprap firmware... but my main question is the instructions noting that it should be configured to be set at 1.2A for the motor current and later after klipper and marlin configurations it references tuning it according to the vref?

I dont think the duet 2 wifi has any sort of trimmer pot or anything... so do i need to make an adjustment to the config at all? The motor did feel hot but it was staying below 75c for most of the tuning i was doing yesterday...
I read more on orbiter projects website and it did say that its fine to run at 100c... but also that it shouldnt exceed 75c in a room temperature setting?

When i was max flow testing however i did start getting up to 86c on the motors surface.

Should i start attempting to tune the motor current? Orbiters instructions are a little back and forth on saying its designed to be set to 1.2A and is fine to run hot but also to be sure to tune the motor current with the vref...

and then also I have my esteps dialed in for the extruder very consistently... however I have to set my flow at 73% to not over extrude. It prints wonderfully at this setting but it just feels odd having to tune flow that low.

jay_s_uk

@anvil i've set mine to 1amp.
These are my esteps E679.8.
This is on a voron 2.4

dc42

@anvil said in Orbiter 2.0 configuration on Duet 2 wifi:

Hi! So Im setting up an Orbiter 2.0 on my new EVA printhead. I've got it going pretty well and am in the process of tuning it. I set everything up according to the instructions for reprap firmware... but my main question is the instructions noting that it should be configured to be set at 1.2A for the motor current and later after klipper and marlin configurations it references tuning it according to the vref?
I dont think the duet 2 wifi has any sort of trimmer pot or anything... so do i need to make an adjustment to the config at all? The motor did feel hot but it was staying below 75c for most of the tuning i was doing yesterday...
I read more on orbiter projects website and it did say that its fine to run at 100c... but also that it shouldnt exceed 75c in a room temperature setting?

Vref is only relevant to old control boards or driver modules without UART or SPI control.

"1.2A" is ambiguous. It could mean peak or RMS current. RepRapFirmware always uses peak motor current in its M906 command, because historically peak current was what you set using the Vref pot using Allegro drivers (before Trinamic drivers existed), and Duet was one of the first boards to have software-settable current. Marlin variants for boards using Allegro drivers and that support software current control use peak current too; but Marlin ports for boards using Trinamic drivers use RMS current. I don't think the Marlin devs realised that the Trinamic datasheet used RMS current whereas Allegro used peak. I don't know what Klipper uses.

So if you set 1.2A current in the M906 command in config.g then you should be OK; but if the quoted 1.2A is RMS then you could increase it to 1.2 * 1.414 = 1.7A. However, if the motor gets hot at 1.2A then I suggest you leave it at 1.2A, unless you experience skipped steps.

Anvil

@dc42 so what would be my next step if im experiencing an extruder click every 30 seconds or so? Lower it?

dc42

@anvil does your print show signs of over-extrusion?

If it's only one click every 30 secs or so then the problem may be that you are over-extruding and that is causing back-pressure to the nozzle. If that's the case then it's a good thing that the extruder is skipping steps. The alternative would be for it to grind the filament up and clog the extruder.

Anvil

@dc42 I dont think its actually skipping steps though. I really cant pinpoint the noise if its the hob gears or in the housing...
The tension arm never moves and the visible bearing doesnt bounce. And im also not seeing any hiccups in the print.

I went through teaching techs calibration site twice getting it dialed in and my e steps are spot on. I still had to dial the flow back to 72% in my slicer. But It could just be the rapidos long melt zone and having to print PETG slower than pla. So im not sure if thats some underlying issue or anything but everything is printing very well...

Maybe im just being paranoid about burning it out. Ive been monitoring it with a FLIR thermal camera and i havent seen it get above 92c ... generally hangs out around 85- 86c.