Duet3D PCB delta printer effector sneak preview
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yes indeed that is correct precise mount is important but the tube will locate it centrally anyway.
OK, you won. Your advices help me make another step building my delta so thanks anyway.
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I think the Nimble is the way to go on a Delta, and after my aborted fiasco with the Distech Automation 2-1 effort im going with a nimble dual on my FT-5 too
I am impatient now !!!!!
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@CaLviNx:
I think the Nimble is the way to go on a Delta, and after my aborted fiasco with the Distech Automation 2-1 effort im going with a nimble dual on my FT-5 too
I am impatient now !!!!!
Nice one Mark
Are you in Scotland?
Doug
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I hav'nt included the part fan as I use the Berdair system
Dammit will you stop showing me all these nice pieces of kit, it seriously dents my wallet
That's the second time this forum cost me money, last time was showing the 20x40 kossel corners just after i had bought a 20x20 set…..
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https://duet3d.com/wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer
on you wiki there are only instruction for duet board
could you confirm us that it will be compatible with smoothie or marlin? -
It's designed to be compatible with other firmwares. The big question is whether the sensitivity will be suitable. The x256 stepper drivers on the Duet give low vibration levels, allowing the sensitivity to be set quite high without vibration from the motors causing false triggering. This might not be the case if you use stepper drivers with lower microstepping.
The sensitivity can be adjusted by sending a serial bit stream to the effector. So if support for sending that is added to other firmwares, any possible problems with vibration could be overcome.
The effector also requires a short delay between the end of a travel move and the start of a probing move, however I understand there are versions of most firmwares with this facility now.
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This all looks fantastic. Can’t wait to order!
1. What’s the thickness of the carriage adapters?
2. Are some kind of technical drawings of the effector available (mainly for hole positioning), so I can make an adapter for my hotend?Thanks
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1. 2mm
2. I'll ask Tony to do some.
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I hav'nt included the part fan as I use the Berdair system
How did you mount the berd air to the pcb effector?
Thinking of getting it myself
-Jannis
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It is done by an adapter Doug has made up, I'm sure he will either make you one or share the .stl if you ask him.
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I hav'nt included the part fan as I use the Berdair system
How did you mount the berd air to the pcb effector?
Thinking of getting it myself
-Jannis
I just amassed the parts to make one myself after seeing Dougal1957 name his.
The kit is $35.00 plus shipping but the cost of everything to make one myself via ebay cost me $9.54 including delivery
I bought the following
X1 24v air pump 4.5 litres a minute.
X5 meters of surgical tubing (very flexible so hopefully there would be no resistance to induce any effector tilt that stiffer tube might induce)
500mm of brass tube ( i will bend it and drill holes myself)I too would like to know the hole spacing of the ballstuds to allow me to print a bracket to hold the tube nice and close to the nozzle
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Mark
The Ball spacing is 55mm on the tower side and 20mm on the short sideI Have Freecad design for a tube holder that I can share if you wish current variant is for a 3/32 inch OD Tube (The berdair one) but it can easily be modified for any size of tube. Do be aware however that there is an LED between the rods on the short side that needs to be able to shine thru the mount plate.
Let me know if you need the files and I'll find somewhere to put them.
Doug
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It's 12mm between adjacent ball stud centres at each corner. You can find the design for the bracket I use to attach a print cooling fan at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2467663. The notch is to leave space for the illumination LED.
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My Bad that's what happens when you go from memory!!
Mine for the tube is that spacing
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Thanks Guys
That's the info I needed, I did notice the LED from the wiki pictures
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@CaLviNx:
I hav'nt included the part fan as I use the Berdair system
How did you mount the berd air to the pcb effector?
Thinking of getting it myself
-Jannis
I just amassed the parts to make one myself after seeing Dougal1957 name his.
The kit is $35.00 plus shipping but the cost of everything to make one myself via ebay cost me $9.54 including delivery
I bought the following
X1 24v air pump 4.5 litres a minute.
X5 meters of surgical tubing (very flexible so hopefully there would be no resistance to induce any effector tilt that stiffer tube might induce)
500mm of brass tube ( i will bend it and drill holes myself)I too would like to know the hole spacing of the ballstuds to allow me to print a bracket to hold the tube nice and close to the nozzle
do you have a link to that air pump and do you know if it can cope with the pressure drop down the tube
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do you have a link to that air pump and do you know if it can cope with the pressure drop down the tube
The link above is to what I thought I was buying, seller messaged me and said he has no stock and would send an upgraded one at 4.5LPM instead.
But there are plenty around
And pressure drop with either of those two is no real problem 4.5LPM is way more than enough with the restriction of the pipe and the end nozzles
I could do the math but that would mean thinking, bugger that, I just know from experience those pumps will be more than man enough for the job.
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Quick and dirty bracket that will do the job
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yeah I have some of the second type that you linked to not sure about your bracket it will block the light from the LED that is on that face shining down give it a bigger cut out
This is one that Lykle has mocked up
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yeah I have some of the second type that you linked to not sure about your bracket it will block the light from the LED that is on that face shining down give it a bigger cut out
This is one that Lykle has mocked up https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/106223050856341504/342986599887273996/unknown.png
Only problem I have with Lykle's one is the need to push the tube into it, and the forces required to hold it in there, I personally would much rather be able to remove the tube without disturbing the bracket or the ball studs, in the event of requiring access to to the hot end, hence my design using a replaceable tie warp which would allow the tube to drop away leaving the bracket in place, agreed the LED might be obscured a bit, but a 2 minute change to the design can offset the tube to the side to correct that.
and on reflection Lykles bracket would fully obscure the LED
