[SOLVED] Part-Fan not running
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Did you follow our recommendation to install the rods with alternating magnetic poles around the effector? This usually solves that problem.
If that doesn't work, you could install short spacers between the ball studs and the PCB, to keep the rod ends at a greater distance from the fans.
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Yes, have done them in correct Order (first they are labeled and additional you can check it if you put them together). I've changed them too.
Even if i put the Rods away from the Fan-Connector it will stop running at the same height.
I've found another spare 24v 40mm Fan and it looks exactly the same. I'll change it to Duex and try with some branded Fans. These cheap Chinese-Fan's drives me nuts
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No chance.
Even with a high branded Noctua on 12V it will still stops at the same height. That is crazy. Can i bump the Frequency up?
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Will measure the Voltage going out of the Connector.
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Running Fan 11.8579V
Going to the Height where the Fan will not be running anymore:
Voltage 0.1852V
So the Motor will not stop due to magnetic field the Smart-Effector will not power the Fan anymore.
Any thoughts David? That is unusual.
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Put Fan0 directly to Duet, Fan5 to the Effector. And running Tool with Part-Fan 0:5 and it will at least not come from Duet, cause if the Problem happen, Fan0 will still run but Fan5 will stop.
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Further Test:
Even if i remove the Haydn Rods and hold the effector in my hand. As soon as a go down the Fan stops.
Will now try to put a long cable from FAN0 Port on Duet to a further Fan without connecting it to the Effector and try if this makes a difference. But i'm somehow running against a wall...
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@mos-tekknix said in Part-Fan not running:
Further Test:
Even if i remove the Haydn Rods and hold the effector in my hand. As soon as a go down the Fan stops.
If it's sensitive to position, it sounds like a bad crimp connection in the fan cable to me, or possibly bad soldering where the 6-pin connector is soldered on to the effector PCB. Does the soldering look OK? Can you make the fan turn on and off by waggling the cable?
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Will try. Using iwiss Crimp-Tools all the time and never have had a bad crimp. Thanks for getting back.
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Have waggled as hard as i can, no difference. As expected the Crimps are good enough.
Anyhow, i've resoldered the PF+ and PF- Connection. It's getting better, cause now i can lower Z additional 20 Centimeters before the Fan will shutdown.
Will at least try a longer cable without the 6pol Connection to get the fan running. If this will work, i know at least that this is more a less a problem with the Terminal. Maybe i'll solder it out and replace it with something different.
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Did you check visually the soldering of the 6-pin connector on the underside of the Smart Effector?
When crimps fail, sometimes it's due to a wire fracture inside the cable close to the crimp, or a pin not locked into the shell. In such cases, pushing the cable down into the connector is sometimes what makes the connection again temporarily.
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Indeed it will be the Terminal. Putting in a Fan directly with a longer Cable directly to Duet will work everytime. The Connection looks somehow okay but i never trust flux. And without calling me hero, i'm doing crimping mostly every day and my tools are great. Never had a failed Electronics due to bad crimping. And after resoldering a little bit it is getting better.
Later, if i'm able to spent the time, i'll completely resolder the Terminal.
Thanks so far David.
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Have to correct myself. It's not the 6Pin-Terminal. Have soldered the Cable directly to the 2Pin-Connector of PF+ and PF-.
Here the Problem exists. It seems that here exist a problem. As said, have now used a Long-Cable and run the Fan0 directly. No more issues.
Cheers
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A further Check seems that the Effector is the Problem here.
Now, i've tried again the Calibration of my Delta and whoops. The Effector triggers itself around the same Height, as the Fan goes out before!
Is there a Way to "Reset" the Effector in same way? Currently it triggers at a Z-Height of 100mm!
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My Printbed will introduce a big magnetic Field above 48°C ....
Therefore only Option is to use B1 in the M558-Command ...
