Does this board really need a calibration sensor?
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Hi there there, 1st post.
Ive been messing around with 3d printers since about February, and it seems like i still have a ton too learn. I recently purchased the Duet WiFi, Coming from a Rambo, and replicape. But I think im missing something. No where do I see any option for manual calibration, things like setting the Z axis height, or anything. I was a little disappointed to learn that i could use my BL touch too run my machine now. So i thought i could just manually calibrate it until i figure out a solution. Thing is i dont see how.
If some one could help me with setting this up and getting it printing, i would great appreciate it. As of right now the printer is connected, it moves in every axis, it homes, and heats. I just want to start printing but don't know how to set the correct z height.
My machine is a 6ft tall full metal custom delta, with carbon arms, E3d v6, heated bed, and support for dual extrusion
Im 6'3 tall
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Just go to the config.g file either through the web interface or on the SD card in the "\sys" folder and modify the M665 parameter. The H sets the bed height, the R sets the radius (for curvature of the bed). The L value adjusts for minor X,Y dimensions. If you don't know how to manually calibrate a Delta, there are lots of instructions online. You don't want to depend on any auto calibration routine until you understand how to manually calibrate it. The height of the 3D printer can make it a bit more challenging. Just make sure your belts are tight.
Example:
M665 R260.65 L442.2 B130 H364.95 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height -
As ShadowX says. After you have set the approximate M665 parameters, use the calculator at http://www.escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php to refine them.
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PS - someone did get a BLtouch working with a Duet, I think there are brief details at http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?416,704576.
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Just go to the config.g file either through the web interface or on the SD card in the "\sys" folder and modify the M665 parameter. The H sets the bed height, the R sets the radius (for curvature of the bed). The L value adjusts for minor X,Y dimensions. If you don't know how to manually calibrate a Delta, there are lots of instructions online. You don't want to depend on any auto calibration routine until you understand how to manually calibrate it. The height of the 3D printer can make it a bit more challenging. Just make sure your belts are tight.
Example:
M665 R260.65 L442.2 B130 H364.95 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed heightI'm past the point of setting up the printers dimension, and parameter. What im worried about is my hot end crashing into my bed when starting a print. Using the Marlin firmware, I was always able to set my z height too zero before a print. As well send the necessary g-code to the machine to verify that everything is leveled.
If possible how can I do this with Duet?
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It shouldn't crash if you do a test right before you print for the day. Sometimes, I intentionally set the height a little taller than the last setting and move down until the head is 5mm above the surface and manually move it down by small fractions using the PanelDue. When I get to the point where the paper is tight and the height is just right, I make a note of the Z height measurement. I subtract that amount from my M665 setting and I would be at the exact level I need to start the print. You don't have to do this all the time, but only when you think the height changed. If you want the height to be automatically checked each time, you need to buy DC42's IR probe and replace the BLTouch with that IR sensor. I my opinion, its much better than the BLTouch since it senses the height distance and not just an on/off switch when the pre-set dimension is deteced by the sensor. It looks like your bed should work since its opaque and black.
There is a workaround to use the BLTouch on Duet that DC42 mentioned in another post.
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?416,704576 -
It shouldn't crash if you do a test right before you print for the day. Sometimes, I intentionally set the height a little taller than the last setting and move down until the head is 5mm above the surface and manually move it down by small fractions using the PanelDue. When I get to the point where the paper is tight and the height is just right, I make a note of the Z height measurement. I subtract that amount from my M665 setting and I would be at the exact level I need to start the print. You don't have to do this all the time, but only when you think the height changed. If you want the height to be automatically checked each time, you need to buy DC42's IR probe and replace the BLTouch with that IR sensor. I my opinion, its much better than the BLTouch since it senses the height distance and not just an on/off switch when the pre-set dimension is deteced by the sensor. It looks like your bed should work since its opaque and black.
There is a workaround to use the BLTouch on Duet that DC42 mentioned in another post.
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?416,704576Would you recommend the IR sensor over fsr? If I go with a new style of sensor for the duet I want the most relaible, and one that works with the parts I have.
My bed is a heated onxy board with Boro plate glass on top. I'm worried the IR sensor will have a problem with this.
The Fsr sounds like a good alternative, but I'm worried of it making my build surface not as stable or stiff. Which could allow shifting in my prints. As well as the heated bed interfering with fsr, but these are just speculations.
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For manual calibrations, if I subtract the z height from the M665 setting ill have the proper z height for sure. Though what about the consistency on the rest of the build surface? Again my Rostock max had a preset g-code that would move the effector to various points on the build plate. And from there I was able to adjust the end stop screws untill they were pretty equal all the way around the build plate. This was the manual calibration I used too insure in could at least print ok'ish.
Now does the duet firmware have anything simailr for me too do the same? A pre set g-code command to put the hot end in pre set coordinates, to allow me to adjust them. Or would I ultimately need some sort of calibration sensor?
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You can use macro files to set up commands to move to preset positions.
I don't know the onyx bed but if the borosilicate glass plate is removable then putting a sheet of black paper between it and the bed plate should resolve any issues with the IR sensor.
I think forum user mhackney uses FSRs with an onyx bed.
That's a tall printer! What size vertical extrusions does it use?
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It shouldn't crash if you do a test right before you print for the day. Sometimes, I intentionally set the height a little taller than the last setting and move down until the head is 5mm above the surface and manually move it down by small fractions using the PanelDue. When I get to the point where the paper is tight and the height is just right, I make a note of the Z height measurement. I subtract that amount from my M665 setting and I would be at the exact level I need to start the print. You don't have to do this all the time, but only when you think the height changed. If you want the height to be automatically checked each time, you need to buy DC42's IR probe and replace the BLTouch with that IR sensor. I my opinion, its much better than the BLTouch since it senses the height distance and not just an on/off switch when the pre-set dimension is deteced by the sensor. It looks like your bed should work since its opaque and black.
There is a workaround to use the BLTouch on Duet that DC42 mentioned in another post.
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?416,704576Would you recommend the IR sensor over fsr? If I go with a new style of sensor for the duet I want the most relaible, and one that works with the parts I have.
My bed is a heated onxy board with Boro plate glass on top. I'm worried the IR sensor will have a problem with this.
The Fsr sounds like a good alternative, but I'm worried of it making my build surface not as stable or stiff. Which could allow shifting in my prints. As well as the heated bed interfering with fsr, but these are just speculations.
I don't have experience with FSR. The last I read about it, the issue is with the heated beds and the accuracy of the detectors at higher temperatures. Some people added insulation or redesigned the bed to isolate the sensors, but I haven't looked at what is available recently. Someone moved the FSR to the effector to detect the forces similar to a microswitch. I'm not sure how effective that was. I'm sure someone can chime in.
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You can use macro files to set up commands to move to preset positions.
I don't know the onyx bed but if the borosilicate glass plate is removable then putting a sheet of black paper between it and the bed plate should resolve any issues with the IR sensor.
I think forum user mhackney uses FSRs with an onyx bed.
That's a tall printer! What size vertical extrusions does it use?
It uses 1x1 tslot. I haven't had any issues with, this is literally a fully upgraded Rostock max. I haven't had any issues before with calibration or printing discrepancies. The reason for it being so tall is that i use this machine for prototype models of a bike frame im designing. The tall towers allow me to print the tubs in larger sections vs smaller multiple sections. This gives me a straighter and more accurate frame when its put in a jig, so its less fuss on my end.
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Off topic, but wow! Good looking big prints!
