Posts made by TLeTourneau

@EzeE

Here's what I've done to mine:

Duet 2 Ethernet
Duex 5
7" PanelDue
500x500x9.5mm ATP-5 Cast Aluminum tooling plate with three screw leveling (may change now that I have triple Z axis)
Wham Bam Magnetic Build Plate
Triple Z Axis (3-92 oz.in. 2.1 amp motors) with 12x2MM single start lead screws and 12mm linear rods (still trying to figure out if I need the rods or not)
Linear Rails for X and Y
E3D Hemera
MOSFET for hot end
1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch
Aluminum bracing at all corners for rigidity

I learned something this weekend, I'm not a machinist! Although I gave it a valiant effort I wasn't able to create the new side support bars for my bed out of the 1.5" x 3/8" 6061-T6511 aluminum bar. Although I had a vice on my drill press I was not able to get the holes for the lead screws and guide rods centered and square to each other on the bars. I've contacted a local machine shop and they should have them made for me in a week or two. I may put a small milling or CNC machine on my wish list for the future.

What can cause an "extruder 0 reports no filament" message and the printing to pause? The printer has a standard switch type filament sensor and isn't running out of filament. If I press resume the print resumes without issue.

@mrehorstdmd
Yeah but I don't want to make my print bed smaller.

@Danal
That is very nice, now I wish I had thought to have tabs machined into my build plate! Looking at that design I'm wondering if I'll need the 12mm linear rods. I'm going to have 3 T12x2 lead screws, 2 on the outside edges of the build plate on one side and one in the center on the other side. The build plate is attached to a relatively solid frame mode of 2020 and aluminum bar shown in the first and thirteenth posts. The aluminum bar is being replaced with a 3/8"x1-1/2" piece of 6061-T6511 aluminum bar to minimize flex.

@mrehorstdmd said in Remounting my print bed:

Nylon won't work because the friction is so high you won't be able to turn the leveling screws (I tried).

Do you think derlin would work? My brother can get derlin in the sizes that would work.

@mrehorstdmd said in Remounting my print bed:

PTFE bar or block

Yeah, I tried finding some when I built it out the first time and struck out. I'm going to give it another try. I really appreciate the responses!

The heater is inset 25mm from the edge of the bed on all sides.

This is the front which is the single constraint:

This is the right rear which is the triple constraint:

This is the left rear which is the double constraint and the one I had the problem with creating a smooth channel. I'm hoping that mounting an U channel here will help with the issue.

@mrehorstdmd said in Remounting my print bed:

Maxwell or Kelvin type

I'm had attempted to implement and am shooting for a Kelvin type tetrahedron-vee-flat. I was not able to machine a smooth channel/groove for the two constraint point in my build plate and am wondering if affixing a c channel to the bottom of my build plate for the two constraint point will alleviate that issue. I plan on using that in conjunction with triple Z auto bed leveling.

Strange question but what c channel size would you guys recommend for the ball head screws? It looks like the most common would be 5/16" (8mm) which is actually 8.7mm across internally or 1/4" (6mm)? The ball head measures 8.7mm across so I am leaning towards the 5/16" but I thought I'd see advice first.

Thanks in advance!

Well, for cost savings I ordered a Duex 5 to use with my existing Duet. I'm going with the 3 T12x2 lead screws, now I'm just trying to figure out how to mount the bed. I think I see what you're saying about mounting the bed using U channel, I may be able to mount the bed to some small pieces of 2020 too. The ball screws I have seem to slide on that surface alright. I''l have to see what I can figure out, all of the parts will be here in a few days. I also ordered a Hemera and a Wham Bam magnetic print system to try out.

@Phaedrux said in Lead screw question:

@TLeTourneau said in Lead screw question:

500x500x9.5mm cast aluminum build plate

Well that is a very large and heavy bed, so I would say the thicker the guides and lead screws the better. Depends what your budget is.

Also for the lead screws bare in mind that the larger the screw, the more rotational inertia, so your acceleration will likely need to go down to keep from either skipping steps at the start of a Z move, or over rotating at the end of a long z move.

Well I don't want to say money is no object, if that were the case I probably wouldn't be modding a TronXY but I have some discretion. I think I'll try these, any input on the parts selection?

The motors are either going to be:
Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper Motor Kit 92oz.in 2.1a 4-lead 60mm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QGBUO1C/?coliid=I1FI9NK78500QA&colid=1EJS5C5NLQWI&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

or

MOTECH MT-1705HS200A 114oz.in 2.0a
https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/super-whopper-motor

I think I'll switch to the T12x2 single start lead screws with pillow blocks:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-KFL001-Aligning-Pillow-Bearing/dp/B073KT9BY5/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Flange+Pillow+Block+Bearing+12mm&qid=1581366593&s=industrial&sr=1-7

And keep the 12mm linear rods and use these guides to hold them in place.
https://www.amazon.com/Sydien-Linear-Support-Motion-Bearing/dp/B07DPCZSLH/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=smooth+rod+support&qid=1581366345&s=industrial&sr=1-25

@Danal said in Lead screw question:

@TLeTourneau said in Lead screw question:

For the linear guides, would you recommend increasing the diameter of those as well? I currently have 12mm linear rods with LM12UU Extra Long Round Flange Linear Ball Bearings, 12mm Bore Dia, 21mm OD, 57mm length.

Just "gut feel", those sound fine to me.

On the leadscrews, there's probably no strong reason to pick one v another.

But you think going to 12mm or 10mm over 8mm is worth doing? I just want to make sure I understand the recommendation. Thanks for the replies!

@Danal said in Lead screw question:

@TLeTourneau said in Lead screw question:

When going with a triple Z configuration are linear guides still recommended?

Yes.

Regarding pitch & starts: Have you calculated steps/MM for your motors and each of your proposed screws to ensure that your typical layer heights are a multiple of your preferred microsteps (almost always 16)?

For the linear guides, would you recommend increasing the diameter of those as well? I currently have 12mm linear rods with LM12UU Extra Long Round Flange Linear Ball Bearings, 12mm Bore Dia, 21mm OD, 57mm length.

Yes, both the T10 and T 12 are single start 2mm per revolution which will work for either a 0.1 and 0.2mm layer height.

I have a CoreXY printer with a 500x500x9.5mm cast aluminum build plate and I am switching from dual Z axis to triple Z axis. I currently have dual T8x2 single start lead screws, I am wondering if this is an opportune time to switch to T10x2 or T12x2 lead screws (I haven't found any that are 16 or 20mm) seeing that I need to order a new lead screw anyway. The lead screws are suspended from the top of the frame with pillow blocks with the motors at the bottom.

When going with a triple Z configuration are linear guides still recommended? I have seen images each way and I'm not sure how to proceed with that.

@Danal said in Remounting my print bed:

@TLeTourneau said in Remounting my print bed:

Duet 2 Ehternet support 1X, 1Y, and 3Z axis's with 1 extruder

6 drivers needed for that config. Duet 2 Ether has 5. Therefore, needs expander, or Duet 3. Which has six.

Me, personally, I'd go D3+Pi all the way...

Thanks for the reply, I kind of thought so.

I need to do some research to determine what the advantages are to the D3+Pi vs the D3 in standalone mode as I already have the 7" PanelDue that I can use with it in standalone mode.

I'm revisiting this, I had to take a break to finish school. As the opinion seems to be that the T8 lead screws are to small in diameter I am thinking that I will replace them with 3 T12x2 single starts using 12mm pillow flange blocks to secure them to the top frame and perhaps use the existing 10mm linear guides for additional alignment. So in the picture above it would be a T12x2 on each corner on the near side (perhaps with a 10mm linear rod in between them?) and a T12x2 in the center on the other side with a 10mm linear rod in the existing locations in the photo. I am hoping that will be sturdy enough to adequetly support the bed.

Another question I have is can a Duet 2 Ehternet support 1X, 1Y, and 3Z axis's with 1 extruder or do I need to add a Duex 2 or 5? If I need to add a Duex I may just switch to a 6HC in standalone mode with my 7" PanelDue.

Hello all,

I'm looking for a bit of advice. I am having a difficult time keeping my bed level. It's a 500x500mm 3/8" tooling plate using a variation of a kinematic mount. I think part of the issue is that I was not able to get the surfaces that the ball headed bolts interface with smooth enough, and I haven't been able to find a machine shop that is interested in doing the work. As a result I am considering a fixed mounting for the print bed to its frame adding a third Z motor. Once I've done that I am hoping that between three point automatic bed leveling and mesh bed compensation I should be OK. I am not sure what the specs for the current Z motors are beyond being NEMA 17 60mm so I am thinking about replacing the two existing motors when I add the third Z motor so they are all the same NEMA 17 92oz.in, 2.1a, 4-lead 60mm motors. I am thinking that I will replace the two existing 12mm linear rods with the 8mm lead screws. Should I put one of the 12mm linear rods between the lead screws for support or would that potentially cause binding? My printer is based on a TronXY X5S-500. I am open to any advice, I have done everything I can think of to stiffen the frame of the printer with no apparent change and am running low on ideas, any insights will be appreciated. I've attached a picture for clarity... maybe...

Here is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKD619C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@taconite said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:

Is there a possibility to set max bed temperature?

It should be in your config.g file already, it'll be under ; Heaters and look something like this:

M143 H0 S120                                       ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M143 H1 S280                                       ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

H0 is my bed heater and H1 is my hot end.

I also use a 184C thermal fuse for redundancy.