Start print in center of bed FT-5
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How are you liking the duet wifi with your ft5?
I am about to buy the duet and a 7" panel . Would like your opinion on how it went with setting up the ft5. Thanks -
what are the methods for getting the printer to START printing in the center of the bed instead of the corner. Native g code provided with firm ware, Slic3r, and Cura all start in the same wrong place.
Using Slic3r works as it should for me. That is to say the parts are printed where they were orientated on the build plate when I sliced them which is usually in the default centre position. Have you defined the size and shape of your bed in the slicer?
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I would set X and Y endstops to high end and that will make the front left Y0,X0. It works better in the long run.
I'll paste my config later when I get home but as long as you slice with the model in the center of the plate it should print like that.
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Well if you have owned and configured 3d printers before im sure its easy.
As far as the physical board and its mechanical set up its an elegant, robust piece of hardware and and tolerates a lot of errors in hooking up with out burning out the drivers or main chips +1 for that!
The web interface is very nice to work with.
That being said.
the only drawback, and I haven't run into this problem yet, on the physical build is a surface mount fuse labeled F1.
I'm sure there are good reasons why they made this design decision but if by chance you blow it you only have two options.
1 remove and re-solder a new surface mount component which I put on the same difficulty level as trying to circumcise a mouse.
2 solder in a new fuse holder same difficulty level but with the added bonus of a changeably fuse (I'm sure the mouse would love it)
on to the set up
having never seen G-code owned a 3d printer but 7 years as a mechanic and quite a few window box pc builds under my belt i have found the set up to be supremely frustrating. I certainly cant blame the duet wifi for the majority of my issues as people have set this board up with no issues on many different machines but a lot of assumptions are made in the 3d printer community
for instance when you go to set your end stops you have a choice between high end and low end. low and behold there not talking about the physical dimensions but where the end stops are located in RELATIONSHIP TO THE START AND STOP POINTS OF THE AXIS.
I can see the eye rolling and head shaking as the experienced people read this but if you have little or no background in geometry or computer science it can hang you up a bit, try googling "difference between a high end and low end switch on a 3d printer". So I would suggest if you've never done this before get a friend who has.You have to slice your stl and send it to the printer via the web interface. I know it makes no difference how the file gets to the printer but it would be nice if i could send directly from the slicer via the web interface to the printer.
I have been struggling with the configuration for about a week now, couple of hours a day.
its alright though because I could have come here anytime I wanted and asked a question and if im lucky the man who designed the board would have given me an answer.Despite the frustration im having a ball, I will get it in the end
If you want a quality product that will serve you well for years and can outperform most any other board I do suggest this one
OH you don't need the panel due I have it hooked up and haven't used it once for configuration Im sure I will use it once im printing regularly. -
Thank you for answering
I have entered the dimensions in the slicers.
thank you for the advice and the config you will post. If i have to i will move my end stops x would be no problem. but i would have to tear down the gantry and hot end to reverse.
the 713maker gantry upgrade kit i have installed was not engineered to be flipped so if i can avoid it i will. -
Well if you have owned and configured 3d printers before im sure its easy.
As far as the physical board and its mechanical set up its an elegant, robust piece of hardware and and tolerates a lot of errors in hooking up with out burning out the drivers or main chips +1 for that!
The web interface is very nice to work with.
That being said.
the only drawback, and I haven't run into this problem yet, on the physical build is a surface mount fuse labeled F1.
I'm sure there are good reasons why they made this design decision but if by chance you blow it you only have two options.
1 remove and re-solder a new surface mount component which I put on the same difficulty level as trying to circumcise a mouse.
2 solder in a new fuse holder same difficulty level but with the added bonus of a changeably fuse (I'm sure the mouse would love it)
on to the set up
having never seen G-code owned a 3d printer but 7 years as a mechanic and quite a few window box pc builds under my belt i have found the set up to be supremely frustrating. I certainly cant blame the duet wifi for the majority of my issues as people have set this board up with no issues on many different machines but a lot of assumptions are made in the 3d printer community
for instance when you go to set your end stops you have a choice between high end and low end. low and behold there not talking about the physical dimensions but where the end stops are located in RELATIONSHIP TO THE START AND STOP POINTS OF THE AXIS.
I can see the eye rolling and head shaking as the experienced people read this but if you have little or no background in geometry or computer science it can hang you up a bit, try googling "difference between a high end and low end switch on a 3d printer". So I would suggest if you've never done this before get a friend who has.You have to slice your stl and send it to the printer via the web interface. I know it makes no difference how the file gets to the printer but it would be nice if i could send directly from the slicer via the web interface to the printer.
I have been struggling with the configuration for about a week now, couple of hours a day.
its alright though because I could have come here anytime I wanted and asked a question and if im lucky the man who designed the board would have given me an answer.Despite the frustration im having a ball, I will get it in the end
If you want a quality product that will serve you well for years and can outperform most any other board I do suggest this one
OH you don't need the panel due I have it hooked up and haven't used it once for configuration Im sure I will use it once im printing regularly.thank you , thank you , thank you!!
this was the information I was seeking . I am not new to 3d printing but have only messed with ramps and arduino. I have worked with 32bit ARM environments before mostly with uavs and such. I was looking at the smoothie board for the past few weeks but came across the duet yesterday and its everything I was looking for . my only gripe would be that you cant use it for video like I can with my Pi setup. I went ahead and ordered the duetwifi and 7" panel. I know I may not use it much but man that thing is gonna look sweet all set up . I have lots to learn here and I am so excited to get started . -
Thank you for answering
I have entered the dimensions in the slicers.
thank you for the advice and the config you will post. If i have to i will move my end stops x would be no problem. but i would have to tear down the gantry and hot end to reverse.
the 713maker gantry upgrade kit i have installed was not engineered to be flipped so if i can avoid it i will.Ahh it's not stock then?
Where does your hotend home to? You have a picture?
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"RELATIONSHIP TO THE START AND STOP POINTS OF THE AXIS"???
im a bit confused here , I am building a very modified FT5 for this board . I imagine that my endstops are low? -
Low endstops = endstops near the X=0 and Y=0 end of the bed or gantry
High endstops = endstops near the X = maximum and Y = maximum end of the bed
You can have one high end and one low end if need be. Once you know which end your endstops are and the X and Y coordinates at which they trigger, configtool will generate the correct homing files and the correct M208 commands in config.g for you.
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its not the board but 3 d geometry in general. the point where xyz all meet is numbered 0 0 0 so your location start point could be
X POSITION = X-0 ,Y POSITION = Y-0 ,Z POSITION = Z-0
I am assuming. after much reading and no direct answer from any source that 0 is low and thus if i have my end stop at a 0 position it is a low end switch, even though my bed is all the way up, its starting point is Z-0 -
Thank you for answering
I have entered the dimensions in the slicers.
thank you for the advice and the config you will post. If i have to i will move my end stops x would be no problem. but i would have to tear down the gantry and hot end to reverse.
the 713maker gantry upgrade kit i have installed was not engineered to be flipped so if i can avoid it i will.Ahh it's not stock then?
Where does your hotend home to? You have a picture?
looking from the front to the rear Y right x rear z of course up
please forgive the mess, I haven't reached the tidy up point and if i could figure out hoe to post a pic i would. -
For posting images you can upload to https://postimage.io and it will give you a direct link. You then add the image in your post using the image option in the options above.
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Low endstops = endstops near the X=0 and Y=0 end of the bed or gantry
High endstops = endstops near the X = maximum and Y = maximum end of the bed
You can have one high end and one low end if need be. Once you know which end your endstops are and the X and Y coordinates at which they trigger, configtool will generate the correct homing files and the correct M208 commands in config.g for you.
ohh , it was sounding much harder than what I was thinking , all mine should be low if I understand your post correctly.
thanks ! -
here you go https://s21.postimg.org/ywcgd5v93/gantry.jpg
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ok got it to work with Slic3R Thank you every one
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ok got it to work with Slic3R Thank you every one
Can you post yout config so i can look and see whats going on with the ft5 . I would like to see what you did to fix your issue to gwt a better understanding . Thanks
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This has not been tuned and I only have it working on Slic3R , have not tried the native files that come with the firm ware.
Also they have an IR probe for it that is inexpensive might want to research that because its very accurate.; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Mar 15 2017 21:11:01 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time); General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates…
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X300 Y300 Z400 S0 ; Set axis maxima; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; Define active low and unused microswitches
M558 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 H0.2 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
G31 P600 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X15:285 Y15:285 S20 ; Define mesh grid; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E32 I0 ; Configure microstepping without interpolation
M92 X160 Y160 Z800 E160 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X7200 Y7200 Z3600 E7200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X7200 Y7200 Z3600 E7200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1500 Y1500 Z500 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1200 E800 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout; Heaters
M143 S260 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 260C
M301 H0 S1.00 P10 I0.1 D200 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning)
M305 P0 T100000 B3988 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Network
M550 Pconfig18 zdive reduced ; Set machine name
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; Enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP; Fans
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on; Custom settings
M552 S1CONFIG.JSON
{"board":"duetwifi10","firmware":1.17,"compatibility":2,"nvram":false,"geometry":{"type":"cartesian","mins":[0,0,0],"maxes":[300,300,400]},"drives":[{"direction":1,"microstepping":32,"microstepping_interpolation":false,"steps_per_mm":160,"instant_dv":120,"max_speed":120,"acceleration":1500,"current":1000,"driver":0,"endstop_type":2,"endstop_location":1},{"direction":1,"microstepping":32,"microstepping_interpolation":false,"steps_per_mm":160,"instant_dv":120,"max_speed":120,"acceleration":1500,"current":1000,"driver":1,"endstop_type":2,"endstop_location":1},{"direction":0,"microstepping":32,"microstepping_interpolation":false,"steps_per_mm":800,"instant_dv":60,"max_speed":60,"acceleration":500,"current":1200,"driver":2,"endstop_type":2,"endstop_location":1},{"direction":1,"microstepping":32,"microstepping_interpolation":false,"steps_per_mm":160,"instant_dv":120,"max_speed":120,"acceleration":250,"current":800,"driver":3}],"idle":{"used":true,"factor":30,"timeout":30},"homing_speed_fast":"30","homing_speed_slow":"6","travel_speed":100,"z_dive_height":0.2,"slow_homing":false,"probe":{"type":"switch","trigger_z_height":0,"trigger_height":0,"trigger_value":600,"x_offset":0,"y_offset":0,"speed":2,"deploy":false,"points":[{"x":15,"y":15,"z":0},{"x":15,"y":285,"z":0},{"x":285,"y":285,"z":0},{"x":285,"y":15,"z":0}]},"num_nozzles":1,"bed_is_nozzle":false,"bed":{"present":true,"heater":0,"use_pid":true,"width":300,"length":300},"chamber":{"present":false},"max_heater_temperature":260,"heaters":[{"scale_factor":100,"series":4700,"thermistor":100000,"beta":3988,"a":0.000467125,"b":0.0002507522,"c":0,"channel":0},{"scale_factor":100,"series":4700,"thermistor":100000,"beta":4138,"a":0.0005717725,"b":0.0002416626,"c":0,"channel":1}],"toolchange_wait_for_temperatures":true,"generate_t_code":false,"tools":[{"number":0,"extruders":[0],"heaters":[1],"x_offset":0,"y_offset":0,"z_offset":0}],"compensation_x_offset":15,"compensation_y_offset":15,"mesh":{"x_min":15,"x_max":285,"y_min":15,"y_max":285,"spacing":20},"home_first":false,"orthogonal":{"compensation":false},"network":{"enabled":true,"name":"config18 zdive reduced","password":"","dhcp":true},"fans":[{"value":"30","inverted":false,"frequency":500,"thermostatic":false},{"value":"100","inverted":false,"frequency":500,"thermostatic":true,"heaters":[1],"trigger_temperature":45},{"value":"100","inverted":false,"frequency":500,"thermostatic":true,"heaters":[1],"trigger_temperature":45}],"custom_settings":"M552 S1"} -
This has not been tuned and I only have it working on Slic3R , have not tried the native files that come with the firm ware.
Also they have an IR probe for it that is inexpensive might want to research that because its very accurate.Thank you very much , what IR sensor are you talking bout ? I dont remeber seeing it at filastruder. Do you know of a usa distributor?(EDIT : i must have missed it at filastruder . I see it now . I was expecting something to look a bit different. )
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Here's my config file:
;; ;; Folgertech FT5 Configuration ;; M111 S0 ; Debugging off G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X305 Y304 Z410 S0 ; Set axis maxima M574 Y2 X2 Z0 S0 ; Define microswitches M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F200 T6000 ; Set probe type G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z1.80 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M584 X0 Y1:4 Z2 E3 ; Map to specific drives M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 - X M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 - Y M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 - Z M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 - E0 M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 - Y M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X80 Y80 Z399 E492.45 ; Set steps per mm M566 X1200 Y1200 Z60 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X8000 Y8000 Z600 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X1500 Y1500 Z500 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1200 E900 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout M143 S260 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 260C M305 P0 T100000 B3950 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heated bed (Heater 0) M305 P1 T100000 B4388 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for E0 (Heater 1) M307 H0 A281.7 C430.4 D4.4 B0 ; Bed PID M307 H1 A344.7 C122.8 D5.5 B0 ; Hotend PID M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; BLTouch M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C M550 PFT5 ; Set machine name M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; Enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off M106 P1 S255 I0 F500 H1 T50 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on M106 P2 S255 I0 F500 H1 T50 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on T0 ; Select first toolI home the hotend to back right of the printer (as standard for the FT-5) I set X & Y switch to high end so it's parked around 305. That gives me a front left corner of the bed X0 Y0, front right of Y0 X305 and back left of X0 Y305. In S3D i just tick flip Y build plate so every STL i load is usually the correct orientation ready to print
