Heat problems with Smart Effector
-
I'm having problems with the power to my hotend heater cutting out. I originally had a v1.3 with this problem. I repeatedly re-wired and replaced the cable-end connector, tested continuity, etc. It appeared that the connectivity would break as the effector moved around. After a thermal fault event, I could usually recover temporarily by jiggling the "input 1" connector, but the problem would always recur, often multiple times per print. The only thing I could find that would help for longer periods was to jam a small amount of aluminum foil into the connector, which presumably made for a more stable connection. Eventually, though, the Smart Effector gave out completely; it failed and I just couldn't get it to recover.
I replaced it with a new v2 Smart Effector, but it's begun to develop the same problem. Again, I completely replaced the cable-end connector with one with a built-in strain relief, but the problem has recurred and is just getting worse, after less than a month with the new Smart Effector.
Does anybody have any tips on how to get this to work reliably? Thanks!
-
@rodsmith I bought this prewired strain relieved one from digikey
https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/molex/0451320610/WM16121-ND/6208008
and had no further problems.
-
I bought something similar, but it's not really helped. I can't seem to find my order confirmation, so I'm not positive exactly what I got, but I think it was this:
https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/molex/2451320605/WM15769-ND/6565376
It helped with one fan connection that was similarly unreliable, but it didn't really help with the heater cartridge connection. I tried this originally with the v1.3 board that's now completely shot. When the problem began to recur with the v2 board, I started over with a new Molex connector, but it's not helped. I'm considering bypassing the Smart Effector entirely and wiring the heater cartridge straight into the supply wires.
-
I strain relived the whole cable by ziptieing the first 2 inches of the wire bundle to the Bowden tube coming from my extruder. I haven’t had any issues with cables breaking. Just a thought.
-
Lengthen your cables and add something like
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Retracting-Badge-Retractable-Carabiner-Individually/dp/B0016BVOM0 -
@Alex-cr said in Heat problems with Smart Effector:
I strain relived the whole cable by ziptieing the first 2 inches of the wire bundle to the Bowden tube coming from my extruder. I haven’t had any issues with cables breaking. Just a thought.
That's what I did too. Wires that flex close to their terminations always need strain relief.
-
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm using a Zesty Nimble, so there's no Bowden tube, but the Nimble's drive cable should serve the same purpose. FWIW, I've been using this with the wires tied to one of the diagonal rods for strain relief, but I suppose the Bowden tube/Zesty Nimble cable might work better.
-
You are using a high quality cable connection that I can’t imagine that would be the problem when it’s new. The nimble’s drive cable will flex less than an arm will. I would think it would help. The only other suggestion would be to use silicone wiring but I don’t think that would help much over you’re pre assembled wire bundle.