Upgrade Tripodmaker
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Hello,
I purchased this printer http://www.tripodmaker.com/tripodmaker-black-edition/
It's equipped with a Rumba board and an inductive sensor. I don't know anything about the hot end.
The Printer is prepared for a second nozzle.This is my wish list:
- Add a second nozzle
- Replace the inductive sensor by a piezo sensor or IR sensor the under bed piezo is no option. See image, the orange is rubber insulation.
These are my questions :
- I'm familiar with electronics but not with the hardware of a 3d printer. How hard is the replacement of the Rumba board by a Duet board?
- Would you replace the inductive sensor? If yes, by what?
- I can't figure out the hardware I need to order. Can someone help me with this? How can you determine the temp probe used (pt100 or something else)?
Thanks for the help
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1. Replacing the Rumba by the Duet should not be difficult. The stepper motor connectors may be compatible. The endstop wires almost certainly won't be, if they are ordinary 2-wire microswitches then you need to connect them to the two outer pins of the 3-pin connector on the Duet.
2. An inductive sensor is not ideal for a delta, both because of its weight and because it can't be mounted close to the nozzle. But to keep the conversion simple, I suggest you retain it for now.
3. If the temperature sensor is connected directly to the Rumba, without a converter board between them, then the sensor must be a thermistor. If you have a multimeter, you can check this by measuring the resistance of the sensor. A thermistor has a resistance of about 100k at room temperature, and a PT100 is about 100 ohms.
HTH David
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Thank you for the quick answer.
I'd like to fix all the issues I have and my wish list at once.
I know I have to do it step by step and test it.
But my calibration is never what I want it to be. I believe it's because of the inductive sensor.
On one corner of the build plate is the nozzle always calibrated too close. So I want to remove the inductive sensor…
I also want dual nozzle, I know that's the last step. I'll try to get the same setup as it is for the first nozzle. If that's not possible I'll get the original nozzle out, and insert 2 nozzles that are the same.
The advantage at getting 2 new nozzles is that I can install the piezo sensor. But I have to rebuild the head completely for that...
I've been looking at the head and I don't have place to install the IR sensor.
Or maybe the Duet handles the calibration with the inductive sensor better compared to the Rumba.My Rumba only has screw terminals for the stepper motors, and you are right the end stops are microswitches.
I'll have to open the printer to measure the temperature sensor, but I found the wiring diagram. It isn't showing a converter board
I can measure this in the weekend.Steve
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On a delta printer, it's best to use a nozzle contact probe. We sell a Smart Effector with built-in nozzle contact sensor - see https://duet3d.com/wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer - but you would have to change your rods too, and it doesn't yet support dual nozzles. DJDemonD's piezo sensor are another possibility.
The problems you are having with the inductive sensor are probably caused by the effector tilting as it moves in the XY plane, due to small geometrical errors in the printer build. This changes the relative heights of the nozzle and the sensor. Using the Duet and RepRapFirmware you can correct for this, but it's a tedious process because you need to measure the probe trigger height at each calibration probe point.
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If I understand you correctly, It is a combination of the sensor and the geometry. If I change one of those the problem is solved.
The geometry is difficult to adjust.
That leaves us to work on the sensor.The inductive sensor is a contactless sensor, a contact sensor is better. If I don't swap the sensor how often do I have to measure the probe trigger height? I did read the instructions, but it isn't looking easy to me. And the next time I want to calibrate, can I use a full auto calibration or not? And the IR sensor is no better replacement.
If I use the piezo sensor I have to modify the effector. But calibration would be much easier.
I did see the Smart Effector, but I don't like the idea of changing to that because of the rod swap - carriage swap. My printer is a good mechanical printer, it's the calibration and the board that isn't satisfying me.
I did setup octopi but I have to reset the usb port now and then on the Rumba board. But right now that isn't working.
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It not so much a contact sensor vs. a non-contact sensor, it's a sensor whose position coincides with the nozzle vs. a sensor that is offset to one side. The more the offset, the more sensitive it is to effector tilt. That's why nozzle-contact sensors are good for deltas, and also why I designed the mini IR sensor to be small enough to fit below the heatsink of the R3Dv6 hot end so that it can be close to the nozzle (i.e a small offset).
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Hello
Everything recieved. I looked at the wiki, but that's more for a "home build" 3d printer. And I lost track on the things I have to do (configuration).
I don't know the parameters I need or the value. How can I determine all those values?Can you point me to the pages / help me with the transition from a Rumba board not functional commercial 3D printer to a working duet3d "frankenstein" printer.
Thanks
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To transition the wiring, start with https://duet3d.com/wiki/Wiring_and_hardware_differences_from_RAMPS_etc. (I think connections on RUMBA are quite similar to RAMPS). Then look at the Hardware and Wiring section of the wiki main page.
Regarding configuration, you can use https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate the config.g and homing files for you, and look at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Delta_printer to get a better understanding of what the commands in those files do.
HTH David
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Thanks for the links, but I can't use https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/
My dimensions are too big
These are my dimensions Printerdimensions :42 cm x 53 cm x 101 cm, print area Ø 30 cm x 42 cm -
If the problem is that you can't enter 150mm as the bed radius, enter the delta radius and diagonal rod length first, at least approximately.
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ok, so I take the max allowed values if my values are too big. Afterwards I have to adjust the generated files.
Can you give me a list of the files that needs adjustment and the commands inside them that needs adjustment?
How can I determine the steps/mm for the extruder and x/y/z motor? -
No, your values are not too big, however you need to enter your diagonal rod length first because the delta radius and bed radius will be limited to plausible values based on the diagonal rod length.
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ok, sorry I didn't understood it at once.
Maybe swapping the left and right column on the webpage is advised?
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Probably a dumb question.
Is there a possibility to have 2 options for autocalibration? I have doors on my printer and when the doors are closed I have a printable diameter of 20 cm. When the doors are opened I have a printable diameter of 30 cm.
Is it easy to swap between 2 different sizes for autocalibration?
Everything arrived I'll be changing everything on Sunday (I hope).
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Yes, just create a copy of bed.g with the dimensions changed, put it in your /macros folder, and run it to auto calibrate with those dimensions.
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Next question, I can't find an answer for.
I have the following on my printer
-3 ledstrips connected to 1 connector (always on fans)
-1 fan at the board connected to always on fans
-1 fan for the hotend connected to fan0
-3 fans for cooling the print connected to 1 connector connected to fan1I'd like to have the following
Leds always on, Board Fan always on, hotend fan on when printing, print fans controlled by slicer off when printer is powered onHow do I do this?
Thanks
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Next question, I can't find an answer for.
I have the following on my printer
-3 ledstrips connected to 1 connector (always on fans)
-1 fan at the board connected to always on fans
-1 fan for the hotend connected to fan0
-3 fans for cooling the print connected to 1 connector connected to fan1I'd like to have the following
Leds always on, Board Fan always on, hotend fan on when printing, print fans controlled by slicer off when printer is powered onHow do I do this?
Thanks
I suggest you swap the Fan0 and Fan1 connectors. Fan0 defaults to being the slicer-controlled print cooling fan, and Fan1 defaults to being a thermostatic hot end fan.
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Next question, I can't find an answer for.
….............................................
I'd like to have the following
Leds always on, Board Fan always on, hotend fan on when printing, print fans controlled by slicer off when printer is powered onHow do I do this?
Thanks
What DC42 said about fan0 and fan1 and the rest you can find here https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans
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I powered up my ethernet board.
First thing, no network connection.
Because the Ip adres is hard coded to 192.168.1.14, and my subnet is 47.
So I had to change the IP adres to 192.16..47.80 -
I tried to calibrate.
My Z-probe sensor isn't installed yet.
I tried the manual calibration(Pressed Delta Calibration on the Machine Control), but that gives me only the possibility to change the X value, not the Z value.
Then I tried this http://www.escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php and used the G-console. After calibrating things are even worse.Is there a way to do manual calibration?
