Polycarbonate build plate…. No bed heat Success!!!
-
I have not done ABS, because I use other filaments in place of ABS but in another thread here a user commented that he tried it with ABS and 0 bed heat without issue.
-
PLA is forgiving but dont be affraid of other filaments. I recommend you try Taulman Guidline and Taulman blueprint products next they are easy to print with and have better properties than PLA or ABS. Personally I dont care for ABS and only use PLA for tinkering and prototype iteration. Honestly I love most of the Taulman line
Matterhackers has some flexibles that make printing with flex easier in their pro line.
I have not actually used it yet but ordered the sample pack of RigidInk PLA+…. many people swear by RigidInk PLA+ as being the gold standard for Tough PLA parts
I have some taulman 910 sitting in wait for acceptable print quality so i can reproduce some printer parts and ultimately some replacement parts for my old sailboat. At what point do i need to consider temp upgrade beyond aluminum? Have all metal hot end now with brass tips but am guessing copper heater block& ss tip not to mention heat sensor upgrade so i can print higher temp stuff. I thought PC was 1 of those hi temp materials, right? so guessing you are well beyond those upgrades already…
i am still a newbie but have run a couple rolls of matterhacker PLA filament that worked very well for me. this latest roll of "USA FIL" pla is almost as flexible as ABS and feels rubberized post print which is cool but tore my machine to pieces when i screwed up retract setting and am having to reinvent the wheel to get it dialed in again LOL lots to do this weekend...ugh
-
So I have not printed PC, I am printing on 1/8th inch PC build plate. Yes I have a copper heat block with copper nozzles and PT100 sensor.
The PLA+ from RigidInk is just that rigid and very strong. It actually takes much different slicer settings to standard PLA (to my understanding).
I have Taulman 910 but I recommend using Taulman Guidl!ne for your printer and sailboat parts. It is not sensitive to water absorption like the Nylons are and is stronger than their TechG and close to 910 in strength but a lot easier to print. Blueprint is another one to check out.
-
thank you Sir! i will definitely look into that.
-
Good idea sanding it, its a cheap readily available material. How well does it work with ABS? Can you print ABS cold onto PC?
I tried both ABS and PETG and both worked.
-
I've read about polycarbonate build plates before and the tenor was, the parts often stick too good. Maybe it's the sanding, that makes all the difference? Would it work with shotblasting too? I guess it depends on the stuff you shoot at it?
Where did you get the POM filament from? ( Why do they offer it, when it is "known" to be unprintable? )
I've made these 2040-sliders from PTFE, but POM would be much better I guess.Where did you find PTFE filament? I have searched and only see a press announcement of 3M's patent pending filament.
-
So just to update everyone, I am in the early testing phase of Igus iglidur filament. First I tried with the settings used for the Acetal POM, I did use 55c bed heat with Acetal because combined with a small brim, it completely eliminated warping. For Igus Iglidur though it cause some serious bed adhesion so I am retrying now with no bed heat.
One of the things that I found interesting is starting with the acetal pom temp of 220 which is the low end of iglidur, I did not get any layer adhesion and was able to seperate each layer. Inspecting it was interesting because at that temp it has a rough paper feel to it.
-
I was lazy and didnt remove the brim from the slicer settings but Igus Iglidur does not need it. It sticks perfectly to the PC with no bed heat and no warping.
I do have an enclosed printer which is recommended for this filament. Others have had success just covering their printer with painters plastic.
I will compare the Acetal Pom and Iglidur in another thread soon as i do not want to derail the thread subject but 255c was the magic temp for the hotend.
Matter hackers temps are wrong manufacturer website says 250c to 260c
-
Interesting, what product is that? From the colour it’s not J260-PF, maybe I150-PF? Would be pretty neat to print multi material parts with integrated bushings! I wonder how it combines with ABS, PC and other materials…
-
It is Iglidur I180-PF
-
Ok, looking forward to your comparison!
-
Where did you find PTFE filament? I have searched and only see a press announcement of 3M's patent pending filament.
Sorry, I meant PETG
-
Quick update here it is printing Taulman Guidl!ne filament with no bed heat… not surprizing that it sticks but figured i would share my new x carriage being printed
-
Another update:
Here it is printing flexible filament without bed heat, this is Matter Hackers Pro Flex…. I will test a print with Taulman3d's flexible filament soon but I am sure there will be no problems.
-
Im testing a new build plate for someone at the moment http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,776178,777450#msg-777450 and the issue is not adhesion, it sticks really well even at modest temperatures or no heat at all. The issue is release, ABS parts printed with any squash down on the first layer at a surface temp of more than 60 degrees are welded to the surface.
This is where established products like printbite have been carefully formulated, they need higher temps to stick but release parts at higher temps for convenience.
How does the PC sheet work in this regard? As I see it the best surface is one which is essentially permanent and long lasting, so if release is a problem and requires sharp tools this isnt likely to be the case. Otherwise the surface has to be cheap and easily replaced as its longevity is short.
-
tomorrow i have to print off some more of these bearings but then ill try Igus iglidur filament which is another self lubricating difficult to print experiment for this build plate
I know we just spoke in another thread, but I thought I'd add to this that in all of my Igus prints so far I had really no problems sticking it on my PEI sheet. The 180 printed fine most of the time without a brim. With the 170 I needed a brim, but then it worked fine too. The prints removed fairly easily from the PEI once cooled. This was heated, though, not unheated like you've just done with your PC sheet.
-
Interesting, what product is that? From the colour it’s not J260-PF, maybe I150-PF? Would be pretty neat to print multi material parts with integrated bushings! I wonder how it combines with ABS, PC and other materials…
I'm going to find out soon. I've got a Chimera on my D-bot but I've so far only been using one nozzle. I'm going to get the other side set up and running "real soon now" specifically so I can try this out.
Comparing the heat settings and whatnot a fairly close match to the Igus filament settings is PCMax from Polymaker. I don't know if the two plastics are chemically compatible to be printed up against each other and stick together, but I'll find out.
My first goal for such a combined material print with the Igus filament is to produce a one-piece bushing block for my Di3 that will be a combination of the housing that currently holds an lm8uu bearing printed out of PCMax or PETG or something like that with the lm8uu itself printed directly within the housing using the Igus filament.
-
Im testing a new build plate for someone at the moment http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,776178,777450#msg-777450 and the issue is not adhesion, it sticks really well even at modest temperatures or no heat at all. The issue is release, ABS parts printed with any squash down on the first layer at a surface temp of more than 60 degrees are welded to the surface.
This is where established products like printbite have been carefully formulated, they need higher temps to stick but release parts at higher temps for convenience.
How does the PC sheet work in this regard? As I see it the best surface is one which is essentially permanent and long lasting, so if release is a problem and requires sharp tools this isnt likely to be the case. Otherwise the surface has to be cheap and easily replaced as its longevity is short.
Mostly i dont have to squish filaments more than .02 unless dealing with something that warps. then either squishing or a modest bed temp of 55c depending on filament will prevent warping.
Removal is fairly easy the majority of time, a completed part will either twist off or the plate can be flexed to release.
But most of the time a light tap with a scraper is all that is needed.
Sometimes from too much squishing the plate can begin to have a semi gloss again which causes parts to grip too strongly but this is after a lot of printing…. a quick resand solves this issue.
-
Hi guys,
getting some 3mm PC sheet tomorrow to hopefully get over the "non stick" issues I have.
Now the question is whether to sand or not? Apply heat or not for printing primarily ABS?Thanks !
-
Always sand…. only apply heat if warping is an issue... usually a brim or mouse ears is enough to prevent warping but if you do not want a brim then i have found a little squish and 55c will prevent warping.
My rule of thumb is always to start with no heat and only add a max of 55c if necessary as heat really causes filaments to grip especially following prints because the heat speeds up the process of needing to resand again.
