Zortrax M200 Duet Conversion
-
The only PT100 sensor I have used is the E3D one. Do you have a distributor for E3D in Australia?
There are in theory two slightly different sorts of PT100 sensor, based on European and American standards, but according to Wikipedia the American standard isn't used much these days.
-
What's the best way to go with the fans for the Duetwifi?
I'm assuming 24v was the way to go, regardless of being always on or controlled?
The Zortrax is weird in the way that it uses a big 24v fan to cool the board (always on), but then uses 12v for the heat break and print cooling fans.
I'm happy to use 24v all round if that's the best way to go.
From what I've read it's got to be all the one voltage for this board?
-
Yes fans are all 24v. If you want to use the Zortrax 12v fans, you can do so by using a 24vdc to 12vdc converter.
Edit. That's assuming that you are using a 24v power supply. Basically, the fans are whatever voltage you are powering the duet with.
-
Yes fans are all 24v. If you want to use the Zortrax 12v fans, you can do so by using a 24vdc to 12vdc converter.
Edit. That's assuming that you are using a 24v power supply. Basically, the fans are whatever voltage you are powering the duet with.
Thank you.
I'll just buy new 24v fans rather than add a converter.
Really struggling with fitting this IR probe anywhere near the nozzle.
I'm assuming I can set the 5 (I'll just use 5 points for this small bed) locations of the level checking function in the firmware?
-
Really struggling with fitting this IR probe anywhere near the nozzle.
Me too. I have a great big fat cone shaped diamond hot end nozzle. The best I can do is offset to one side by about 17mm. Not ideal but I'll have to live with it.
-
Really struggling with fitting this IR probe anywhere near the nozzle.
Me too. I have a great big fat cone shaped diamond hot end nozzle. The best I can do is offset to one side by about 17mm. Not ideal but I'll have to live with it.
Yeah, I'm looking at about the same distance at back of the nozzle.
Too much stuff to tuck in all around the hot end.
Been at it with the prototypes all day, but might have the final take on the printer right now (hopefully).
-
When you do the probing file make sure the probe points go round the bed in a clockwise direction (Viewed from above) and the finish with the centre one
Doug
-
Bit further along.
Mounted the board with the antenna facing the ventilation holes, in the hope that I can sit my portable wifi dongle right beside the printer and get a reasonable connection.
All existing cables that are being used have been fitted with plugs to suit the Duet, time to start running all the wires up to the hot end. I'll be taking a bit of time/care with the wiring loom so it's all laid out very neatly and secured nicely at each end.
Despite looking like they are pulled tight, the stepper motor cables are quite loose….I even went for another look after seeing the picture lol. Optical illusion.
Got my dual fan/IR probe housing almost perfect (never mind the crap brown filament, I'm using it up on prototyping). The probe is miles from the nozzle but I don't care as I'll be using a precision cast ally build plate with Printbite on top, which I'll level manually with a feeler gauge like I always have.
Fans fitted are dodgy old 12v's I had laying around while I wait for my 24v fans to arrive.
-
One concern though….
I can position the nozzle for setting the height in the start so that it's over the build plate, but if I'm using the full plate for a big print the sensor will be outside the edge of the plate over open space.
Is that going to be a problem??
My understanding is that it's just used for level checking and setting the nozzle height for the first layer, and that after that the layer heights are set by the steps of the Z axis stepper.
Is that correct?
-
You can configure the XY offsets of the nozzle from the probe in the G31 command in config.g. Then all you need to do is choose bed probing points to put in bed.g that the probe can actually reach.
-
You can configure the XY offsets of the nozzle from the probe in the G31 command in config.g. Then all you need to do is choose bed probing points to put in bed.g that the probe can actually reach.
Thank you,
I understand that I can set the bed probing points, but as the print progresses past the first layer is it all right if the probe is outside the edge of the build plate?
-
I understand that I can set the bed probing points, but as the print progresses past the first layer is it all right if the probe is outside the edge of the build plate?
Yes, as long as it doesn't collide with anything or short against anything.
-
-
Just putting my wiring loom that will replace the "Z" ribbon cable together.
I've got:
4x 24awg for the extruder stepper
2x 20awg for the heater
4x 28awg for the PT100 (I've chosen to use the 4 wire configuration)
4x 28awg for the print and heat break fans
3x 28awg for the IR sensorAll wire is silicone insulated RC wire, and I've done them in bundles as listed above with little bits of heatshrink every 6 inches to keep them from getting unruly.
I'll use either the spiral wrap or blue mesh tube shown around the lot.
Just wondering if there'll be any interference/signal issues having them all side by side??
I'd assume not, as the ribbon cable carries them all, but I thought I'd ask.
-
It shouldn't be a problem. The thermistor and Z probe wires may pick up some interference from the extruder stepper wires, but both are filtered at the Duet.
-
It shouldn't be a problem. The thermistor and Z probe wires may pick up some interference from the extruder stepper wires, but both are filtered at the Duet.
Cheers David.
-
I'm going to convert my CoreXY Dbot to a Duet Wifi soon, maybe. I might sell if it I can and get another Delta. but nice project you have going, hopefully you'll get it up and running soon!
-
I'm going to convert my CoreXY Dbot to a Duet Wifi soon, maybe. I might sell if it I can and get another Delta. but nice project you have going, hopefully you'll get it up and running soon!
The Zortrax M200 is a very rugged and reliable H bot machine, but they are an absolute pain in the arse to deal with when something goes wrong.
This will be a good start for me with setting up a Duet powered machine, and give me the grounding I need for my Core XY project.
I have to get it up and running soon as I've only got one machine to use.
-
I'm assuming the Z heater element is 24v/40w, but it has no markings.
Its resistance is 13 ohm…does that sound right?
-
13 Ohms at 24V would equate to 44W so that sounds right
