Hall effect end stops
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I use ordinary microswitches on my delta (the ones T3P3 supplied with a Mini Kossel kit a couple of years ago), and they are reproducible to 1 microstep. So my view is that with good microswitches, you don't need anything better. In any case, if you have a good Z probe then auto delta calibration will calibrate out endstop error. I even tried running my delta without endstop switches once to prove this.
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Have you seen these Hall Endstops http://www.reprap.me/hall-e-endstop.html ?
I use them on 2 machines and they work perfectly.
Forgot you can actually just about make them out in the pictures of my latest delta on this forum https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=357
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I use these http://ooznest.co.uk/Hall-Effect-Endstop-3.3V.
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@ mjhall29 they are the same as the reprap.me ones just more expensive. They are available on aliexpress as well for alot less.
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You can also use reed sensor like this one :
http://www.mouser.fr/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=59025-030virtualkey58530000virtualkey934-59025-030I use one those one 2 printer
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Thanks for the info and links. I was just curious if there is a real advantage in homing precision because I've read about hall being more precise because of no mechanical parts. Definitely one microstep is enough precision, of course if it's a 0.9 deg microstep
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I have found mechanical switched to be repeatable enough for Homing delta axis. I tested the trigger point vs distance over 10 iterations with no difference. I was moving the axis quite slowly because all.my homing files move the axis quickly until the switch is triggered, then back off a bit and fine home slowly (F300).
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For me its not really the precision that matters as much as the reliability, being non-contact there is nothing to wear out so reliability increases.
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For me its not really the precision that matters as much as the reliability, being non-contact there is nothing to wear out so reliability increases.
Bear in mind that those sensors with a pot are analog devices, therefore probably sensitive to supply voltage and temperature. Also if the magnets lose their strength, the calibration will change. Finally, depending on how close the magnet goes to the sensor and how you have adjusted the pot, it's possible that the Earth's magnetic field may affect them slightly, which would matter if you turn your printer round. So don't assume that they are automatically more repeatable and reliable than microswitches.
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Thanks dc, pots are adjusted to min sensitivity setting. I use a larger magnet than the tiny ones supplied. All cables i use are lapp LiCy. Cant do much about the planet i am on but they seem to be ok
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There are plenty of 3.3V-compatible Hall effect sensors - I have a strip of them on my shelf - but the A3144 isn't one of them.
I'm using a Duet Wifi I got a few months ago and am looking for hall effect end stops. Was looking for 3.3V and noticed a lot of them are 5V. I'm reading this: https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches and it says "The endstop switches each need to be able to sink 1.5mA current for the Duet WiFi" and I don't want to buy the wrong ones.
Is there a recommended quality hall effect sensor that people use? I'm looking for specific ones that are 3-pin and are known to work with the board without issues. Any recommendations would be helpful.
edit: Would these work: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AH1815-P-B/AH1815-P-BDI-ND/5453089
