Anycubic Delta (Trigorilla vs Duet Wifi) Wiring and configuration
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dc42 by jerk do you mean Max. instantaneous speed change? Would the extruder have the same settings? I have the same motor for it as the tower motors.
Thanks BTW!!!!!
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Looks like upgrading firmware to 1.19.2 did the trick. I thought I was upgrading web interface too but it says 1.19 still. So maybe 1.19.3 web interface is part of your beta or alpha? Anyway thanks this is moving me right along
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My steppers are the same for XYZ, and slightly longer for extruder. I think they're rated 1.5/1.7A respectively. I have 1000ma/1200ma set in config.g. Order is also counter-clockwise, X to the left of "front", Y right and Z back. Using the default x16 interpolated and it works great.
The smart effector is one of the main reasons I switched to Duet electronics. The built-in probe works well. In combo with the Duet WiFi, bed leveling issues are a thing of the past. With the 40mm axial fan dc42 suggests, part cooling is marginal for PLA. Dc42, you must print in ABS a lot, I think.
I tried first a Noctua and then a high-CFM 40mm fan; now I've got an adapter and a 50x15 radial fan sticking out the front, but that (hopefully) isn't permanent. Link to the smart effector is on the products page of this website (Duet3D). I bought mine from Filastruder here in the US. Magballs and 288mm arms I got from Ultibots. 288mm is a bit long, but works well. Original arms for the linear plus were 265mm. It's nice to be able to pop the effector loose to clean up the hotend as needed and then just snap it back on. Much less play than the stock arms as well. -
Yeah this thing has trouble with ABS. Gone2Far You say the smart effector comes with a probe? Can I see a picture of it being used on yours. Looks like that smart effector would change the distance of the rod spacing vs the top of rod connected to tower. I'll check into that at some point. Even the bed I got can't seem to hack 90 degrees very well. its 12v. What is your extruder setting? I had asked above about it being the same as towers. I felt like it didn't sound right. Maybe there is a percentage to go by on extruders vs towers?
After I auto calibrate it will not save it and everytime I turn this on I have to recalibrate. How do I get it to save auto calibration?
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OK Important things I need help with. I haven't had a successful print yet.
- How to save calibration. Because I try to make a change an after waiting for heaters to cool down and re-calibrate. So this would save me time. I mean it's cool if you have a probe to wait each time. Seems like i could calibrate it once a day or so, but making the changes it should remember.
New Problem real important.
- How to keep extruder from pushing out too much on infill or not enough on outer part. So hard for me to explain. I am making a box as a test if it prints out the outer bounds of the box just right, it stops for a second before filling the box. Creates a huge blob and gets caught in blob and cant move when it tries. If I pause print clean up and resume it clearly is pushing out the plastic to fast. However I have my extruder speed set at 10mm where as remember it's the same motor type thats used on the towers and they are set at 80mm. So as you can tell they are really going slow and I have no idea how to adjust this.
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See the wiki page on calibrating a delta printer for how to save the calibration results.
Have you calibrated the extruder steps per mm ?
Are you printing from SD card, or over USB?
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Yeah steps per min is at 80mm
Printing from USB a file that worked before on the trigorilla board and this same equipment. I uploaded it to print from the web interface. Also I am using ABS. I'm about to change to PLA and see if that will print better, but it should be able to handle ABS.
It's printing really slow too.A lot slower than I am used to. Before on the old board it always "seemed" like trigorilla overrode the speed parameter from the gcode model file. I wonder if your board is actually using it. It was always set to like 30mm a second. I am not sure though about why it would be so slow.. And again really stumped as to why the extruder would be blobbing it out like that. You know I tried to lower to extruder factor and temperature to try and slow it down and it really doesn't do what it should.
Here is the best ABS print so far and it was supposed to be a box lol I stopped it before it finished and also had paused it to clear up the blob so that is why it's in that shape. Look at the way it's printing the plastic next to itself. That is with some odd adjustments to try and get it to be better. Before it was really really weird.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PSFJGdWNJOW5vUzQ
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No, you need to calibrate the extruder steps/mm, unlike the towers that can just be set to the theoretical value. There are guides on the internet that tell you how to do this. If you can still connect to your old electronics via USB then you may be able to find out what you were using before by sending M503 to it.
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Interesting I wasn't aware of that lol A good quick way to spit it all out..
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z80.00 E96.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E200.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000
echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
echo: M204 P2000.00 R2000.00 T2000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X5.00 Y5.00 Z5.00 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm)
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Endstop adjustment (mm):
echo: M666 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Delta settings: L=diagonal_rod, R=radius, S=segments_per_second, ABC=diagonal_rod_trim_tower_[123]
echo: M665 L218.00 R101.00 S100.00 A0.00 B0.00 C0.00
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H210 B70 F255
M145 S1 H240 B100 F255
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D3.00
echo: M200 D0
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z-3.50My diagonal rod wasn't right before I see. I had reflashed it a few months ago and guess I forgot to adjust it to 215.
So I just need to look in my config.g and alike files to change values to those perhaps that will work.\
Thanks dc42 got the auto configuration to save. I can't seem to find M205 anywhere in config.g
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Ok I changed a lot and the printer actually acted exactly the same. No change in speed of anything?
Just to show you the differences in plastic. I printed a ring and PLA in on the left and ABS is on the right. So that didn't change anything either.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PZzlDMzAwWEl6ZzQ
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Ok I set the speed at 12000 and its super charged, but soon as it goes to print it's back to the same slower speed. I am not sure if it's the board or the gcode file. However I looked around in the gcode file though and I see speeds of F7800 and that should be fast enough, so it can't be that…. but the printing is more like it's going F500 or slower. but mean while the extruder is going the right speed I think hence the puddle. I mean the printer works really well moving all of the motors doing everything until I go to print.. The "Speed Factor" in print options isn't effecting the print speed when I move it.
I've been searching for the answer on the internet to see if it was something normal, but those people in links didn't get anywhere I'm still searching for the answer.
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/weird-problem-steppers-too-slow-just-printing
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6023
I started to get excited seeing this post title but the guy never even chimes back in since Jan…..
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=813Only thing I can do is show you all my config.g file and maybe make a video?
closed Printer slow down during printing circles #6023
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My steppers are the same for XYZ, and slightly longer for extruder. I think they're rated 1.5/1.7A respectively. I have 1000ma/1200ma set in config.g. Order is also counter-clockwise, X to the left of "front", Y right and Z back. Using the default x16 interpolated and it works great…
I started with similar values for the Stepper current.
But for me, with the original Anycubic Stepper Motors it was to much.I changed the values to 850mA for thy xyz Stepper Motors because they where getting hot.
Now they are getting warm, but not hot.Stefan
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FWIW, here's the config I'm using:
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Mon Oct 02 2017 12:45:31 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time); General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates…
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration.
M665 R133 L288.15 B105 H220.56 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M208 Z0 S1 ; Set minimum Z; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Define active high microswitches
M558 P5 R0.4 F1000 H5 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.30 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R110 S20 ; Define mesh grid; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes Backwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E492 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E5000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1200 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
M207 S8.0 F2700 T900 Z0.2 ; Set FW retraction length and speed
M572 D0 S0.1 ; Set pressure advance; Heaters
M143 S275 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 275C
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Network
M550 PAnycubic Kossel ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network
; Access point is configured manually via M587 by the user
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet; Fans
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on; Custom settings
M912 S-14.8
M501 ; load overrides
G29 S1 ; Turn on mesh bed correctionsNote that the steps for the extruder are high because I'm using a geared extruder. IIRC, the steps were set to 103 when I had the Anycubic extruder installed.
A short movie of the printer running here: https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=9EC08F79CB710BB2&resid=9EC08F79CB710BB2%21121204&authkey=AKLXBdJwlefm4MA
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Gone2Far, OK great I will see if those specs will fix it. Maybe the rated current for instance. Hey I like your bed holder and your lcd cover. Is your LCD a 5 inch or bigger? I have the linear too. I checked at Filastruder since it's closer for shipment I think and for price on smart effector and those rods $144.98 USD. I didn't realize they connected by magnets. Very interesting.
Meanwhile I thought everyone should see my printer trying to print out a fidget spinner which well eh you'll see just like all my other test it just gives up and blobs….
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PZ0YtelhadDU5Z28Ok I applied your driver settings, your general settings and for fun your custom settings and it did a little better, but heres the video for that!! Yeah fun sounds and yeah I forgot to change extruder speed like you said…
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PZ0FGMVg1aURqOE0 -
dc42
I have matched my old settings for motors from the old electronics here is my config file M203 and M566 had to be changed from ss to mins on the math. I used 1000 for M906 like Gone2Far Suggested. I can tell you honestly at this point my XYZ motors are running fast like their supposed to. My extruder is going too fast and it's going so fast the gear chews through the filiment. And watching it it's just spinning around way to fast. Is it your firmware version? Things I can tell you is. If I limit my speed on the extruder as to try and not have it going that fast some how it slows the XYZ motors down?????? Not sure what your firmware is doing. I have no idea what to do. I have now got my PanelDue installed and I ran some test prints from it's interface using both a file on DuetWifi's micro SD card and also another file from a SD card plugged into the panelDue. The result is the same. Sorry am looking around a lot and I am not able to solve this. Also with the PanelDue extruder options I have verified that 96 steps per mm on extruder stepper drive is correctly grabbing the correct amount of filament. So this all comes down to how the DuetWifi Firmware controls the extruder when printing.
Only other thing I can try if it's not your firmware is do you have a gcode file I can try that you know works correctly with 1.19.2 (2017-09-01) Firmware?
EDIT: I ADDED THIS: What does it mean when I move up those values below for speed on the drivers in config file and put the speed factor on 500 percent and the speed for printing doesn't change? To test this I have it do a print without the extruder having filiment and I run the heater E0 and bed off. What I am saying is the movements for XYZ really aren't fast like I was saying above I was just fooled into thinking it was faster than it is. What is causing it to not listen to all of the speed changes while printing. What is making the extruder run too fast and not in sync with the XYZ towers. What can I do. Getting this printer to run correctly is very important to us since we need a 3d printer for the collage class we are teaching in a few days…. The more it runs a print the slower and slower it gets? If I hit home or calibrate it seems to run at the speeds I set it at in config.g! Also it's kind of early to tell but I am also seeing that it isn't advancing up while printing a new layer. Do I have a bad board?
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Thu Oct 19 2017 15:59:59 GMT-0500 (Central Daylight Time); General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration.
M665 R100 L215 B80 H296.3 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M208 Z-0.1 S1 ; Set minimum Z; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Define active high microswitches
M558 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 H10 F120 T36000 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
G31 P500 X11 Y0 Z2 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R75 S20 ; Define mesh grid; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes backwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.000 Z80.000 E96.000 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X300 Y300 Z300 E300 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X12000 Y12000 Z12000 E12000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
M207 S8.0 F2700 T900 Z0.2 ; Set FW retraction length and speed
M572 D0 S0.1 ; Set pressure advance; Heaters
M143 S285 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 285C
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M305 P1 T100000 B4388 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Network
;SETTINGS NOT SHOWN; Fans
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on; Custom settings
M912 S-18.8
M501 ; load overrides
G29 S1 ; Turn on mesh bed corrections; Miscellaneous
T0 ; Select first toolM501 ;config.g override
;--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -
From looking at your video, it really looks like the calibration of Z is off, and the nozzle is scraping hard against the bed, causing the steppers to whine and slip the belts.
I think I would start by typing commands into the gcode console to test mechanical action before trying to print more.
First home with a G28 command. Try doing G1Z10, and make sure it looks like there's a centimeter between the nozzle and bed. Can you do G1X20Y20 and have the head move diagonally? Does G1x0y0 move back to center? Is it quiet moving while away from the bed?
If all that doesn't work great, printing is gonna fail too. If that's all working, recalibrate the Z height.
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Ok thanks for your reply Gone2Far! Best I can do is show this with some screen recording and video of the printer. Along with what I said above this should give everyone a good better visual of the problem…. Let me know if I should show any other aspect of this. Thanks I appreciate all time and help I really do. This has turned into my job and sort of a full time job just making sure this printer can print. When this is fixed my other problem is the extruder vs xyz sync!
Hopefully you can play Mp4. The earlier videos was large files .mov from iphone. This should be better...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PZUxBN09renBtdk0Another video just to show the problem without the bed being part of the equation.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PZUxBN09renBtdk0I'll upload to youtube if this is too blurry! Maybe download the file and play it!!
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Looking at your video, I agree that far too much filament is coming out of the nozzle. Normally I would say that your extruder steps/mm is much too high, but you have it set to 96 which is about right for an ungeared extruder. So I suspect that you have the extrusion width set much too high in your slicer settings. If your nozzle is 0.4mm then the extrusion width should be set to about 0.5mm.
Another possibility is that there is a command in your sliced gcode or homing files etc. that is increasing the extruder steps/mm. You can check this by starting a print, pausing and cancelling it when it starts over-extruding like that, then run M92 with no parameters and check that it still reports the E steps/mm as 96.
Yet another possibility is that you have sliced using absolute extruder coordinates but your printer is in relative extrusion mode because you haven't included M82 in your slicer start gcode. If this is the case, the extrusion amount will start OK at the very beginning but increase rapidly.
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Thank you thank you dc42!
I have had my nozzle set to .4mm. I did the M92 and everything was checking out with that. So I tried M82 and yes ok M82! Heres a victory video! I lost audio toward the end but I was showing what type of 3D printing I'll be trying to do for that class "Lithophanes" 3D photos. Most people aren't used to 3D printing so we are teaching how to do something simple that they may like to do that's not normally practical. The model I show was done on the trigorilla board. Instagram photo of my fiance who is the actual art teacher. I am the one 3d printing teaching her I guess lol, I'll be there doing the printing not talking lol. I was also saying thanks a bunch too!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PaHVPWWpWd0tiVmc
Finished picture! PLA, Keep in mind that layer height is set at lowest quality. I see I need to do another bed level configuration based on the brim at bottom..
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01Pa3RTalR1LUh6NFE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PSWtFVzJEMURIdmsTest box square I kept trying to print and this time after a bed level. PLA Low quality layer height.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PX2ZQdEVUSUE4cFE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nxVsZnC01PeTZsZEM1aG9kSTgIs there a way to add M82 in one of these scripts on duetwifi board to automatically select the correct type of printing.? In case I run along some files and do not know it does not have M82? Worse that could happen is the firmware would see it twice which is not a problem I'm sure.
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We recommend that you slice your files using relative extruder coordinates instead of absolute coordinates, then you need M83 rather than M82. Whichever you choose, you can put a M82 or M83 command in config.g to set the default. You may find that you have M83 in config.g already. Sending it more than once is harmless.
