Posts made by Threephourths

@cncmodeller Mixing is totally fine for the most part. Its mostly recommended to only mix the same types of resins together and some recommend even the same manufacturer. I saw a post on reddit about the Fast/Tenacious mix and tried it out. I ran a few calibration prints after mixing and altered the print settings accordingly to get the calibration print dialed in.

The Tenacious only comes in Clear Yellow and Obsidian Black. I ordered the Fast in Smoky Black and the Tenacious in Obsidian so all the mixed resin parts are just black. But other colors will obviously produce other final colors and may need print settings adjusted as needed

I have a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and have been using mostly Elegoo and Anycubic resins. I recently tried Siraya Tech's Fast and their flexible Tenacious. I highly recommend giving Siraya Tech a shot. I ended up mixing the Fast and the Tenacious and the prints came out very durable! Adding the flex decreased the brittleness and I have yet to break any functional part so far. Siraya Tech also has their Blue resin which I believe is pretty tough as well

I got it installed and working. I think it would help to add some clarification on which version is needed instead of just the red X for the version installed. Thanks!

When I attempt to install the Input Shaping Plugin 0.2.0-pre8-2 I get a Prerequisites message saying I do not have DWC 3.3.0. The NEXT option is greyed out and I cannot proceed with installation. However I am running DWC 3.3.0 and RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.4.0beta7+7 (2022-01-14). It did this to me when I tried to install the Input Shaping Plugin 0.2.0-pre8 as well. Any ideas on why this is happening?

Great! Thanks DC!

I moved my printers over the weekend and the 2 pin terminal connector for the heater leads broke off. I can remove the broken one and solder in a new one no problem, but I need a part number for it. Do you guys have a part number or a link for a replacement?

I "modified" mine by adding .5mm spacers between the bracket and PCB.

Adrian52, I tried your fan duct but found that the sock on the block got in the way and impeaded cooling. I liked that design too even though it didnt work for me.

The Tusk coolers seem pretty interesting as well

Mine seems to sit a little bit higher than 5mm above the tip. Im using the bracket you provided and all original E3D parts (nozzle, heatbreak and block and sock). Weird. On my previous print fan (DC's model) I had to modify the bracket and make it extend a bit lower to get proper cooling. Perhaps I should use my modified bracket with your duct

Im using the 270 currently. Out of curiosity, how close to the print bed should the shroud come? Mine seems to sit pretty high. Anyone have a pic of their setup?

Did you happen to remove any of rods when you did this? I ask because I was able to stop my probe from triggering by changing the polarity to N and S in the arms at adjacent mag balls. Maybe the poles got changed?

Im using this on both of my smart effectors now and I really like it. Well done!

I would still like to know where you paid $360 for the duet. Was that the total price for the duet wifi and the panel due?

Also, I am not an engineer and knew nothing about how to set this thing up. Yes it has a learning curve to it, however, within 2 weeks of receiving it, I was producing absolutely stellar prints. The best part is that they have only continued to get better thanks to the hardware and fimware advances by them. The support and community are phenomenal as well.

Maybe start back from the begining, read the wiki completely and try again? Sometimes tunnel vision sets in….

David suggested (in another thread) changing the polarity to N and S in the arms at adjacent mag balls, this solved my problem with the print fan sensitivity. It might be worth a try

I just converted my system from 12 volts to 24 and since then, my print cooling fan triggers the Z probe. It used to be the other way at 12 volts, with the heatsink fan triggering the z probe. Has anyone else run into this and is there a solution? Also, does the print cooling fan triggering the z probe during a print effect it?

I have to say that I LOVE the duet and the smart effector but the print cooling solution provided has been a real pain. I've printed both of DC42's provided files (bracket and shroud) and I've tried two others on thingiverse but Im still dealing with cooling issues.

When using David's (big up to you, your awesome!) cooling solution it seems to cool the heat block and cause heater faults. Does anyone have any ideas/experience with this?

Any idea if this will be available for purchase from a supplier in the US?

So I just got my Duet Wifi hooked up and when I auto cal it hovers above the bed, checks a few points and then gives me this error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing move.

Any ideas?