Looking for some help on a Creality Ender 5 config.
-
Hi all. Trying to figure out what is causing to happen on my ender 5 config with the duet 2 wifi board.
-
Can you post your config.g and your slicer settings?
It kind of looks like you're using a lot of perimeters rather than infill? -
Sure thing. This is the config.g info.
; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 1.21)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Sat Apr 27 2019 01:04:58 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time); General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves; Network
M550 P"Magic Box" ; Set machine name
M551 P"" ; Set password
M552 S1 ; Turn on wifi
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; Enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E64 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00 E407.44 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z180.00 E120.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z1200.00 E1200.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E250.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800.00 Y800.00 Z800.00 E800.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X230 Y230 Z300 S0 ; Set axis maxima; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S1 ; Set active high endstops; Z-Probe
M558 P0 H2 F120 T6000 ; Disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
M557 X15:6 Y15:195 S20 ; Define mesh grid; Heaters
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; Disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C; Fans
M106 P0 S0.65 I0 F20 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S0.65 I0 F20 H-1 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P2 S0.85 I0 F5000 H1 T100 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Automatic power saving
M911 S12 R20 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; Set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss; Custom settings
M552 S1The slicer i have used 2 of them with pretty much the same results cura 4.0 and the one that came with the ender 5.
cura 4.0 my gcode start it this
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0end is
M83
G91
;G1 F1800 E-3
G1 F3000 Z10
G90
G28 X0 Y0 ; home x and y axis
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motorslayer height 0.15
line width 0.4
wall thickness 1mm
wall line count 2
top/bottom thickness 0.6mm
top layers 4
bottom layers 4infill density 10%
infill pattern Trianglesprint temp (using pla) 220
build plate 75
enable retraction onprint speed 55mm/s
wall speed 27.5 mm/s
top/bottom speed 28mm/s
enable jerk control on
print jerk 15mm/s
wall jerk 15mm/s
outer wall jerk 15mm/s
inner tall jerk 15mm/sfan speed 80%
build plate raft
if i missed anything that might help figure this out please let me know and i will post it.
-
So the base of the cube looks over heated. This is pretty normal for such a small part. However, I think it's pretty likely that your thermistor values are a bit off, which could mean you're printing much hotter than you think you are.
See this thread: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9464/m305-thermistor-values-for-the-duet-maestro-on-the-ender-3-pro/9
Assuming the Ender 5 uses the same thermistor as the Ender 3, you may have better results changing up your M305 commands for your heaters to be
M305 P0 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200 M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200Then you should do a PID auto tune again: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control#main
That should hopefully get your temperatures set properly. Might be a good idea to print a temperature tower as well just to dial in a good temp setting.
You may also want to look into printing a fan shroud mod to improve the directionality of your part cooling.
print temp (using pla) 220
build plate 75220 may be a bit high for your PLA for such a small part. And 75 on the bed is definitely too high for such a small part.
Try printing something larger or print two of those cubes to give each layer more time to cool down.
-
looks like you might be right on the thermistor values.
10:18:06 AMWarning: Heater 0 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 219C.
Auto tune heater 0 completed in 1000 sec
Use M307 H0 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g
10:06:30 AMAuto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 100.2
10:06:23 AMAuto tune phase 2, heater off
10:01:31 AMAuto tune phase 1, heater on
10:01:25 AMM303 H0 S100
Auto tuning heater 0 using target temperature 100.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended
9:59:52 AMWarning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 494C.
Auto tune heater 1 completed in 231 sec
Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g
9:57:42 AMAuto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 249.4
9:57:33 AMAuto tune phase 2, heater off
9:56:06 AMAuto tune phase 1, heater on
9:56:01 AMM303 H1 S240
Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattendedgoing to try another cube and will drop the temp to 215 nozzle and 60 bed and see if this has helped any. The reason i went with 220 on this is with the old marlin board that came with the system it printed the best at this temp for the amazon basic black pla. The reason i switched over to duet was the system was so loud printing and i wanted a quieter system with better controls. will post up the result of the new print when they are done.
-
220 for pla is quite high.
Its normally 185C to about 205C.you might want to print a temperature tower. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504
-
I will give this a try as i am getting tired of printing flawed dice all day lol. This is what they recomend for the filament i got.
-
temp tower came out ok still getting some sloppy corners but bridging came out a bit crappy. Ran a 190-235 tower it everything 200 and up was ok 190 was a no go. nothing but string at the top.
I had taken off my TL-smoothers from when I was running on the stock marlin board do you think I should add those back on?
-
@melfesto said in Looking for some help on a Creality Ender 5 config.:
I had taken off my TL-smoothers from when I was running on the stock marlin board do you think I should add those back on?
tmc drivers do not need tl-smoothers.
-
That looks like Amazon Basics Black PLA. I print that at 210-220c. So that checks out.
Keep in mind that you're printing a tiny cube on a very hot bed with a very hot nozzle dumping molten filament. It's going to look melty. Your print speed isn't very fast either.
Print something larger like a benchy. Try 50mm/s for walls, infill, and top/bottom solid infill. Increasing the print speed in the slicer will probably increase quality in this case. You may want to try 0.2 layer height as well. I'm not sure what the Z axis full steps are for the Ender 5, but on the Ender 3 it has a 0.04 mm full step resolution, so only multiples of 0.04 are full step layer heights. 0.04, 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. You're using 0.15 layer height which is a tad off from that. You can see some layer banding in your photos that could be a result of that.
If you want to fine tune your jerk and acceleration settings you can disable the acceleration and jerk control in Cura and then use the firmware values so you can change them during a print to see their effect. You can modify them at any time during a print by sending the gcode command in the console. M566 X1200 Y1200 would boost the jerk to 20mm/s for example.
Your current firmware values are on the conservative side, so the print quality should be quite good, but a little slow. Once you figure out the best jerk/accel values for each move type you can then use those values in Cura to fine tune the print moves. Slower and smoother for external surfaces, and faster for infills.
The perfect values are going to depend on your printer mechanics and resonances. Slower isn't always smoother. For instance, on my printer, 40mm/s causes a resonance that sounds pretty bad. Upping to 50mm/s and the sound disappears and movement is very smooth.
For jerk, I can get up to about 30mm/s before it starts to thunk and sound rough on direction changes. At around 8mm/s movement becomes too halted and slow downs at corners are too great. 15-20mm/s ends up being the smoothest.
For acceleration 500mm/s^2 is good for eliminating ringing on the outer walls but is too slow for other moves. 1000-2000 for infill moves is much better.
