Ok, I got everything connected up. It wasn't without its hiccups, but I worked through them. Somehow, magically, the wiring between my Z stop switch and the DuetWifi board went bad. I tested this with a multimeter and proved that it was the wires running from the printer in the main bundle of wiring. I spliced in a new length of wires between the Z stop switch and the board and now it works fine.

I'm left with a single issue: I'm getting an error message from the bed heater. I've tried both orientations of the pins for the bed temp sensor, and the behavior is the same either way (I don't know enough about the temp sensor to know if there's a polarity or not.

I'll post that in another thread so that it gets new eyes.

Yeah, jumper is correct and I get the correct voltage on LEDA. A new panel is on the way from Filastruder and so it should be fully functional again shortly.

You can use bossac.exe from the Tools folder of my github repo under Windows 10. I need to update the instructions, or else build a new version of bossa.

In fact active low enables are the default, so you shouldn't need to use M569 to change the polarity. The drives will get enabled when they are first commanded to move. Sending M1 or M18 or M84 disables them.

To expand on what Tony has said, if your normal homing position is the minimum of all the axes (i.eX=0, Y=0 and Z=0) then connect your min end stops to the 3 connectors on the duet. If you use M208 to set your axes maxima, then once the machine has been homed, it won't go beyond those limits so the max end stops aren't needed. If you want, you can connect all the max end stops in series and wire them to a spare Estop, then use M581 to define that as an emergency stop interrupt. In theory that would prevent the machine from crashing beyond the maxima if it were instructed to do so before the axes had been homed. Be aware though, that until David gets around to changing it, interrupts don't work during a macro and that if you use DWC to move the axes, such moves are treated as macros. So, if you instructed the machine to move beyond it's maximum limits through DWC, and the machine had not been previously homed, then the maximum end stops would still be ignored and it would crash. Therefore, best practice is to always home the machine as soon as you turn it on, and better still, lower the motor currents in your homing file and put them back up when homing is completed. HTH

To clarify, I only used the X axis motor, I know it works and is wired up to a 4 pin connector. I hadn't yet wired the Y-axis to a connector so I used the X-axis motor. The motors are not the issue, this much I know.

How about another parameter on the M305 line to add a Channel name to the Heater and this get read by DWC and PanelDue at boot time?

Not sure how easy or difficult this would be just a thought?

You don't need to change anything in the config file to use an SSR to control the bed.

Thanks David!
Probe LEDs look away from the camera, but they still light up the part pretty much.
I'll try your advice.

It worked alright, it heated up, so I won't be worried. Thanks for the answers! 🙂

I thought some time ago about mechanically deployable sensor using this design (unfinished) and two strong micro magnets. Maybe this will be helpful for you. Probe can stay in deployed and printing positions, you can deploy it manually or use special place where probe can be deployed automatically. I thought about attaching micro optocoupler (optointerruptor? about 4 mm x 8 mm x 4 mm size) from inkjet printer instead of David's IR probe to the same mount. IR probe is unreliable in my case because of scratchy surface.

Noctua doesn't offer any 24v fans. All of the 24v "quiet" fans that I could see on Amazon in the US are super chunky, and I'm not too confident in picking from digi-key's catalogue.

M906 does set the normal operating current.

I imagine crashing the nozzle into your build surface could cause quite a bit of damage!
And you'd be right!
However, the magnetic ball joints let go before it does any damage.
The torque multiplication was part of what I wanted. Fast printing needs high acceleration which requires torque.

On a different (commercial) project I found the stretch in timing belts to be an issue moving the end effector fast - it needed high precision and the elasticity in the belt caused judder in the position. That was solved using lead screws - and hopefully they will benefit this for the same reason.

Si

I solved it by using a good old 7400 NAND chip, used as an inverter, with a pull-up resistor on the input. Seems to work nicely.

Hi, was looking for a Wiring forum. I was having trouble with noise getting into my Ste-per motor signals going to my extrude-rs. the result was printing a circle the extruder would over extrude on a then under extrude. I was able to mitigated to and extent with configuration, but it was still there. When i got my new WIFI board i polled the old Duet controller out of my case and put the DuetWIFI board in. this left me with wires that were tin'd with solder, but no connectors. As i was eager to try the board out i Crimped the connectors on my wires and went to get a new configuration setup for my printer. after fighting the issue stated above, i decided to try and old trick we used to use refer-bushing old equipment, and solder the wire Crimped in the connectors. another trick i used (Old Audio trick) was to twist the wire harness wires before reinstalling them. Walla, problem solved. being and older gentlemen, i was reminded of Murphy's law. Go the extra mile when changing or wiring your printer. It will save some time

Glad to hear it!

Great, thanks!

Someone else reported something similar in another thread, with a similar-sounding thermistor. AFAIR it turned out that there was a short circuit between the braid and one of the thermocouple wires.

Not as glad as I am!