Thank you once again for your patience and all the help. 3d printing is new to me. And my computer skills imprive daily. Cura now loads a file

Thank you

So i read the post you sent i understand the theory behind, but being a dyslectic, math would not be my strong suit.. ... i have esteps of 415 in my m92 and a total of 97 mm total extrution out of a 100mm,,,, I'm comming up three mm short
Would someone be kind enough to run the equation for me. Im afraid i have no clue.
I'm not be able to understand the fractional equation...
Thanks guys,,, in advance.
A work around would be fine too ..i though about just canging the value intill I'm supper close but that wouldn't nessicary be correct either..
....just closer
Im a firm believer in finding your own solutions but with this kind of thing this forum has great value for myself and others like me.

VOLTAGE CHANGE ON HEATED BED
I have. A cr10-s5 Some timen ago i asked if one could change the voltage on a stock cr10s5. If you remove the build platform you will see 4 solder connections indicating that there might be two coils
Leading one to think that the change is possable from 12v to 24v. Im sad to report ( at least on my machien ) it is not an option ..the pads are paired and can not be wired in seires. For those that would like to heat a little faster looking at a complete reolacment of your heating pad is the most likely going to be the only option. Sorry guys but no cheep fix here. Thanks for your input. its not often we get this level of support keep up the good work and thanks duet for a great product

I understand"finally." Thanks guys
If my memory serves me right ..when i first bought it as a cr10-5s curra would communicate and move The printer thru the curra software, but with the usb

so here is where i lost it
When the dwc was installed. That was no longer possable.
So i move my printer and write to the sd csrd thru the dwc. never the slicer.. just forget that that was with the original control card

And if i wish (but only) transfer a finished gcode file
Via curra (using the addon) ... to the dwc onto the sd card
Then launch the print ....

Ultimatly i loose the printer controls via usb for curra... No biggie! just use duet wifi interface instead

Last... to understand the curra addon,,it only writes your choosen gcode file to the sd card in the duet via the wifi funtion and that is all it is capable of

Would that be correct?

For refreance the 95% extrution solved most of the gunk on the nozzle thanks for the input guys

So thanks for all the input
I managed to putball the pieces together and have the printer running consistent 1st layers.
Everyone who chimed in contributed to a bit of the picture in the true spirit of this site.
Once again i have had success at one more strugle to understand... thanks again for all the help
The last piece i was missing was the actual hieght the capasitive sensor gives the best readings.
2MM was what i found out.
Thanks all...... Ed........

My second question would be for dc42
As far as 3rd party slicer programs, are there any plans to incorperate a wifi link that we can use with
Oter slicer Programs in the future such as mattercontrol or other independant proprietary Slicers. I believe as of now the only
Slicer that will work via wifi is curra with the proper add on.

16055140473776388353493397964383.jpg Could not find a sili! sock for my mosquito hotend so i down loaded a mold i thought it turned.out realy good for.high temp silicone got the mold off of thingiverse in case you need one too
1..My question is if i add the sock now i should retune my p.i.d.???? And
2...when i give the gcode comand does it override the previous entry automaticaly...

I might.be off base but did you check the fuses on the board there are 2 of them pull them off the board and check them with a meter both of them...
Also you might have a Moffett ( small circuit board w a heat sink on it ...it is between the bed and the board itself
That's where I'd start to look. You can look at the ongoing termi Al's with you volt meter, if
You do have power there you could have a blown Mosfet

@droftarts
thanks

I've been using the duet wi fi board for a few years. And in the next six mo. or so i plan on building a cnc plasma table. Ofcourse I would love to stick with a duet board for the hardware. Can you all maybe make suggestions on what path would be a good one. ..what board would be best. I'm interested in using hight control
Along with a fairly large table min 5 x6 ft.
Some of the questions I had was stepper size
W/or without separate controllers for the larger steppers ect. I'm kind of known for a bit of overkill so I don't mind spending a little extra to over build it. Also I'm assuming that a software package would also be needed. Instead of a slicer program. Please advise and thaks for the input.

Good day ya all
Well i think I'm gonna take a stab at using duet to build a cnc plasma cutting table.
I already have spare boards I bought some time ago. Is this a good plan ?
I love my duet wifi-2 boards I use for 3d printing and also have duet 3 board I'm not using.. so I'm fishing for info on the best way to go.
Please chime in if you have any experiences you can share, such as what board would be best and easyiest ...also where I can find the best software for ease of use ect.ect.

Thanks in advance. Support the Hobbie and
Buy anything but junk from China...
Keep authentic duet parts and board available by not buying clones
BUY AUTHENTIC DUET!!!!

Great. Thank you

So here's my question
I went from low whlatt to 1300 watt heating pad. Wit a ssr.
I'm about to do the pid. And M303 H0. Says
Auto running heater 0 using target temp. Of 75c. And pwm 1.00 are these setting correct for me to run my pid. Mostly I'm asking about the pwm setting it seems to me that there would be other settings to consider the massive jump in wattage. "Please advised" it just seems to me that I'm missing a step. Where it's gonna heat way too fast. ...or maybe not. Is there other parameters I should be looking at. Like M307 maybe?????
Thanks for any input.

So is it M307 to start the pid.. or M303

Making the jump from 12 v bed heat sink to 1300 watt 120v heat pad. Cr10s5 printer
So here's are my concerns

1. What format given my circumstances should I use. Years ago I remember reading something about bang bang as apposed to what we run with a Moffett style setup. I am using a ssr rated at 40 a. And an input voltage
   (Trip ) of 3 to 32 v d.c.
   What should I do to get the best results out of my new heat pad.
   This is what i would like to know
2. "The trip" voltage for the ssr. Can I use the same wires that signaled the Moffett to heat the old pad. ??? Or would it overload the output...???
   2 do I need a dif. G code to run the extreme high wattage or would (such as bang bang) or will ot work just fine off of the original programing
3. How fast can I let it heat up. Will I have warping issues if I heat too fast ???
   4 anyone who has done this before. I would merry much appreciated your input.
   Thanks a lot. And if anyone knows links that would help educate me, that would be great
   Thanks in advance guys

hey guys so I was an elecical contractor for about 30 years it's a cr10-s5 and it ran for about 4 years off of a 360watt psu I think why the psu went bad because I put a ball screw and two 2 Amp steppers. To accommodate several mods. It's now installed and everything seems to be o k I am going to change out the bed heater to a thousand watter and use a ssr to switch the line current I gotta laugh cause it takes like 20 min. To get to temp it's more of a heatsink that anything
I appreciate the input and always ask dumb question because I don't know it all that's for sure you all are.great.for putting up with my dumb questions and.i do appreciate it. This is a great Hobbie and duet rocks. I've learned a lot thanks to you all

@ziggymanpopo I would think that would be much better right?

I have 1075 watt 10 Amp supply that is supper quite