How Do I Calibrate My Titan Extruder and Test Print?
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Hi,
Just want to mention the following ,but not 100% sure.
Isn't it so that original E3D V6 heatsinks have M7 threads in them ,and most clones are M6 ?
From the pics in the link i can see the have M7 on the heatsink side and M6 on the heaterblock side
so they would fit the original E3D's but not the clone heatsinks.So befor you order maybe you want to check if the innerthread of your heatsinks are M7 or M6(heaterblock side is no problem they are all M6)
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If true, that's a good point. Genuine E3D V6 are certainly M7 in the heat sink and one would assume that clones would at least attempt to use the same dimensions but maybe not. As you say - worth checking.
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Your somehow right. My "Clone" Heatsinks have this Problem too. The Original ones does use M7 and they work like a charm. Now with Capricorn-Tube i'm happy.
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Mine are original V6's so I am not worried but it will be a telling point if they dont fit then they are clone heatbreaks without a doubt will report as soon as they arrive
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So, i've assembled my Setup today again.
The same Setup (some Parameters i need to change) was working with "normal" E3D-Heat-Blocks and 12v/40W Cartridges and Standard-Nozzles in a Chimera Dual Setup without any problems.
i've ordered 2 Volcano-Kits and set them (incl. the new Cartridge-Thermistors) in my setup.
Here the main - Problem starts up, it was not working, only if i use 5mm/s as Retraction-Speed and i've to slow down the Print to not more as 5-10mm/s which is horrible slow.
Today i've received an oringinal E3Dv6 Heatsink, an original E3D 12V Fan, 2 original E3Dv6-Heatbreaks and Capricorn - Tube.
I've disassembled everything and have the E3DV6-Volcano-Combination together exactly as the Assembly-Guides will show. Tighten latest with 285°C and tried to use it.
The Print looks exactly the same. The Extruder will skip (or drive back and forth due to to much pressure) cause the Filament will not constantly feeded. If i use again 10mm/s max it works without any problems.
That's driving me nuts.
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One additional Side-Node.
Regardless of the Nozzle - Size (tested 0.4mm, 06mm, 0.8mm so far) i need to lower the Extrusion Mulitplier to around 0.54 in Simplify3d if i want to set the extrusion width to the same size as the nozzle-size.
With my Standard-E3Dv6-Blocks and nozzles i need around 0.93
For me this indicates that there is a lot of plastic beeing able to be molten but why i can only print at 25mm/s without landing into underextrusion issues? That's is really annoying.
Some advice is really, really appreciated!
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The extrusion width will depend on other factors too, in particular the height of the nozzle above the bed. Don't try to print with the extrusion width equal to the nozzle width, it's not practical because of filament swell as it leaves the nozzle. Most slicers default to extrusion width about 25% greater than nozzle size, e.g. 0.5mm using a 0.4mm nozzle.
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The heater keeps shooting well over 15c hotter than specified, even though the sensor is sitting in the hotend and reading the temperature.
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Have you run auto tuning on the extruder heater yet?
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I did a M303 and it said that it wasn't tuned.
I then went and did a M307 H0, and took the results and updated the heater details in the config.g.
It's currently printing just fine, so I'll wait and see what happens…
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The extrusion width will depend on other factors too, in particular the height of the nozzle above the bed. Don't try to print with the extrusion width equal to the nozzle width, it's not practical because of filament swell as it leaves the nozzle. Most slicers default to extrusion width about 25% greater than nozzle size, e.g. 0.5mm using a 0.4mm nozzle.
Thanks David, i'm aware of this but im wondering myself why there shozld be a difference (which is really great) only in changing the E3dv6 with a 0.4mm Nozzle against the Volcano with a 0.4mm Nozzle. Same Printer, same Filament, same Parameters. Autotuned Heater which is overshooting arounf 1.2C max.
And with this Layer-Width set to the same size as the nozzlemy prints with the normal E3Dv6 looks realy awesome.
And okay with 20% or 25% more for the Slicer (that's defaults to 0,48mm Width in Simplify3d) i could live with but my extrusion (if set to 1.0) will around 0.68mm which is more than 50%.
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It finally finished a print, test cube.
It's almost perfectly symmetric at 20mm.
The only thing that needs calibrating now is whatever it takes to get the print quality improved. There's a slight wobble on the sides, and the corners are inconsistent and have a rough ridge.
Is there a wiki process for improving cornering and stepper consistency?
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My best guess would be that with the longer melt chamber and printing as you are at very low speeds, if you are using PLA, it will start to hydrolyse and become less and less viscous (more runny) which would explain why it appears to be over extruding with the Volcano compared to the standard V6.
I don't know why you are having problems at higher speeds but it sounds like heat creep causing the filament to swell or you are using too much retraction, but if you can fix that so that you can print at "normal" speeds - say 60mm\sec upwards (or faster with a smaller nozzle) then it may well fix the the extrusion amount issue. The other thing that you can try is lowering the temperature. Because of the increased surface area of the melt chamber, then for a given speed, you ought to be able to print at much lower temperatures than you are used to with the standard V6. Try 190 or even 180 for PLA. Another thing you could try, which would prove my theory one way or another is to print with PETG. This is much more stable from a viscosity point of view when left at print temperature for prolonged periods.
I don't have a V6 or Volcano so the above are just some random thoughts.
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Thanks deckingman, i'm suing with my Bowden-Setup (around 55-60cm) between 0.60 and 1.60mm of Retraction.
I'm trying to print witrh PLA+ and ABS too, my PETG-Spools are empty
In regards to the Temperature i'll try to lower it and get back.
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Nope, it needs the opposite way instead of dropping the Temperatures down i'm now at 60mm/s at 220°C. I'm more and more pointing to the Heater-Cartridge from E3D Volcano. It's the 12V Version with Blue Cables. I've not meassured the Resistance but even with reaching the correct temps, i'll try to put one of my 12V / 40W Heater-Cartridges in and do an Autotune.
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Update: Have changed the Nozzle back to 0.8mm, set the Extrusion-Multiplier to 0.77 (after calibration) to get the "opimal" 0.96mm Layer-Width for a 0.8mm Nozzle, set Temperature to 215°C and print Speed to 40mm/s
That seems to fit, no underextrustion anymore. Anyhow i will bake mal PLA-Spool at 85°C for 3 Hours in an Oven to get any kind of moisture out of it.
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Where is the config for retraction settings, and what's the basic science behind over/under/tuned retraction?
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Where is the config for retraction settings, and what's the basic science behind over/under/tuned retraction?
If you use "normal" retraction, then that is done in the slicer. If you use firmware retraction then the parameters are set using M207 in config.g but you must "tell" the slicer to use firmware retraction so that it will put the relevant G10 / G11 commands into the gcode file.
The basic science of retraction is that FDM printers are essentially hot melt glue guns - albeit accurately positioned. At the end of a print move, there is a blob of filament at the nozzle tip so when you do a non-print move, that blog will either be left behind or pulled into a string. Filament can also ooze of it's own volition due to pressure in the nozzle after a print move making that blob bigger. The idea of retracting filament is to pull that blob back up into the nozzle at the end of a print move and before a non-print move. Retraction should be set to the minimum that is required to alleviate leaving any blobs on the print and prevent stringing. Too much retraction can lead to under extrusion at the start of the next print move due to the amount of filament that needs to be "unretracted", excessive wear of the filament as it passes over the hobbed bolt in the extruder and in extreme circumstances, can lead to molten filament being drawn up inside the heat break where it will solidify and cause a blockage.
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The basic science of retraction is that FDM printers are essentially hot melt glue guns - albeit accurately positioned. At the end of a print move, there is a blob of filament at the nozzle tip so when you do a non-print move, that blog will either be left behind or pulled into a string. Filament can also ooze of it's own volition due to pressure in the nozzle after a print move making that blob bigger. The idea of retracting filament is to pull that blob back up into the nozzle at the end of a print move and before a non-print move. Retraction should be set to the minimum that is required to alleviate leaving any blobs on the print and prevent stringing. Too much retraction can lead to under extrusion at the start of the next print move due to the amount of filament that needs to be "unretracted", excessive wear of the filament as it passes over the hobbed bolt in the extruder and in extreme circumstances, can lead to molten filament being drawn up inside the heat break where it will solidify and cause a blockage.
Well said, and well understood. Thanks for that breakdown. It makes more sense, particularly having the nozzle block up twice on a couple of small prints. There's a lot of blobbing and stringing when the nozzle heats up.
I used to have a nozzle fan on, which cooled any oozing filament prior to print, and blew it off and to the corner of the bed. Fancy. I should fix the retraction settings though. I'm quite happy to do it in the slicer at this stage, seeing that it's a consistently used process with print iterations.
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Mhh, after testing and testing i'm now using the German RepRap X1000 PLA-Profile for SimpliFy3D which can be downloaded at Germam Reprap. This Profile is available for PLA / PETG and also for Dual-Nozzle and uses the 0.8mm Nozzle.
That Settings seems to fit to my machine almost perfectly.
