Extruder Motor Skipping and Inconsistent Layers
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Alright, then we need to determine if your thermistor is actually a genuine item from E3D or actually something else. Where did you get it?
If the thermistor is something else and the temps are wrong, we'd need to determine what values to actually use. Or perhaps there is something wrong with the assembly causing temps to report incorrectly. Photos of the hotend?
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@phaedrux The current thermistor being used came with the E3D V6 hotend kit which I had purchased from Matterhackers and had shipped to me. I would also like to add that this problem still existed with previous hotend before performing the swap, the previous hotend was an E3d V6 which had came with the original prusa machine which I had ordered in 2018 direct from prusa. For pictures, the hotend is pretty well encased in the extruder assembly. I'd gladly disassemble and take photos, can you please detail exactly what you'd like to see?
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Ok, so it sounds like it's a genuine E3D thermistor, and we have you using the correct settings now.
This may sound silly, but are you sure you're using PLA? Do you have different filament to test with?
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@phaedrux I am sure I'm using PLA as the roll I'm using came as a two pack and I'm using the other roll in an anycubic i3 mega S right next to my machine in question. The problem persisted with a roll of white SUNLU PLA
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@phaedrux An important data point to add. This machine and duet board combo hasn't always produced this issue. Upon very first installing the board and getting things up and running for the first time. I was able to print two decent benchys that were free from this issue. From there, I updated firmware to the latest and ran a pid tune of the original hotend that came with the machine, and that is where this issue began surfacing. At this point hardware feels out of the question to me and this seems to be some form of software issue. Any chance I can factory reset the firmware but keep my config file?
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@secretasianman7 said in Extruder Motor Skipping and Inconsistent Layers:
Any chance I can factory reset the firmware but keep my config file?
Well sure, that's the normal update process. Just upload this zip file to the system tab in DWC as is, don't extract it first.
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.4.0/Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.0.zip
The PID tune will only help the temperature stay stable. It doesn't change what the reported temperature is.
The fact that increasing temperature helps it extrude makes me think either the temp reported isn't accurate or the plastic isn't actually PLA and requires a higher temperature.
Are you able to perform a cold pull on the hotend and see if you get a clean imprint of the nozzle? Perhaps there is a blockage.
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@phaedrux I don't have any high temp filament on hand, but could perform a cold pull with some PLA. In regards to firmware, what I meant really was, could I roll back to whatever version of firmware was on my board when I first got it, before I had performed the update to 3.4? Is there any special process I need to perform to make that happen?
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@secretasianman7 said in Extruder Motor Skipping and Inconsistent Layers:
Is there any special process I need to perform to make that happen?
Generally you just upload the zip file for the version you want to use. The config file changes needed between Version 2.05 and earlier and 3.0 and later make it a bit trickier and you'd need a config file for the older syntax if you intend to go back that far, but I don't think that's going to make a difference here.
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@phaedrux so this brings me to another completely unrelated problem I've always had with this board but didnt mention here. The firmware upload process from DWC has never worked for me. It always fails some percentage in to the updating process. So what I did was unzip the file plug the SD card from the board into my computer and manually overwrote the contents. Then ran the m997 command to perform the update process. Was that proper technique or should I have performed that differently?
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Please try uploading the 3.4 zip I posted above and let's see what happens.
Can you confirm that your DWC version is the same as your main firmware version?
Even so, whatever firmware version is actually installed should still behave normally.
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@phaedrux @phaedrux Ok, I just successfully uploaded and installed the 3.4.0 firmware you provided. Confirmed that the DWC version matches the firmware version. Also performed several cold pulls to remove any debris that may have been in the nozzle. After cold pulls, tried feeding different PLA. After all that, the problem persists. I noticed something about the cold pull, not sure if this is significant or not, but upon pulling the filament, I noticed that the diameter thins out a little for about a 2 or 3 millimeters of filament length. Picture Attached.
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That looks pretty normal for a cold pull.
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@secretasianman7 seems like youve tried a lot with your hotend and motor, but have you checked the extruder mechanism? Could be some debris got in the gears so they don't run as smooth?
Home-built CoreXY, Duet Wifi, Chimera direct drive, 2x BMG, 300x300x300 build volume
i3 clone with a bunch of mods -
I lot of your issue points to (as many others have suggested) a temperature measurement problem. Have you tried checking the input on the Duet board? If you have a 100k ohm resistor on hand, replace the thermistor and see if it reads 25C. Also, a 1k resistor should show about 161C. If these numbers are way off, you may have a damaged ADC channel.
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@engikeneer Yes last night I pulled the extruder gear and gave it a thorough cleaning. No missing teeth and I cleaned out all the plastic in it. After doing so, the same problem presented.
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@mendenmh I have resistors on hand, I will try this and see what happens.
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@mendenmh Alright, I made a 100K resistor jumper and a 1K, tested them both out and got temperature readings of 25.4C for the 100k and 163.6C for the 1K. So it seems like the ADC chip is fine. At this point, really seems like there's something up with the readings coming off of my thermistor, or my heater cartridge isnt working properly. But seeing as both of my V6 hotends are doing the exact same thing...this seems to me to speak to some form of software issue...just not sure what.
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What's you duet input voltage? If I'm correct, the heater outputs run at the input voltage.
The Prusa heater cartridge is expecting 24V, so if you are running your Duet board at 12V input, you're running you heater at half power. This would result in the symptoms you've been seeing.
So verify that the hot end heater is rated for the actual heater output voltage you are using.
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@mikeabuilder If I recall correctly, Prusa switched to 24v with their MK3 system. I'm running a MK2S, which is running 12v. I know this because the bed level probe I'm using is 12v which I direct soldered to one of the the PSU output cables.
Now your question does make me wonder about my PSU and whether or not I'm providing enough current to my duet board. The PSU I'm using has 2 12v output leads. For the previous board which the duet is replacing, Both of those output leads fed into the board directly and then all the peripherals were powered off of that.
For the duet board, I took one of the 12v leads, tied it into Vin and took the other and used it to power my Z probe. Could it be that I'm not giving enough current to my board?
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The very first step that you should have done is to actually verify your operating temperature on your nozzle as reported by the temperature graph on the Duet web interface. I don't recall if you have reported that as having been done but it would be silly to start any thread complaining about poor extrusion if you haven't even verified temperature as reported by the temperature graph. I therefore assume this was actually done..
If you are running a 24V heater with a 12V input voltage then you are actually running at (I believe) one quarter of the rated output power and not at one half. With such a low output power, you would never achieve a proper nozzle temperature and your Duet board would shut down with a temperature fault.
In other words, it is highly unlikely that you have a heater to input voltage mismatch.
Please confirm that the temperature graph reports the correct temperature that you have set for your nozzle and that it doesn't wildly dip as soon as the part cooling fab starts up or you start printing (I am pretty sure that any of these fault conditions would result in an immediate heater fault that shuts down everything).
