2 weeks and already went bad? Duet 2 Wifi?
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@dc42 , does this quality for warranty replacement?
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@EzeE said in 2 weeks and already went bad? Duet 2 Wifi?:
I started a print and the bed did not trip my z stop
What exactly do you mean by this? Was there a head crash? The Y driver not working is one thing, but the thermistor reading 2000 would indicate a possible short.
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So when I started the print the X, Y, and Z all homed properly. The Z axis moved down and the extruder moved to the center of the bed. What should have happened but didn't is the Z should have moved up which usually trips Z sensor. Instead it sat there like it maybe thought it made the move and then started extruding with the bed not in place. Which is why I tripped the stop.
The Z not moving into position could be my fault since I unplugged z probe since it stopped working, but code is still in there.
There was no bed crash.
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Also when the Hot end started reading 2l the Bed went to 2k as well.
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Just fixed the Thermistors reading 2k. Found an old post about a delta printer having similar issue and the M305 lines being commented out. Scrolled up to look at config.g I posted and my M305 were commented. Loaded the backed up config.g file from printer and readings are 21 degrees idle.
So now just the Y not working. And possibly z-probe.
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@EzeE Please send M115 to the Duet, and post reply, to report the firmware version.
Were the X and Y axes moving particularly fast when you pressed estop? What motors do you have on X and Y? Standard TronXY X5ST-500? I notice you have the max speed, accelerations and motor currents set quite high:
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z12.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z180.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z100.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X1680 Y1680 Z1680 E950 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
Thinking maybe sudden stop during fast move caused a voltage spike back through the driver, killing the driver.
Ian
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@EzeE said in 2 weeks and already went bad? Duet 2 Wifi?:
Just fixed the Thermistors reading 2k. Found an old post about a delta printer having similar issue and the M305 lines being commented out. Scrolled up to look at config.g I posted and my M305 were commented. Loaded the backed up config.g file from printer and readings are 21 degrees idle.
So now just the Y not working. And possibly z-probe.
So... how did you manage to start the print? Did you send the M305 commands by hand? And I thought you said the probe wasn't working anyway (which is why it started printing 6mm off the bed)?
Ian
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The z probe worked for couple days then stopped. so I unplugged it while I await a new one one. I set it in slicer to move down 6mm for initial move to center then up 6mm to start the print.
No I loaded my backed up config.g which do not have the lines commented out. I'm not entirely sure how they got commented out in the first place. That is one I will be pondering for awhile.
Is it possible it somehow loaded the config.g.bak? I wouldn't think so but at this point I'm really confused.
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It just started initial extrusion and brim print so not fast at all.
Motors are SL42STH40-1684A
I looked at RepRap.org chart to get rates currents which it shows listed at 1.68 Amps
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4/21/2020, 2:46:28 PM M115
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 2.05 ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later FIRMWARE_DATE: 2019-12-13b1 -
@EzeE said in 2 weeks and already went bad? Duet 2 Wifi?:
Motors are SL42STH40-1684A
I looked at RepRap.org chart to get rates currents which it shows listed at 1.68 Amps
You shouldn't run motors at 100% of their rated current; they will get hot quickly. The recommendation is 50 to 85% of their current, so 840mA to 1420mA. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Rated_current
But it's unlikely this will have burnt out the driver, just got the motor hot.
Ian
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@EzeE To get you up and running again, as you have a spare driver on the Duet, plug the Y axis into E1, and change the M584 line in your config.g to:
M584 X0 Y4 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
config.g is the file that is used at startup. Unless another file is called . I expect you commented out the temperature and heater lines (M305 and M143) instead of the Z probe lines by mistake, when your probe stopped working.
For your probe, check the continuity of the wiring; sounds more like a loose connection or bad joint. What probe is it, and how was it connected? See: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe
Or, until you get your BLTouch, you could set the probe type to P0, which is manual probing. When a G30 command is encountered, a popup shows in DWC, asking you to jog the hot end until it touches the bed, so you set it manually.
Ian
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@EzeE I wasn't able to open your images last night, but did manage to this morning, wanted to check that the stepper driver pins were soldered correctly on the underside. There's one photo that shows this, a bit out of focus, but looks like they are fully soldered.
So, we are happy to replace this board under warranty for the failed Y stepper driver. Please contact Filastruder ( @elmoret works there, so I guess you already have!) and follow their warranty process. Reference this thread for the warranty claim. Sorry for the inconvenience!
And don't forget to reduce the stepper motor current on the replacement, or you may overheat the motors!
Ian
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Thank you Ian,
I will contact Filastruder.As for motors I will reduce the Amps back to 900, which they originally were since I followed a video from Chris's Basement for original config.g but changed amps due to video age, reprap chart, and ignorance about them running at 100%.
Temp lines are possible I commented wrong lines and didn't save. Since E-stop reboots board it would explain why after the stop it went 2K on thermistors.
It was/is an inductive sensor. The Blue and Brown wire were plugged into always on fan slot for 5v power and black line was plugged into Z-probe in. I followed the instructions on that link initially when I plugged it in as well as other posts here from other people that had the same printer/sensor. It very well could still be a bad sensor I have not ruled that out.