directions wrong and no zero...
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@fusedeep Are you sure the endstops are wired as described in the config.g? What is the state of the endstops before you try to move? D an M119 to see stop status.
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@davea said in directions wrong and no zero...:
M119
I am not sure what config G is telling me about my endstops?
They are micro switches Normally open iirc, at the home/start point and have worked fine for years, does that match?
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When you see an axis only moving a short distance when homing (you mentioned 5mm) what you are likely seeing is the fact the the endstop sensors are triggered by default. As a result the G1 H1 moves never happen as they stop when they sense a triggered endstop sensor. The short move you see is the G1 H2 move where you back off.
Frederick
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@fusedeep If I understand correctly M119 is reporting that all stops are active. Assuming that the actual axis is not at the stop but the M119 is reporting that the stop has been hit then I would expect exactly what you are seeing.
Check that the configuration of the M574 exactly matches what you have for switches paying close attention to the !
and ^ options. -
You say your using normally open endstops. I am only doing this off memory as I am on holiday at the moment and am doing this off my phone but I am pretty sure you need to invert the pin as it is recommended to use normally closed. So to do that on the m574 line where you are defining your end stop you need to do P"!xstop"
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@fusedeep said in directions wrong and no zero...:
Main issues;
- Option to extrude does not appear on web control even when nozzle at 220 degrees. buttons greyed out.
It sounds like the tool is not selected and I don't see a
T0
in your config.g to select it at startup, so please try addingT0
at the end of config.g- When selecting home for any axis, only 5mm movement along axis. Does not continue until micro switch/es
This sounds like the endstop is already triggered at the start of the move and the 5mm movement you are seeing is the backoff movement. The last few posters have identified what needs to be done there.
If M119 says the axis are at the endstops when they are not physically there, then the endstop signal needs to be inverted.
So for each axis that says it's at the endstop when it's not actually you would need to add a
!
to the pin name to invert it.Like so
M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop"
Test homing carefully after that and make sure the axis are moving in the correct direction towards the endstop. If they move in the wrong direction, e stop/cut power. Report back if that's the case.
- Part cooling fan starts at 100% but should not, can't work out how to leave it on gcode control, it is currently not on temp control afaik.
Plus, temp controlled fan is not working, though does occasionally. Grr
; Fans M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency M106 P0 S0 H0 T40 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency M106 P1 S1 H-1 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
This section has some problems. Currently it has fan0 as thermostatically controlled to turn on when the bed temp is 40c and also assigns that fan as the part cooling fan. Fan1 is setup as a gcode controlled fan.
To be able to tell you how to fix that I need to know which fan is physically located where. Ideally Fan0 should be the part cooling fan. If that is the case the section should look like this
; Fans M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 M106 P0 S0 H-1 M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 M106 P1 S1 H1 T40 ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
M552 S2 is correct to turn on the access point mode for the wifi.
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Thanks for all of the above. it is starting to make sense.
Have the axis moving the right way, but not doing the slow bump return on homing however.
Major problem now, the green led by the wifi model is gone, so no wifi AND my laptop COM ports have literally F'd off.
So cannot connect to board at all.
Bloody annoying.
I have tried disabling com/lpt and restarting. my COM ports have literally gone and I can't fix it or connect to duet board.
Plus, there is no reason the wifi should have gone off, nothing got changed...
Really grinding my gears this time!
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@fusedeep said in directions wrong and no zero...:
Major problem now, the green led by the wifi model is gone, so no wifi AND my laptop COM ports have literally F'd off.
This is with the USB cable still connected from your computer to the Duet?
Frederick
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yes, no wifi and com ports totaly gone/dead.
Have tried a new terminal, no better.
Literally the entire com port part of my laptop is fried, AND the wifi to the duet is gone, so I cannot contact the board.
There is no reason for the wifi status to change.
This is getting silly now...
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YAT won't re install as framework won't fully update. I uninstalled yat and am now using putty, but it is showing the same errors, no com ports.
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@fusedeep said in directions wrong and no zero...:
YAT won't re install as framework won't fully update. I uninstalled yat and am now using putty, but it is showing the same errors, no com ports.
When trying to communicate with the Duet via the USB cable was the Duet board getting power from another source via the Vin connections?
Was your laptop running of it's batteries or the charger?
Thanks.
Frederick
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@fcwilt yes, board plugged into 24v feed as usual to run printer for testing.
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@fcwilt laptop on mains and battery works fine.
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@fusedeep said in directions wrong and no zero...:
@fcwilt yes, board plugged into 24v feed as usual to run printer for testing.
I cannot be sure since I don't know the details of your 24 volt power supply and your laptop but it is possible, under certain circumstances, when the Duet is getting power from both sources (the 24 power supply and the USB cable) that damage to the Duet can occur.
I'm not saying this is what has happened but it might have happened.
If your Duet is damaged and you proceed with getting it repaired or replaced you might want to consider using my approach to getting a Duet up and running. I don't use the USB connection, rather I pull the SD card and connect it to my computer via a SD card reader/writer device. Then I create a minimal config.g file on the SD card with just the commands need to get the WiFi up and running. When the config.g file is ready I return the SD card to the Duet and apply power. Once WiFi is up then I can do the rest of the configuration via the DWC editor.
Frederick
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There is the possibility that it has been damaged by a ground loop through the USB connection.
Can you show a photo of the board when connected to just USB so that we can see the lights?
Same for when just connected to VIN.
Close up photos of the board may show if a component has failed as well, such as a regulator.
You can also check with your finger to see if any component gets very hot.For more detailed steps on how to check what is working or not please go through this guide and let us now what you find.
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Duet_wont_respond -
Jesus. I won't be too impressed if this is the case. It's a 150 quid unit!
How is that even possible?
For some reason this set up has been a proper nightmare. Fusedeep was much simpler and that was my first go!
Will look at it and send images.
Rich
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@fusedeep said in directions wrong and no zero...:
How is that even possible?
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Overview/USB_ground_loops
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Well, all power supplied from the same socket block.
Unfortunately I needed to keep the usb plugged in because the wifi kept disappearing.
All cables well rated ref v-/ground.
It's been a really bad experience with duet, after the initial success with fusedeep.
It has also chewed up hours of my time.
Am extremely frustrated and disappointed in all honesty.