Zortrax M200 Duet Conversion

Corexy

I don't think the failure of Pronterface to connect is caused by enabling netwoking. I think it's caused by the USB port being reset when the Duet resets after you apply the new settings.

Which version of Windows are you using? I remember that when I was using Windows 7, I found that after resetting the Duet, Pronterface would refuse to connect because Windows thought the port was still busy. Pressing Disconnect in Pronterface before resetting the Duet avoided the problem. When I forgot to do this, I had to exit and reload Pronterface to get connected again. Sometimes I also had to disconnect and reconnect the USB cable. The problems went away when I upgraded to Windows 10 (I think this is the only benefit I got from the upgrade).

Once you have the web interface working, you shouldn't need to use Pronterface anyway.

Thanks David.

I am using Windows 7 as it goes, so that might be it.

I'm also now unable to open the interface at all (IP Address 192.168.1.101), and it's all starting to get me down a bit I must admit.

So basically, now that it's set up I don't bother with Pronterface, so I'm doing everything via wifi now?

So I can disconnect the USB cable and turn the power on?

Any reason I can't open the interface? I'm using Opera for a browser, but IE wouldn't open it either.

dc42

If you can't connect with the web interface, go back to using Pronterface so you can see what is reported when you send M552 S1 to start the network. Use Windows Device Manager to check that the Duet USB port has appeared.

If you have a PanelDue with a 7" screen attached, USB power alone is insufficient.

I have seen Windows 7 occasionally disable a USB port. Rebooting Windows gets it back.

Corexy

Ok,

It's all connecting with the M552 S1 un commented, so to enter M552 S1 through Pronterface I must first run M552 S0 to disconnect it.

I also exempted http://192.168.1.101 from my browsers ad blocker, not sure if that helped.

It seems I can only open the interface when the Duetwifi is powered up? (told you I was a noob).

So where to now??

I'm now looking at "Configuring RepRapFirmware for a Cartesian printer" but it hardly looks straight forward to me at least.

I'm assuming I now close Pronterface, disconnect the USB, and connect via the interface?

Was there an auto calibration I can run?

Cheers again

Corexy

Here's a start…

M111 S0 ; Debug off
M550 ZortraxM200 ; Machine name
M551 Preprap ; Machine password (used for FTP)
M552 S1 ; Enable WiFi
M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1 ; Comms parameters for PanelDue
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

dc42

Try using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate your configuration files. One thing it doesn't yet get right is the homez.g and homeall.g files if you use a microswitch for Z homing instead of a Z probe.

Corexy

@dc42:

Try using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate your configuration files. One thing it doesn't yet get right is the homez.g and homeall.g files if you use a microswitch for Z homing instead of a Z probe.

Cheers again.

What would I enter for "firmware compatibility"?

It's got Marlin by default, but wouldn't it be Reprap Firmware?

I pressed "Home" on the paneldue, and both X and Y traveled in the opposite direction they should if they were to operate the Z limit switches.

Would that mean I need to reverse the 2 drives? Which ones please?

As well as that, the configurator describes motors as "M584" when it seems to be "M569" in the config file. Or am I wrong or need to change it to M584?

It all started up on 24v fine by the way.

deckingman

@dc42:

Try using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate your configuration files. One thing it doesn't yet get right is the homez.g and homeall.g files if you use a microswitch for Z homing instead of a Z probe.

And the other thing it doesn't do right is configuring the microstepping. It generates M350 X16 X16 X16 X16 I0 (that's for 1 extruder) when it should be M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1. i.e. it doesn't set microstepping for Y,Z and the extruder(s) but more importantly, it turns microstepping off when the default is on.

Corexy

OK, so which firmware setting should I use?

I'll go through page by page, and ask the "for dummies" questions as I go.

I did reverse the X and Y motors as mentioned above, and actually got it to home against the end stop switches…small noob victory!

iDevelo

Set it to Marlin. Leave your motors at 16x micro stepping then edit your config.g after you have uploaded it and set the I parameter in the M350 line to 1

Corexy

@iDevelo:

Set it to Marlin. Leave your motors at 16x micro stepping then edit your config.g after you have uploaded it and set the I parameter in the M350 line to 1

Thank you.

So I've gone through the configurator and haven't changed much other than the dimensions of my bed, probing points offset, I've made XY probing active high/high end, Z probe at high end.

All other values I've just left as is.

My concern now is the heater probe settings.

I have a standard Zortrax thermistor on the bed with a resistance of 123.5kohm, and an S3D PT100 on the extruder. (I will change the bed to a PT100 later, but want to see it work for now).

Also should I use PID or bang bang for the bed?

The PT100 is connected to RTD1 on the daughter board, and the thermistor is connected to the bed sensor plug on the board near the bed heater terminal block.

I haven't changed any of the offset/jerk/current/etc settings as I'd assume they are set at a reasonable starting point and can be tweaked later as we see how this all goes.

Also, if I go to finish the configuration, it gives me 13 files to download.

Do I delete all the files already on my Duetwifi's SD and replace it with all of these, or just the config.g file?

Bit frustrating as I'm on the other side of the world and have to wait for people in other timezones before I can move on, but I really appreciate (and need) all the assistance.

Cheers again

dc42

The configuration tool gives you the option to download a zip file. If you do that, you can upload that zip file via the General tab of the Settings page of DWC, and it will upload all 13 files in one go.

Corexy

@dc42:

The configuration tool gives you the option to download a zip file. If you do that, you can upload that zip file via the General tab of the Settings page of DWC, and it will upload all 13 files in one go.

Ok, thank you.

Do I delete the existing files first or will it overwrite them?

Can you help with the other questions regarding settings?

dc42

It will overwrite them.

The only other configuration question I saw in your previous post is whether to use PID or bang bang for the bed heater. I suggest you start with bang bang and switch to PID when you have run auto tuning on the heater.

Bobblejot

Go to Zortrax and get the specs for your machine e.g stepper motor sizes thermistor types etc… , its basically an ultimaker clone so for basic parameters

X axis homes to min
Y axis homes to max
Z axis homes to max

X axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

or

X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 1600 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

normally xy are 0.9° degree and z is 1.8°

so..

X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

You need to check your stepper motor specs to be sure.

X axis max speed 18000 # mm/min
Y axis_max speed 18000 # mm/min
Z axis max speed 4800 # mm/min

X max travel 213 # max travel in mm for alpha/X axis when homing
Y max travel 179 # max travel in mm for beta/Y axis when homing
Z max travel 195.8 # max travel in mm for gamma/Z axis when homing

X axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Y axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Z axis current 1.0a ; 1000ma

E current 0.8 or 1.0a ; 800ma or 1000ma
E steps per mm 800 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper
E default feed rate 2700 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
E acceleration 1000 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
E max speed 45 # mm/s
E retract_length 5 # retract length in mm
E retract feedrate 45 # retract feedrate in mm/sec
E retract zlift length 0.15 # zlift on retract in mm, 0 disables

These are just sort of basic settings for an ultimaker clone, they will need to be tweeked for your Zortrax. But they might give you a starting point or just confuse you more

Corexy

@Bobblejot:

Go to Zortrax and get the specs for your machine e.g stepper motor sizes thermistor types etc… , its basically an ultimaker clone so for basic parameters

X axis homes to min
Y axis homes to max
Z axis homes to max

X axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

or

X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 1600 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

normally xy are 0.9° degree and z is 1.8°

so..

X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

You need to check your stepper motor specs to be sure.

X axis max speed 18000 # mm/min
Y axis_max speed 18000 # mm/min
Z axis max speed 4800 # mm/min

X max travel 213 # max travel in mm for alpha/X axis when homing
Y max travel 179 # max travel in mm for beta/Y axis when homing
Z max travel 195.8 # max travel in mm for gamma/Z axis when homing

X axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Y axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Z axis current 1.0a ; 1000ma

E current 0.8 or 1.0a ; 800ma or 1000ma
E steps per mm 800 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper
E default feed rate 2700 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
E acceleration 1000 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
E max speed 45 # mm/s
E retract_length 5 # retract length in mm
E retract feedrate 45 # retract feedrate in mm/sec
E retract zlift length 0.15 # zlift on retract in mm, 0 disables

These are just sort of basic settings for an ultimaker clone, they will need to be tweeked for your Zortrax. But they might give you a starting point or just confuse you more

Thanks very much.

Zortrax will not tell me a thing, they are very difficult that way which is the reason for this project.

I would suspect all the steppers are basic 1.8 degrees, and I have taken resistance measurements for all of them before I started if that will help. I'll use your settings for 1.8 deg with 20T pulleys for starters.

X axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screw

I should point out that the Z screw is 12mm by 4mm pitch. I have replaced one in the past. Does that mean I'd use 1600 steps/mm for 1.8 deg stepper?

X max travel 213 # max travel in mm for alpha/X axis when homing
Y max travel 179 # max travel in mm for beta/Y axis when homing
Z max travel 195.8 # max travel in mm for gamma/Z axis when homing
Are these ultimaker dimensions? My Zortrax's physical travel dimensions are 195/195/175 respectively, so I'll use those?

X axis homes to min
Y axis homes to max
Z axis homes to max

X and Y limit switches are both in the front left corner of the gantry in the Zortrax. Will this still apply?

Thanks very much for such a detailed reply.

While this is all new to me, this config tool is certainly helpful.

Corexy

@dc42:

It will overwrite them.

The only other configuration question I saw in your previous post is whether to use PID or bang bang for the bed heater. I suggest you start with bang bang and switch to PID when you have run auto tuning on the heater.

Sorry, yes a couple of my questions were worded as statements.

I have a standard Zortrax thermistor on the bed with a resistance of 123.5kohm, connected to the bed sensor plug on the board near the bed heater terminal block.

I have an S3D PT100 on the extruder connected to RTD1 on the daughter board.

What settings would I use for these in the config tool?

dc42

For the bed thermistor, if you measured the resistance as 123k at room temperature, it is probably 100k at 25C. So enter 100000 as the R25 value. Try 4000 for B and zero for C. Leave the sensor channel set to ADC0.

For the nozzle, just set the sensor channel to RTD1 which means the first PT100. The other parameters don't matter then.

Corexy

OK,

So at this point I have it sort of starting to work.

As I've got a million questions no doubt regarding setting it up, I think I'll start a new thread in "tuning and tweaking" and save this thread for Zortrax specific mods and developments.

I must say the wifi is working fine with my portable router sitting beside the machine and my laptop right at the other side of the house.

Thank you very much for the help so far.

Bobblejot

Yep those were the dimensions used for the ultimaker bed, so use your Zortrax dimensions.

Sorry for your 12mm lead screw i dont know what thread pitch Zortrax are using.

Do you have a serial number for the printer because you could always download the latest firmware from their site. Then you can get all the original values from the actual firmware as starting point.

For your limit switches it will probably be

X axis homes to max
Y axis homes to min
Z axis homes to max

Bobblejot

Oh forget to say, when i saw your pictures it didn't look like there was a ground connection from your power supply to the chassis probably would be a good idea since its a metal cased printer.