Posts made by Thomllama

@Phaedrux seems to be, heaters at least, now all the sudden homing isn't working correct, which I (thought) i'd fixed.. will play later.

OK, this seems to have fixed it? not sure if it's really the right way to do it or not? I just replaced the M307 line from the old 2.x.x firmware. did another PID tune and edited the 3 settings...

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 A68.2 C561.1 D2.6 B0 ;(replaced PID tuned?) PID after RRF3 install
;M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ;(Stock) disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
;M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ;(Stock) disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M307 H1 A472.4 C288.9 D5.0 V12.1 B0. ; (replaced PID tuned) PID tuned after RRF3 install.

THANKS for the response!
it's 3.1.1 now (was 3.0 at time of post, though no change)

• FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.1.1 ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later FIRMWARE_DATE: 2020-05-19b2

Hot end heater and therm - E3D stock for Hemera
Bed and therm - Fodgertech 12v 300x300x3mm alum/PCB plate with stock therm (honestly the thing heated pretty fast till update)

The "P0.4" was just a copy paste thing. redid that, got both the bed and hot end to do a PID tune, but now where to put it? wont do a M500, gives an error. (rather have it in the Config.g anyway), Read that M307 doesn't work anymore? And, even with a PID tune, likely it'll still trip the overly sensitive setting?

Curious?, Why isn't there a simple setting somewhere that you can adjust the duration and rise of temp for thermal protection like in Marlin? How are people getting their beds to heat up with 3.x.x? Can't imagine most beds heat fast enough to avoid this from happening? Guessing there is something I'm missing somewhere?

Config.g included as a file ..LlamaCoreConfig.txt

OK, updated to RRF 3, few minor issues but got them mostly figured out, but the heaters are being an issue..

heating hot end it over shoots by 5-10º c every time now -Tried doing a PID tune but it fails also as it takes like an hour to get to 140º let alone to 240º

try to heat bed and it gets the "fault, bed heating too slow"

Searched the internet but got no fixes.. any ideas? guessing it something simple I'm missing?

thanks

Think there is something similar mentioned below, but many of us who use Octoprint with Marlin printers really miss the line by line GCode viewer in Octo's web interface. It can be EXTREMELY helpful when viewing a print for finding slicer and model errors. Yes All slicers have that very thing, but honestly they try to make it too flashy with colors and such and are very inaccurate to view. The Octo's gcode viewer is simple, black line showing exactly the path from a top view. nothing fancy as in truth that is all that is needed. It shows yo the path of the print head and nothing more. In reality this should be kinda simple to implement in a tab/window, (well comparatively?)

thanks
Thomas

OK, guessing this should actually be easy, but didn't work..

I can plug in by USB.. access , input 552 S0 (Wifi Module is idle - response). 552 S1 (OK response) or 552 S2 (Wifi Module is idle - response). without issue.. so guessing with it reporting idle is hasn't taken the access point info?

@kraegar yaaaa...Thanks but, that isn't happening.. I got one day. that and monitoring/controlling isn't easy. the access point thing seems the best. needs a password so don't see it being hacked easily or anything.. seems the least issues with the best control. Honestly it almost seems better than the standard going through the router.. direct, no router BS... still displays the same control panel on computer/tablet.. think it's best all around..? less I'm missing something?

@kraegar said in Duet Wifi at ERRF event:

If it's at all like MRRF, any wifi will be essentially unusable due to the sheer # of devices trying to talk on it. I just shut my wifi off on the duet before going, and loaded it up with files sliced and ready to print, and managed it all from the paneldue. If you don't have a paneldue, you can do it from the serial console.

no panel, to pricy for me.. Bard was a bit more than I should have afforded..

how to use/hook up serial? USB? to a computer (Mac, as that is all I use these days)

@dougal1957 seems like the best/easiest answer...

searched and found an older post on doing it here in the forums..
Questions as I'm not super tech in this area of things, though far from clueless..

send M589 S(name of spot) P(password) I(IP address)
send M552 S2 restarts and setup in Access Point Mode
Sign in with info from tablet/phone..

think I got it right? Aren't there specifics I need to make an IP address? Know the Password needs to be 8 laters/numbers. anything else I missed?

know this is old, but thinking I might be able to do this over the weekend as I'm bringing my printer to ERRF event and would like to be able to run it? kinda confused on the exact actions I need to do as You guy kinda jumped back and forth.. but from what I gathered.. I can ..
Send M589 followed with some info here? but what how format/details? (S "Name of access" P "Password" then an I "IP address" I can just make up?)
Send M552 S2 (will it auto restart or do I need to restart it?)
and then just sign into it with a phone/tablet?

how badly and I off?

so gunna bring my printer to the East Coast Rep Rap fest. thing is is how to use it there? guessing their wifi is going to be not so great/overloaded. and how to hook it up to my iPad or Mac Book so I can at least print with it.

posted on the facebook hoping for a simple answer but basically everyone said "get the panel" wish I can't afford and wouldn't get in time anyway.

Why isn't there a much simpler method of accessing the thing? Guessing from what I've seen/done so far the USB is basically useless for this. Only other thing would be a suggestion to get a cheap Wifi router and bring that.. which honestly sounds like a waste of money and a pain in the butt. hopefully there is something I'm missing?

@dc42 said in It's out! Firmware 1.21 released:

It doesn't matter where in config.g you put the M564 H0, but I suggest near the end.

Seems to work great! thanks

@dc42 said in It's out! Firmware 1.21 released:

If you mean that you want to allow axis movement before the axis has been homed again, that's easy. Just put M564 H0 in config.g.

so that will return homing to back like it was before the update? I don't need the extra S2's all over the place?

Honestly, is there a way to return it to the old method? I'm finding this rather annoying. Have changed over the Home files, and yet 50% of the time I still get an error. hit the home button like 3 times and it'll finally home.. and then another 25% of the time it'll ignore the end switch and just try and keep going and get all clicking while trying to rip apart my printer. Sounds like it's an advantage to Deltas, but for me on the CoreXY it's really not. Still building/tinkering with the printer and often want to be able to move away from home to work on something, especially the bed. If I add a new nozzle say I want to be able to move away from home, change things, get things loose then home and adjust to bed height and such, now I have to slam it into the nozzle before I can do anything. Also if there is a glob of old drip on the nozzle, I have to heat it up,. clean it off, home the thing, then can move away. Or (like just happened to me) it homes, slams into the cold, hard glob and twists and breaks the hotend or mount.

Also, just a thought but wouldn't it have been better if the firmware update had updated the home files? Or make this feature apply when you enter the Delta option in the firmware and leave it alone for the rest?

OK, face book people helped out and seems I have it working correctly now.. needed to go through all the homing settings file, add and S2 to the end of ever G1 line, unless there is a S1 already there. did screw up and it wasn't sensing the end stops at 1st, but luckily I have copied and save the text in note pad. Started from scratch and re added the S2's and now it seems to be working.

on another note, did a search and basically came up with nothing so.. What is S1 and S2? what do the mean/do?

thanks

OK, I see after doing the Update CoreXY has issue, which I have now, and I read all around what it can't do anymore, but no CLEAR method to fix the homing setting.. just little snippets that are making no sense to me. what exactly do I have to do now that the firmware is updated do I have to do/change to get it to run again? I'm am far from a Codey guy, but can usually figure stuff out, but this makes no sense to me... the Update info says the G1 won't work anymore and need to add some S2 command, but what S2 command? where? does it need a value? do you remove the G0 or G1's from the homing files? Do I have to go in and edit all four Home files in the firmware? will I have to add S2 every time I use the G1/G0 commands?

Kinda stupid silly question but no great on the electronic so just want to check..
But, going by these plugs provided with the board, 14 AWG (gauge) is what is expected to be used with power in and out to the bed?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BeESKG_Fd9_/?taken-by=thomasllama

hey, likely nothing but, was just studying and trying to figure out a few things in the firmware, so I just copy pasted into a test editor. just noticed this 1st line in the Config file-
Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17)
shouldn't that be 1.2X now that I've upgraded? or is that just the "base" and the versions are built on top of it?

That worked!!!!!! thanks a bunch again guys!!! (printing up a few more mounts/parts today on the old i3 clone, hoping tomorrow to be doing test cube prints on this Core XY at the latest )

@deckingman:

@Thomllama:

@deckingman:

Something very strange going on here. How did you get the situation where Z was homed but X and Y were not? The reason I ask is that you can't home Z unless X and Y have already been homed. At least that's how it is and how it has always been on my CoreXY.

ummm not a clue.. just hit the home Z.. there shouldn't be any reason you can't home Z pretty much any time you want… at least none I can think of.

Odd. Perhaps it depends on what type of Z homing switch you have configured. I use the nozzle to probe the bed so my Z homing files move the head to the centre of the bed. Maybe that;s why DWC won't let me home Z without first having homed X and Y.

Anyway, it's you M84 commands that are resetting all the homing status (including Z because it cuts power to all motors). So take them out.

@dc42:

@deckingman:

Edit. I think I know why. You have M84 at the end of all you homing files. This cuts the power to the motors and resets the state to be not homed (because without idle hold, they could easily be moved). Take out those M84 commands.

Good catch! He doesn't have M84 at the end of homez.g, which is why Z is remaining homed.

The motor currents are reduced to the idle value after 30 seconds of printer inactivity. By default this is 30% of normal, which on most non-delta printers is sufficient to hold position. Whereas M84 cuts the current completely, so the motors are flagged as not homed because it is quite likely that they will not be in the same position when you apply power again.

Sweet!! man you guys are awesome!!! I'll check it out in a bit!! Thanks.