Posts made by zov

@jay_s_uk said in magnetic PEI sheet - will it interfere with smarteffector?:

I use a whambam system on my predator (PEI sheet with magnetic base)

Does you print nylon filament? And if so is there any issue with adhesion? Thanks for advance.

I have not got removable PEI sheet (but consider one as a replacement) but I use geckotek3d spring steel sheet on magnet base with smarteffector for about 3 years and have no problems with it. So IMO it should be the same with PEI sheet on magnet base. BTW I would like to know how will PEI be working as my geckotek3d cover has worn and they do not produce the plate anymore. HTH

Thanks everybody who response to me! Your help is appreciated. I might contact Olsson directly but not sure they know smart effector very well. Accordingly to BPisLife remark now I am inclined to try hardened steel nozzle first.

@chrishamm : Thanks for your response! Was there anyone at the show that used Olsson Ruby with direct contact Z-probe?

I have been successfully using standard brass nozzle in E3D V6 hotend for some time and was happy. Now I am going to try some of advanced filament like CF filled nylon. They are abrasive so more hard nozzle is the must. I would like to use Olsson Ruby but not sure how it will work with Smart effector. Does it survive impacts with the hot bed during auto-calibration? Maybe someone has an experience with such combination.

As the topic starter I have just received a very generous offer from Haydn willing to send me a set of ball studs from the new batch free from charge. What's an exceptional service! Many thanks to Haydn for his hard work of improving already excellent design!

Thanks for your info!

@dc42:

I don't advise connecting multiple fans in series, because there is no guarantee that they will divide the voltage equally, especially if they are mounted in different ways so that one experiences greater resistance to air movement than the other.

Me too, I just would like to know if noctua's fans can be controlled by supply voltage PWM to use them with 12V power as they are very low noise and long lasting fans.

What is the configuration that works for you? Parallel connection with 24V-12V DC-DC converter or a series one without PWM pin? Just want to know if noctua's fan is working if controlled by PWM of supply voltage.

If I got it right you have 24V PSU so you put the fans in series. But you have no chance to make PWM control from a single signal in this configuration without quite a fancy level translator circuit. So your best solution would be like in the last post of thread you gave the link on. You should use a 24V-12V DC-DC converter. Connect its input to your PSU output and its output to power and ground pins on your fans in parallel (yellow and black wires at fan connector). Then you can connect PWM control pins of the fans to FAN0 on DUET board (or any other which are convenient for you) in parallel. This configuration should work and control fans' speed down to 20% according to datasheet.
ADD: You can try to use series connection of the fan but leave the pwm pins unconnected and connecting power supply pins of the fans to fan connector on Duet board. Then you can use standard pwm mode of Duet firmware. I don't know if noctua's fans would be speed-controlled in this configuration.

Won't argue with you as I don't have any practical experience of using LEDs with such low currents. Anyway thanks for a new knowledge you gave me.

If you look at photos of OP you see he is measuring voltage between 2 terminals not diode test.
ADD: And I have mistaken in the post above: the current through LED should be about 1.2 uA not 12 uA. So it makes the multimeter much more unlike as a shunt to lights LED on.

Look at the spec's of my multimeter (Fluke 289), input impedance 10MOhm < 100pF so the current through LED is about 12 uA in our case. Don't think this current is able to fire up any perceivable glow in LED. To speak frankly I don't check it by myself so can be mistaken and contemporary LEDs might be such effective.

If the multimeter is in good shape it would have input resistance in order of mega-ohms so it can't provide an essential current to light LED and to make such a big voltage drop across LED. I suspect that heater's nMOS switch is partly fried.

Fully agreed, support should be authorized.

@deckingman:

This isn't my area of expertise by any means but some time ago I built a NAS which uses something called Unraid. The software resides on a USB memory stick and to use it, you supply the GUID of the memory stick and in return, receive a key which is linked to that GUID. I don't know if something like that would be a viable solution. i.e. purchasers of genuine boards receive a key which is tied to the processor unique serial number. So the software won't work with clones (because they won't be able to obtain a key). I guess that would infringe on the "Open Source" nature of what you are doing though? Dunno - just a thought…..

In no way a USB memory stick can be a reliable access key. It can be cloned with a standard PC and minimal googling. On hardware IP protection. All big software companies have
tried and failed on this thorny way. IMO it isn't worth efforts trying that for this type of hardware/software/firmware we consider, not to mention "Open Source".

The bed heat LED is off on your first photo but lights on on second one. Maybe this is a cue?

Another possibility is to up ssh server on router, nowadays most of them have it. You can make access to it by private key file that is more secure then login/password. Then you can use local port forwarding to redirect traffic to your Duet, something like
ssh -L 8080:Duet_IP:80 routerIP.
If you run Windows you can use Putty for the same purpose
Then type in browser's address line
localhost:8080
and you get secure encrypted access to your Duet.
Google "ssh port forwarding" to get detailed info.
HTH

Added: all above said is possible only if your home router has access from outside (white IP, not grey IP hidden by provider's NAT). The same is true for VPN too.

It depends on supply voltage applied to LED and LED's type. If you are going to attach LEDs to FAN headers then Vs = Vin (Duet supply voltage 12V or 24V). For LED you need forward voltage drop Vf and working current Id. Then R = (Vs-Vf)/Id. If voltages is in Volts and currents in mA then R would be in kOhms. Forward voltage drops for LEDs typically are: red - 1.8V, green - 2.2V, blue/white - 3.5V. Working currents are about 10-20mA (the greater current the brighter LED lights). For example, Vs =24V, red LED, Id = 10mA then R = (24-1.8)/10 = ca. 2.2kOhm. You can check how bright LED lights simply connecting it in series with choosen resistor directly to board power supply. HTH

Regarding shielded cable. As we have now many sensitive electronics in printers Z-sensors for example we should consider not only from RF interference to external devices point (certification) but also as a source of noise and interference for our own circuitry. So shielded cable is not a bad idea, if you have it then use it. But without it you most likely wouldn't have any problems.