Posts made by ScotY

Thank you...so there must be an SD card in there then. Couldn’t remember. I guess I’ll have to take the printer apart to access the USB port. I don’t have an SD card reader for my PC. Very strange why it has stopped working.

Thanks, guys. I never use the SD card and am actually not sure there’s even one in there? Unfortunately can’t check without disassembly.

I have a Google router, forget what it’s called but it’s a round cylindrical device. It kind of has a mind of its own and some settings don’t seem to be adjustable. It had been working fine with the Duet but I’d always have to look up the IP address to use the web control because it changes frequently. I’ll try and check the link for troubleshooting and hopefully I can make sense of it. I struggle with computer and networking stuff!

Out of the blue, my Duet WiFi (it’s an older board, maybe a year or two old) has stopped connecting to my network. When I check the router, the Duet doesn’t show up. However, when I check for available networks with my phone, the Duet is there. Any thoughts on what happened or how to fix this? The Duet is not easily accessible and would require I disassemble the printer. Hoping to avoid that if it’s something simple that I’m overlooking.
Thanks!

Thanks, I realized I was just using the wrong IP address to access the Duet Wifi. And I realize now that the DWC lives on the Duet, not on the PC. It has been quite some time since I set this thing up and I struggled with it a bit. I guess I should probably attempt to update the firmware and all. I first need to reconfigure Simplify3D since I lost all it's settings when I lost the laptop.

Hi David,
It's been quite some time since I've been here as the Duet Wifi had been working great. The laptop I used just died and I can't figure out how to get the DWC installed. I found the github site but that site confuses me to no end. I downloaded the DWC zip file but can't figure out what to do with it. A google search for installing it also comes up with nothing. Please help.

Following the advice found in another thread (it was confusing to me at the time), I managed to figure it out.

I connected my PC to the Duet. Then went to 192.168.1.1. A screen came up (confused me the first time around as I didn’t understand the procedure) and I selected my new router and entered the password for it. Rebooted the Duet, reconnected the PC to the router, and it’s working!

I bought a new router and can’t figure out how to get the Duet to connect to it. I did a search but since I don’t know what firmware version I have on the Duet Wifi, I’m not sure how to proceed. It’s been some time since I updated the firmware and surely have forgotten how to do that. I know it was about the time babystepping was added. Anyway, I can see the Duet when I search for available networks but don’t know how to proceed. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
Scot

Now that I reread what I wrote, I suppose it's somewhat like an extruder. But the feed/stop/retract is not written in the gcode, but rather is from an external input signal. And the "retract" would be in 2-axis. Wow, this is actually more confusing that I initially thought!

Hi Tony,

I'm slowly learning myself how it works but it's a machine that cuts metal via spark erosion. The wire is what is electrically charged and does the cutting. I suppose it's somewhat analogous to a 2-axis hot wire foam cutter. However, the electronics must sense when the spark starts as the wire moves close enough to the part being cut, when the spark is established, and when the wire shorts out. When it shorts out, the cutting action stops and the wire must be moved backwards in order to break the short, then move forward again to reestablish the arc.

I'm assuming the power supply for the wire also has a means of sending a signal to the control electronics. There are a few DIY power supply plans and such available but the big challenge seems to be the motion control. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this stuff. I can see how you could use the Duet to control the steppers and even stop the advance when the wire shorts out. What I have no idea how to do (and perhaps it's not possible today), is how to make the wire back out…basically in the exact opposite direction it moved forward.

Does that make sense?

Thanks!
Scot

Okay, I guess this may be a little bit of an odd question but here goes…

I've been wanting to build a wire EDM machine for a while now and have finally found plans for the power source and mechanics. The mechanics are quite simple, just X-Y motion is necessary.

The question is can the Duet Wifi respond to a signal that would tell it to advance/stop/retract while following the path dictated by the g-code?

Hope the question makes sense?

Thanks, Scot

@DjDemonD:

ScotY

Yes its possible to use it on any type of printer. The module sits below the carriage/effector and the hot end clamps into it.
Please let me know once they are released if you want one. I will post something here, and on reprap forum we will have a support/order thread.

Thanks for the reply. I will definately get one if I can figure out how to mount it. I'm using an E3D Bowden setup. The mount for the E3D is the clamp type and then the mount screws to the x-carriage on the backside. I am assuming a custom mount will be required.

Actually, my setup looks a little like jmg123's setup above. The back of the clamp mounts to the carriage. Then the front clamp goes on, then fan, etc.

This sounds really cool, but almost one of those "if you ask how to make it work, you probably can't figure it out" type of things. I am quite interested in trying one of these sensors. While I do like the IR sensor a lot, it would be very nice to be able to use on any type of surface. Is it possible to mount this on a cartesian printer? My printer is quite small so if the hotend gets offset much, it will likely cause a loss of print area available.

Upgraded to firmware 1.18 and DWC 1.15a and it works great!!!

Thanks for the info. Hmmm…thought I updated the DWC when I updated the firmware but a quick look shows I did not. I'll have to figure out how to to that as I'm on ver 1.14a.

Is there anything that needs to be done prior to using babysteps or just simply send G92 Z___ anytime during the first layer?

So far, this technique is showing a lot of promise! I've edited my config.g file by reducing the acceleration from 800 to 200 on the X and Y. I had no jerk settings in the config.g so I just put in a very low value of 100 on X and Y. I then created a macro that increases acceleration back to 800 and jerk to 200. I have no idea what to use for jerk so just went conservative. I notice that it behaves a little odd when rounding a corner so the jerk value must be off quite a bit.

So, I start the print and it goes nice and slow. Once the small circles are done, I hit the macro and it speeds up…great! But, like DjDemonD mentioned, on corners and starts and stops, it seems like it extrudes too much plastic. It seems like the extruder thinks the print head is moving at normal speed but in fact, it's slowing down around the corners. Is there a setting in S3D that would fix this? I'm assuming it's a slicer issue?

Thanks, Tony…that also is a good idea and might be easier to use all the time.

I'm looking at things now and realized I don't even have a jerk speed setting in my config.g file. What might be a good value to start with? I have a low end cartesian setup.

Thanks for the ideas, guys! I have tried slowing down the first layer speed but when the part is, say, 3" x 8" and there are only 4 holes, the first layer might take a couple of hours!

DjDemonD, I think your idea is the best option and I'm quite sure even I can manage to figure it out! Thank you! For smaller parts, slowing down the entire first layer will work fine but for special cases, it would be worth the extra work. I'll give it a try this afternoon.

Thanks for the reply! I'm kinda new so while I get what you're saying, I'm not sure how to implement it. I don't believe S3D has the ability to change acceleration and jerk so this would have to be done in config.g? If so, how would you "undo" this for the remainder of the print?

I know this isn't really the proper place to ask this but I know there are a lot of smart guys here and I've asked elsewhere with zero results. Anyway, on to my question…

Since upgrading to the Duet Wifi, seems all is working well and I'd like to test increases in print speed. I print a lot of bracket type parts, things with largish flat surfaces and through holes for bolts, etc. The problem is with an overall acceptable speed for the first layer, this speed on a small feature such as a 3.5mm hole, is much too fast. This leads to the hole not adhering and basically making a big mess. If I'm lucky, the print will turn out okay with a visible defect on the part surface that was on the bed. If I'm not lucky (which is most of the time), it will require restarting and slowing the print down. I've tried manually slowing the print down using the controls on DWC but this is tedious and the speed changes often are sluggish to respond.

Does anyone know of a means of slowing down the print speed for small features on a part, preferably a means that requires no intervention.

Thanks!
Scot