@gnydick
Problem with bugs, is you don't know its a bug until you know the root of the problem.
Most all faults are configuration or hardware issues and rarely is it actually a software glitch.
Most new users are going to assume strange machine behavior is a "bug", especially when they are using outdated firmware.
On my 24V 40W heater I had to reduce max PWM to 90% otherwise it will overshoot and fail the auto pid tune.
So I've had this board for a little while on my FT-5 R2, it's working well I'm still fine tuning it.
I notice that I get LaErrors when running M122
It seems to operate fine, but I do seem to get random ribbing at times.
any ideas?
M122
=== Diagnostics ===
RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet version 2.0(RTOS) running on Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Board ID: 08DGM-9T6BU-FG3SN-6JKD4-3SD6S-TUZHD
Used output buffers: 1 of 20 (20 max)
=== RTOS ===
Static ram: 28380
Dynamic ram: 95820 of which 0 recycled
Exception stack ram used: 468
Never used ram: 6404
Task NETWORK ready, free stack 324
Task HEAT blocked, free stack 1256
Task MAIN running, free stack 3624
=== Platform ===
Last reset 04:43:30 ago, cause: power up
Last software reset at 2018-12-29 20:06, reason: User, spinning module GCodes, available RAM 6404 bytes (slot 3)
Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000, CFSR 0x00000000, ICSR 0x0441f000, BFAR 0xe000ed38, SP 0xffffffff
Error status: 20
Free file entries: 9
SD card 0 detected, interface speed: 20.0MBytes/sec
SD card longest block write time: 0.0ms
MCU temperature: min 38.2, current 39.6, max 39.7
Supply voltage: min 24.1, current 24.3, max 24.7, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0
Driver 0: ok, SG min/max 0/373
Driver 1: ok, SG min/max 0/283
Driver 2: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 3: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 4: standstill, SG min/max not available
Date/time: 2018-12-30 16:30:35
Slowest loop: 9.68ms; fastest: 0.08ms
=== Move ===
Hiccups: 0, StepErrors: 0, LaErrors: 22, FreeDm: 178, MinFreeDm 150, MaxWait: 0ms, Underruns: 229, 0
Scheduled moves: 885813, completed moves: 885784
Bed compensation in use: none
Bed probe heights: 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
=== Heat ===
Bed heaters = 0 -1 -1 -1, chamberHeaters = -1 -1
Heater 0 is on, I-accum = 0.0
Heater 1 is on, I-accum = 0.5
=== GCodes ===
Segments left: 0
Stack records: 2 allocated, 0 in use
Movement lock held by null
http is idle in state(s) 0
telnet is idle in state(s) 0
file is idle in state(s) 0
serial is idle in state(s) 0
aux is idle in state(s) 0
daemon is idle in state(s) 0
queue is idle in state(s) 0
autopause is idle in state(s) 0
Code queue is empty.
=== Network ===
Slowest loop: 4.30ms; fastest: 0.01ms
Responder states: HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) FTP(0) Telnet(0) Telnet(0)
HTTP sessions: 1 of 8
If your building an FT-6 consider a proper 1/4 (or thicker) Mic6 or ATP-5 build plate, the stock beds from folgertech are almost useless without glass- I have a FT-5, also I am in the process of bumping the sticks they call Z rods to proper 12mm ones.
I also highly dislike tethered printing, SD card printing is far more reliable, and with the Duet being able to monitor and adjust stuff on the fly with G-code I see no reason not to just put files on the system SD card, With some prints ranging to 2 3 or even 5 days, that is a lot of time for a single hiccup to ruin your efforts.
Did you by chance hook up the stepper with the duet powered on? even though the duet is protected from such things, it's still advisable not to plug or unplug steppers while powered on.
I've moved axes before powered off and that caused the monitor to blink- I try to refrain from doing this, but it has not harmed my duet, it has never harmed a ramps before either.
I'm curious to see what happened.
After fighting with under/over extrusion issues with my MK10 hotend, I played with coasting, extra prime amounts, retraction speed/distance, I finally used Pressure advance and it essentially fixed the problem.
I found that setting the retraction distance lower than normal and the speed around 50mm/s fixes it, using higher retraction distance caused a little under-extrusion in my case.
I have the advance value at .06, retraction at 1.3mm and speed at 50mm/s.
You can even edit your accelerations, stepper current and more while you are printing- essentially anything and everything, just enter the command in the console.
Also baby stepping for that first layer.
I can't go back to a regular board anymore.
@elmoret
I usually use the continuity test, remove power, place the leads on the fuse, beep! it's good, no beep it dead.
Of course there are always exception in the case of a short circuit that is bypassing a blown fuse- but it's uncommon.
Glad to hear this was protected by a fuse!
Now you aren't done, look over your machine to see if you can find out WHY it blew the fuse in the first place, bare wires, dodgy power supply connections, ect.
Appears it has fixed it, done a few prints, currently have a deceivingly long print wrapping up- only 144gr but takes up the entire bed, 23hrs in 1.5 to go and no LaErrors.
Thanks @dc42 .
looking waaaaaay better than my 1.4 MKS, it had issues with this print as it is a retraction and geometry nightmare- steppers and drivers are barely warm, however I did install heat sinks just because I had them.
Now to build in a web-cam and filiment runout switch, possibly a optical bed level sensor, but I'm new to configuring such a setup, I have a Anycubic delta with a microswitch probe, it works, but that stupid machine will have a stroke and either slam into the bed or print into the air randomly after reboots and require the whole process again.
The Duet isn't cheap and I can see where a clone may be tempting, but, If you are paying $100 already, just fork over the other $60 and get a genuine part that has been tried and tested.
I've been burnt on clones before, and an expensive printer that extrudes expensive material and can easily destroy it'self in a matter of seconds and can start on fire isn't something to cheap out on.
I would take a screen shot, but on the duet control menu you can pull down files such as config.g edit them there or copy and paste in the command line and hit enter, it will load up the new values right there, printing or not- it's stupid easy- I'm not from a coding background, but dabbled a bit with drones and game hacking- I can't tell you what every command does, but I just use a cheat sheet and add descriptions in configuration files.
What I mean by current is the current to steppers, X,Y,Z,E or whatever, Imagine you are getting hot motors, or your extruder is wanting to miss a step or two, you can raise or lower the values without interrupting the print or compiling anything.
Imagine you are noticing some ringing in your print, you COULD slow the print down, but that affects everything, including your move and retract speeds, you could go in to config.g adjust what you need or if you are using adaptive acceleration control, lower or raise the value on any and every axis.
Baby step is a great tool if you goof on the G-code print and need to bump the Z up or down a smidgen, without stopping, re-slicing and trying again.
All I'm saying is the web control is far more useful and advanced than any slicer program I've used or seen- I use cura to do the slicing and use the duet control to adjust, tune, swap filament on the fly.
You may think configuring machine settings while printing is pointless, but it saved my tail on a 3 day long print! my extruder was starting to skip when I swapped filament, extruder temp was fine, so I bumped it up and it finished the job no worries- sure I COULD have bumped up the temp and hope for the best, but I wasn't going to waste 2 days for it to fail.
Maybe ditch the side vents and just make two large slits on the opposite ends.
Yeah, so that's a no-go as I expected.
Looks like I need to save up another $75 for steppers. Trying to get this thing as accurate as possible.
@phaedrux
I used a .6 volcano exclusively for a couple months and probably 15 lbs of filament.
I found fast retractions work better around 70mm/s, I really didn't have much of a dribbling issue- this was on a stupid ramps board too.
I also never used combing and still don't, I just retract on layer change.
looks like the entire bed is moving quite a bit.
How do the lead screws look while spinning past 650mm?
It may be that your steppers are actually shifting on their mounting points near the end due to the leverage.
If you have pulleys on the steppers, it may be that they are oval shaped and are push and pulling on the steppers.
It also may be that your linear rods are not leveled near the top causing the steppers to struggle.
I would forgo the belt idea, my machine (FT5 R2) uses a belted Z, but it is designed so the belt is perfectly aligned so as to not to impart any leverage issues.
I'm not sure how to configure dual Z endstops, but I don't think it's that difficult, you would designate two steppers on one channel and the third stepper to another.
Yeah, if I'm reading it right and your parts cooling fan was coming on as part of thermostatic control it will flag you that the hotend isn't coming up to temp since you have something blowing on it.
I have my hotend fan to come on at 50C and always have thermostatic OFF on the parts cooler fan.
Although it's not this issue, you might want to insulate your hotend if you haven't already with a silicone boot or ceramic cotton- do a auto PID tune if you do put something on it.
Post your config g. file.
Trust me, more and more categories won't solve any issues, but may actually cause more of a headache when you are trying to find or figure out what exactly you are looking for.
I use a program at work to log time, history, parts and notes, we have about 30 action categories, 45 system categories, and probably 600 component categories- most everyone has thrown in the towel and use random and incorrect job codes- making it a living nightmare to look through history and figure out what the hell is going on.
I spend about a solid hour just selecting categories and logging in notes and that's IF no one has already goofed it up.
You have 3 fans it looks like the third has a ; this will ignore that line.
The first fan what is that? you have a setting of s0.3 that will reduce it's max speed to 30% and will probably conflict with print G-code and possibly cause it to run all the time.
Have you attempted to PID tune?
What are your voltages during warm up?
What is your start g. in the slicer?
Your parts cooler fan should remain OFF until the G-code commands it on- if it's on all the time you have a configuration issue.
Which looking you have H0:1 I don't know if that is an actual setting as mine is H1
Also your parts cooler should be S0, not S0.3
This is my config
; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M307 H1 A317.2 C180.1 D4.0 B0 S0.9 ; Set PID
; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
@gnydick
But priority is subject of opinion.
For instance a guy that is having hell with his printer, but all he is printing is a Spongebob du-dad for his desk- not a big deal if it takes a little while to get it running.
For someone who's job or client is relying on the machine, a simple problem could be a big deal for them.
There isn't too much traffic here, it's easy enough to scroll down and look for unanswered questions, as well as it to browse through the history to find out if their question has already been brought up and addressed.
This is how mine is
G21 ;metric values
M107 ;turn off fan
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home X, Y and Z axis end-stops
G1 X0 Y0 Z25 ; Drop bed 25mm
M140 S{material_bed_temperature}
M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0
M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0
G0 X0 Y0 F9000 ; Go to front
G0 Z0.2 ; Drop to bed
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 X40 E25 F500 ; Extrude 25mm of filament in a 4cm line
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
; G1 E-1 F500 ; Retract a little
G1 X80 F6000 ; Quickly wipe away from the filament line
G1 Z0.3 ; Raise and begin printing