Controlling my heated bed and SSR from DuetWifi
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It's not tuning you need to run, it's M307 H0 which just reports the heater parameters:
10:53:41
M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 90.0, time constant 700.0, dead time 10.0, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode bang-bang, inverted no, frequency defaultSo it's safe to do while printing.
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Gain 141 time constant 620.4, dead time 0.7, max PWM1.00 mode PID
So I ran the bed tuning at 75deg. Put a little tin foil beneath the bed. Now I just managed to reach 130deg!
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SSD that failed was bought from ebay:
Solid State Relay Module SSR-25DA 25A /250V 3-32V DC Input 24-380VAC Output GT
"futek" brand
( 182110092170 goodgadgetsa )
Planning to put Thermal cutout under the heatbed, in series with the 240V supply to the bed.
The cork insulation worked well and worthwhile. Limiting the maximal temperature by choosing appropriate heater wattage sounds wise to me but is only known after it is fitted. -
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If anyone here is interested, I have a pile of AC switching SSRs that were pulled from retired aerospace repair equipment, that I would be more than happy to share for the cost of postage.
Omron, Crydom, and I think one other brand, all rated for 30A or better.
No intent to profit on this, just thought to offer as I've seen the discussion about fake Fotek SSRs a couple of times now.
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Hey_Allen.
Iwas just fixing to order one.I would love to get one from you. I am sure they are probably better than what I could buy.
Tell me how you would like to arrange this. -
I was on here looking for an answer as to why my T0 heater will not cut off when it reaches the set temperature. I have ran the Auto Tuning and put in the PID's. Played around with them for a couple of hours and I still get voltage to the heater after it reaches set desired set point.
Any Ideas?
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When using PID control, the heater power will not be cut off when it reaches the set temperature. Instead it will reduce the PWM to a suitable value to maintain that temperature. You may get a small amount of temperature overshoot after it reaches the set temperature, but it should be less than 5C if the heater is well-tuned.
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I had it set to 180 and everything I try keeps it going till it faults. Its like its heating up faster than the sensor reads
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Still fighting with this heater. Either I get it to heat up right and then it cools down to fast when extruding or it heats up way to fast and goes into fault for being too hot. Tried the Auto Calibration again and it went to 303 degrees. Then it failed. Got this message:
Warning: Auto tune of heater 1 failed due to bad curve fit (G=2140.6, tc=141.1, td=5.9)
M301 H1 P.4 I.006 D.25 T0 S0.3
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M305 P2 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 2
M143 H2 S28024 volt heater in a flexion hot end. Sensor is working correctly. Just to make sure, I tried a spare.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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I suspect you are using a 12V heater cartridge with 24V power. The gain is far too high.
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I have two that are supposed to be 24v. I will try the other one.
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If you have a multimeter, I suggest you measure the resistance of the heater cartridge. See step 9 at https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en.
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I measured the resistance and sure enough, 4.4 Ohms on one and 2.9 on the other
