Creality CR-10 upgrade
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exactly the same as you would do the bed I did mine last week when I changed my Heater block and Nozzle to the Copper ones.
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BTW is there a tuning procedure for pt100 sensor? I have done tuning for the bed and now its dead on target but hotend is fluctuating up and down 2.5 degrees
Is it a regular oscillation of 2.5 degrees, or a random fluctuation?
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If it is a regular oscillation, try increasing the D parameter in the M307 command for the hot end by about 20% (bearing in mind that if you are using a config-override.g file, it's the one in config-override.g that counts).
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If it is a random fluctuation, you probably have a poor connection in the PT100 wiring.
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Regarding build plate. I cant seem to find the difference between Mesh grid compensation (G29) and Auto bed compensation (G32)
When i run G29 and add G29 S1 to my starting gcode, nothing happens but when i run G32 just before a print, i can see Z lead screws move tiny bit when printing a model.
On the wiki it says G32 is obsolete, and better to use G29. But what i am missing here. My bed is quiet level at about ~0.09mm (on G32, probing 5 points).EDIT. probably it does the job. Since G29 grid is multiple points adjustments are not that noticeable.
You can run M122 and look at "Bed compensation in use" to check whether mesh compensation is active.
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Thank you. Will check it out
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I am having problems with IR probe. Last night set the probe and all was good, today morning started a print and it was 0.55mm off. I ran mesh bed compensation (G29). I have gcode so use saved bed map in my gcode starting script. I noticed this throughout the build that it is not consistent. I do mesh bed compensation probing with heated bed and nozzle.
One thing i have noticed that my IR probe LED sometimes goes very dim and sometimes goes out. Don't know if that has to do with anything.
Just ran test 3 times and i get a lot of play. Here is single point measured:
1. -1.102
2. -1.080
3. -0.595
That is no good at all -
I'm thinking now, perhaps i should run the test before each print?
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One thing i have noticed that my IR probe LED sometimes goes very dim and sometimes goes out.
You probably have a bad crimp connecting in the +3.3V feed to it.
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Done some testing as per mesh bed compensation wiki description. Set the Z=0 where paper just touches the nozzle.
save Z G92 Z0. then command nozzle up 5 to 100mm and then G30 S-1. I get these on the same spot with heated bed and heated nozzle at my print temps:
2.475
2.477
2.482
2.480
2.517
2.505
2.500
2.507
2.515
So the variation is 42uM. Is that within tolerances? I never print at 0.05 layer hight -
That's a higher variation than normal. Also it seems to be creeping up. What type of Z axis do you have, what is your Z steps/mm, and what probing speed are you using (F parameter in M558)?
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I have 2 lead screw trapezoidal system, standard prusa style @ Z402.43 steps. My speed is at F800 at the moment but i have bumped it up cause running mesh compensation each time before print. I think it was 600 when tested.
BTW, i checked my IR probe connections and they are good. LED on the probe is out completely. I did not put kapton tape on the back side of IR and my offsets are X5 Y14.5 from the heater block -
Be careful, if you don't have Kapton take on the back of the IR sensor, it could contact the heater block, and if your heater cartridge develops a short too then that will wreck your Duet.
Try a lower probing speed. You may be able to reduce the dive height to speed up probing.
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Its about 10mm away from heater. Will put some just in case. I have lowered my probing speed to 400. Will test later if it make any difference.
I have a bit of issue trying to set up my starting G code for heater sequence.
I want printer to home, heat up the bed and nozzle at the same time, then home and perform mesh bed compensation.
Something is wrong with my gcode and i ran out of ideas. It heats the bed, then does homing, mesh bed and then heats the nozzle.
Here is my starting gcode:
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M106 P2 S1 ; LED on
G10 ;
M116 H0 ;
M116 H1
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G29 S0 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y3 X-7 Z0 F7000.0 ; go outside printing area
M572 D0 S0.07 ; Pressure advance
G1 X100.0 E9 F1000 ; intro line
G1 X204 E12.5 F1000 ; intro lineI tried with M109 and M190
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Most slicers insert there own heat-and-wait commands before your start GCode. Look at the start of the GCode file to see what your slicer has actually generated.
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OK. Works with:
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
on slic3r.
Probing before each print made a huge difference and major headache solved.
Left to fix elephant foot and minor ghosting on heavy Y -
dc42, i still have some issues with mesh bed. I print a large cylinder (100mm dia) and on 2 sides it squishes filament more making it not round. and its not on x or y but diagonally I thought it was my steps but then checked my first layer closely.
I have overlayed my map with couple of points that does not add up from my point of view:
I took most extreme points.
If you look at the corner points there is 0.152 difference, the middle points are at 0.166 difference and that cant be?! I have precision ground aluminium plate ant that difference per 74mm is huge so maybe the probe is at fault.
My plate is black anodized aluminium and i have 0.5mm PEI sheet from 3D Prima:
I have ordered a inductive probe from prusa but i really don't want to use it and change what i have unless i cant come up with solution -
Have you checked whether the sensor is giving a consistent trigger height at the different probe points?
I haven't tested the IR sensor with PEI sheet on top of a black surface. Thin PEI sheet with adhesive on the underside definitely doesn't work well with the sensor, due to the transparency of the PEI and the varying reflectivity of the adhesive sheet.
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OK. So this might be an issue then. It does have 3M glue backing.
Any pointers how to setup 5V induction probe? -
Connecting inductive probes is described on the wiki page about Z probes. If it has an NPN output then it should be safe to omit the diode if the supply voltage is only 5V.
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Ah, OK, so i can use same 5V pin from expansion connector then?
I have seen you on the automatic skew compensation wish list thread mentioning manual skew compensation. I cant seem to find the description on wiki. I think i have my X, Y skew and would like to test if i am right or it is just a mirage. -
