Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016)
-
@JadonM Hi, thank you for the post, hmm I didn't get notified and I need to check on that. So another 7 months has past, but I am sitting in front of it now reviewing stuff trying to figure out where I left off. so looks like I need get code setup for priming and do a test print.
-
it's working, printed a 20cm cube, it's so nice to have variable speed part cooling fan!, something the FlashForge Creator Pro couldn't do before , just on/off.
so now I think I want to do the BLTouch tool on this printer next. I do find my nozzle gap differs from middle of print bed to edges, even with the 6.5mm glass, so my smooth rods must not be straight, is this what the BLTouch can help with?
-
@Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
, is this what the BLTouch can help with?
Yes if you use mesh compensation to create a heightmap of the bed.
-
Cool! Ok, will be doing the BLTouch then, Thank you @Phaedrux .
I saw @JadonM did a new graphical display menu
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/14774/how-to-add-a-graphical-display-to-your-printer/18
with external SD card access, awesome! Thank you!I need to update the firmware first , ran M115 to see:
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 Maestro FIRMWARE_VERSION: 2.04 ELECTRONICS: Duet Maestro 1.0 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2019-11-01b1 -
@dc42
I am a little nervous doing this, I'm reading up on updating firmware and document says to make sure I have correct firmware, I understand I need to do 3.0.0 first before I get 3.1.1
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/3.0but I don't see anywhere saying that this firmware is for Duet 2 Maestro.
can you confirm?Thank you.
-
@Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
but I don't see anywhere saying that this firmware is for Duet 2 Maestro.
can you confirm?It contains all firmwares (duet2-wifi/ethernet/maestro and duet3) when you download the .zip file
-
If you upload this zip file as is, without extracting it, to the system tab in DWC it should update everything needed for all Duet2 boards including the Maestro. Then do the same with the 3.1.1 zip file.
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.0/Duet2and3Firmware-3.0.zip
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.1.1/Duet2and3Firmware-3.1.1.zip
-
I got the firmware updated, whew, little scary, but learned just uploading zip files and the machine takes care of it is cool, but I have a question for @JadonM, in your instructions you said
*upload it to your printer via the blue "Upload" button on the display tab of the web interface. *
I use the "Upload menu files" button in display, to upload UltimateDuetMenuSystem-master.zip
and it made a subfolder UltimateDuetMenuSystem-master
is it suppose to be like that?
display is still blank here and I did put the M918 P1 E-4 F2000000 code in the config. -
I think you're going to need to manually place the files from UltimateDuetMenuSystem-master.zip into a folder in the root of the SD card
menu. -
@Fireflynj subfolder sounds wrong, if getting the sd card out and into a computer is tricky you might be able to decompress the zip file, and create a new that does not have a folder in the path for the archive?
-
I created a new zip file and uploaded and that worked, deleting the unwanted folder is proving to be a challenge, got it emptied at least, I guess it will be fine to leave it as it is.
-
@Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
deleting the unwanted folder is proving to be a challenge, got it emptied at least,
Yes, there is no recursive delete in DWC. FTP can be helpful here if pulling the card is inconvient.
-
another bump in the road, so trying to figure out why there is no normally open switch for endstops in the web config tool.
; Endstops
M574 X2 S1 P"!xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on X via pin !xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"!ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin !ystop
M574 Z1 S1 P"!zstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Z via pin !zstopso i found this comment in Gcode wiki.
Endstop type S0 (active low switch) is no longer supported in M574 commands. Instead, use type S1 and invert the input by prefixing the pin name with '!'. Ex: M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop". Invert the input when using an NPN output inductive or capacitive sensor, or using a NO switch (not recommended, use a NC switch instead).what a pain, so now I have to rewire my end switches?
ok... I see it works, but must be a reason this should be changed. -
The only difference is that you use S1 and a ! instead of S0.
It's just to be more consistent with how pins are handled in RRF3.
-
@Phaedrux but notice the comment still says active-high , so it's confusing
-
No argument there. It's always been confusing. Active high and active low are esoteric concepts for most.
-
Thank you @Phaedrux and @bearer for the replies, it helped me stay on it and made progress.
so firmware update is done and I printed a small test part, its working!
now I need to do BLTouch, some lighting, and make a panel to hold the LCD. -
I am still having signal issues, I need to do more then just twisted wires on stepper motors
so, is it best to shield the stepper motors or buy shielded data cable for the sensor?
I have a dual hotend , can I use a single shielded cable with 4 conductor wire or is it best to keep separate? -
@Fireflynj Using shielded, twisted pair cables for thermocouples should be sufficient, but making the sensor cable run as far as possible from the motor wires will also help. If you're still having problems, yes, shielding the motor wires, and grounding the motor case to the frame (we recommend this, see note at end of https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Using_the_internal_drivers )
The hot ends can also be producing interference, as they are controlled by PWM, so at certain frequencies that may effect the thermocouples. When do you see interference? When motors are powered up, and/or moving, or when the hot ends are heating? If your hot ends are both mounted on a single carriage, I'd think it would be okay to use 8-core, 4-twisted-pair shielded wiring for the thermocouples. If your hot ends are independent, then you'll need separate cables going to each thermocouple.
Is there a particular reason you're using thermocouples? PT1000 don't need a daughterboard, are less susceptible to interference, are good for high temperature, and accuracy should be very good on Duet Maestro.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
-
@droftarts said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
Is there a particular reason you're using thermocouples? PT1000 don't need a daughterboard, are less susceptible to interference, are good for high temperature, and accuracy should be very good on Duet Maestro.
Ian
It is what that was on the stock printer, I converted this printer a year ago and there was no guidance to follow. so was not aware if that was a better option.
But why is the duet having issues when the stock printer worked fine with that setup?
