WIP CoreXY with heated chamber

felt342

Yes I do like this method with IR as it cheap to try and easy to assemble to see how it works.

felt342

I found another problem with my bowden tube, that bend on the picture was causing all unnecessary blobing... I also managed to shorten bowden tube to 650mm.

This was before:

This is a new mount for extruder eliminating that bend:

And my first Marvin with 50microns layer height

Tomorrow I should get magnetic flexplate from FIlafarm, after almost two months of waiting!

dc42

@felt342 said in WIP CoreXY with heated chamber:

Dual extrusion doesn't really work as I expected - maybe my tool change files should be adjusted properly. But it does leak then it switching tool then it goes to continue print - but I think this is just spending more time on tweaking feed rates and pressure advance.

I found that dual extrusion can work well under the following conditions:

Use a large amount of retraction when retracting filament from the unused tool. This only really works with PTFE-lined hot ends, which are great for PLA but limiting with other filaments (E3D quotes max 240C for the Lite6).
Use the standby temperature facility of RRF to keep the non-printing nozzle at a lower temperature, e.g. 160C when printing PLA.

A remaining disadvantage of dual nozzle printing is that when the non-printing nozzle passes over filament that has just been laid down, it leaves a mark.

IDEX dual extrusion printers do not have these disadvantages. Perhaps your printer can be converted to IDEX?

felt342

@dc42

IDEX - that looks like a proper way to do it, I even will not lose any building volume as I do have good free spacing on a side! Thanks for a suggestion. I investigated a bit and found Dyze hotends exist with liquid cooling addition, sadly I didn't find anything similar from E3D. Do you maybe have a suggestion of another single liquid cooling hotends?

Haven't look yet for a CoreXY conversion to IDEX, but it should be doable with just Duet wifi what I have now?

dc42

@felt342 said in WIP CoreXY with heated chamber:

@dc42

IDEX - that looks like a proper way to do it, I even will not lose any building volume as I do have good free spacing on a side! Thanks for a suggestion. I investigated a bit and found Dyze hotends exist with liquid cooling addition, sadly I didn't find anything similar from E3D. Do you maybe have a suggestion of another single liquid cooling hotends?

Haven't look yet for a CoreXY conversion to IDEX, but it should be doable with just Duet wifi what I have now?

E3D doesn't sell a water cooled version of the V6 (except for a water-cooled version of the Titan Aero), but if you search "water cooled e3d v6 heatsink" then there are a few hits, such as this one https://youprintin3d.de/hotendszubehoer/e3d/wasserkuehlung/792/water-cooled-heatsink.html. I've no experience of either those or the Dyze hot ends.

An IDEX printer requires at least 6 stepper drivers, so one more than you have on your Duet WiFi.

felt342

Oh yes I see, will need an extension board
Thanks for a E3D water-cooled heatsink!

DaBit

So far I am having decent results using a Chimaera for different support material. I placed the support nozzle ~30u higher than the main nozzle, which prevents dragging. Extensive cooling and wiping during a toolchange takes care of the ooze.

It is slow as hell though. Idex or toolchanger would be way better.

felt342

@DaBit

Can you post your tool change files, please?

DaBit

Sure: https://www.icecoldcomputing.com/directlink/3dprinter/Dabit3D_config_10feb2020.zip

Mind you, these files are a work-in-progress also. I reworked the tpostX.g files yesterday to improve the wiping process, and did not test them yet.

felt342

@DaBit

Thank you! I will give a try to it.

felt342

Some updates on work in progress machine

At this moment I am - working on lighting, sealing the chamber with aluminum foil, figuring out the door mechanism, wheels, and feet! Eventually, it became direct drive extruder, much happier with results!
https://www.icloud.com/photos/#07fyEOQcG_z7WxKabaN22UowA

mrehorstdmd

Nice! Looks like you're getting great print quality, too.

Does that center frame member on the top of the machine interfere with the extruder carriage cables/hoses? It looks like it might depending on the position along the X axis.

felt342

@mrehorstdmd

Thank you!
Yes indeed it looks like it might, but I moved it to the right so it does not interfere. In the end, I will remove it, otherwise, the cable hose and liquid hose will be in touch with top cover and probably will mount cable chain.
The big thing I want to mount and test is a heated bed, but with this world situation of Corona I am already in a delay of 3 months...

There is my latest benchy

felt342

A bit of safety first! Kids around...

felt342

https://youtu.be/TYQHQd6ypSA

Its also visible how cantilevered bed is quite stable.
Print test - 100mm/s internal perimeters, exterior got 77 mm/sec.

felt342

And there is lighting, and top covered. Still waiting for a heated bed to come...

mrehorstdmd

Do those print cooling fans actually move any air? Axial fans don't usually work against the back pressure that any sort of flow restrictor produces.

felt342

They do seems enough, but I must say they always on 75% to make me desirable result, meaning very loudly also :)).
Will you suggest to change on something else? I fully am open to comments and experience!

mrehorstdmd

Radial blowers move more air against the pressure produced by flow restrictors. This type of thing usually works better: https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Cooling-50x50x15mm-Radiator-Accessories/dp/B07NTKG9K4/ref=sr_1_15?crid=O279YCVTBA45&dchild=1&keywords=radial+fan+24v+for+3d+printer&qid=1585683940&sprefix=radial+fan%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-15

felt342

@mrehorstdmd

Thanks! Ordered! Need to figured out the connection method, as I want to place watercooling block later on the extruder motors... It doest not matter the position of how I can place radial fans?