TEVO Little Monster Duet Ethernet Conversion
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I'm glad it's working for you. If you are using glass on top of the bed, then it's normal for the temperature on top of the glass to be 5C to 10C lower than the temperature you set.
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@Emulsifide : Any chance you wouldn't mind posting the Simplify3D profile you've been using? I've been tuning mine, and slowly progressing with better results, but would like to have something to compare against.
Thanks! -
@Ak:
@Emulsifide : Any chance you wouldn't mind posting the Simplify3D profile you've been using? I've been tuning mine, and slowly progressing with better results, but would like to have something to compare against.
Thanks!I'll answer this myself since discussing this with him elsewhere: I totally forgot That S3D provides lots of default profiles, and they have one for the TLM. Derp.
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General question (for Emulsifide or anyone else) : How did you come up with the numbers for the M665:
M665 R157 L397.1073 B175 H525 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
Specifically the L and R values? Was this based on the measurements of your machine, or did you actually find official looking numbers online somewhere?
Just wondering simply because my numbers based on measurements seem slightly different, I'm coming up with:
M665 R155.58 L395.416 B175 H525
Again, just wondering. -
Hi people,
Alot of info I can find here
But I do have a question too.
I'm no expert in wiring (yet), so feeling uncomfortable right now.
Where can I find info/pics/schematics on how to cut/rewire the connectors for the Little Monster?
I've tried googling already, but I'm still confused.Thank you
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I listed some high-level notes from my conversion here, if they help:
http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=4325#Assembly_Notes -
Hi dc42 you wrote
"It's usually possible to convert 5V optical endstops to 3.3V. Identify the resistor in series with the IR emitter in the slotted opto switch and reduce its value by about 50%. If it's a surface mount resistor and you don't have SMD desoldering equipment then it's easiest to solder a second resistor of equal value on top of the existing one." Are you able to explain this in more detail. I have two optical endstops that are 5V that i need to turn into 3.3v. I read another article of your that I will need BAT43 diodes (which I have ordered) but can you show me an image or describe how this works please -
If you convert the endstops to work on 3.3V then you don't need the diodes, they are for endstops that need higher voltages.
If you post photos of your opto endstops then I will try to help.
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Sorry there not opto sensors, I meant to say proximity sensors.
https://imgur.com/FmQV2nM -
In that case, assuming they are designed to run from 5V, you may need to connect the ground pin of the sensor to ground on the Duet endstop connector, the output of the proximity sensor to the STP pin of the endstop connector via the diode (cathode of the diode goes to the sensor output), and the +5V connection from the sensor to +_5V on the Duet. You can find +5V on the expansion connector. But from reading posts from other users, it appears that some of them got the sensors working on 3.3V.
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But from reading posts from other users, it appears that some of them got the sensors working on 3.3V.
Hi DC42 can you tell me where you read that some people have got it working on 3.3V. I have read numerous articles on this forum and others but I can not seem to find those articles. If I stay with the 5V way that you explained above will I be able to have both the X and Y sensors hooked to the same 5V pin? -
I thought I had seen users running these machines with the endstops powered form 3.3V, but perhaps I was mistaken. Yes you can power multiple endstops from one 5V pin.
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I've two TLM with the optical sensors on 3.3V, works fine.
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Do some TLMs come with opto sensors and some with prox sensors then?
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I don't think so, at least I've never seen or heard this.
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Just wondering is your machine silent with the Duet wifi board? I had TMC 2100 on my TLM and just did the duet conversion and it sounds like it did before I put the TMC 2100's in.
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I gues you've choosen 32 microstepping on all axes? Try 32 on the Extruder and 16 to 256 interpolated on x/y/z.
Config.g:
; Drives
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M350 E32 I0 ; Configure microstepping without interpolation
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
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Do I need to change this as well? When I set it to 16 per your recommendation, the head drives into the bed. Change it back to 32 and it's fine.
M92 X160 Y160 Z160 E837 ; Set steps per mm
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Figured it out. I dropped from the 160 to 80 and it seems to be working like a champ. Thanks for the assist mrac1.
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I'm going to follow this but I'm also going to take a step forward and modify the effector either replacing with a smart effector or similar. I've removed my flying extruder and done a direct mount:
https://openbuilds.com/builds/tevo-little-monster-direct-mount-extruder.6905/
This relieved some issues I had with the bowden line, however I ended up with an odd jamming issue, where at the top of the throat I would collect liquid goo (perhaps the temp was too high for this ABS) which would solidify effectively creating a blockage.
In the process of removing the blockage, I bent the pin of the BLTouch beyond repair, and began to contemplate why the BLTouch sucks. (The hard plastic of the shell of the BLTouch ought to extend down the pin shaft so it doesn't ever have a chance to bend!) For $45 to replace that's just… lame. So, the Smart Effector is probably a next step. Problem is I now have to design a new way to mount the coldend.
I'm looking forward to doing this conversion. I have yet to actually print with the Tevo Little Monster. I was able to do an extrusion.
