Best posts made by samlogan87

Hey Everyone,

I have been doing a bit of reading on Non Planar 3D Printing and thought it would be fun to give it a crack. Currently it is only a Linux based version of Slic3r that has the functionality so I followed some instructions of how to set up and build the Linux version in Windows 10 built in Linux Environment and quickly set up the slicer. I don’t have a profile for Slic3r as I usually use cura so there is a wee bit of tuning to do. I am very impressed with the outcome. Here is video

https://youtu.be/8WurP1lujIE

Even with the air pump part cooling I still had issues with it almost hitting the part so I turned it away.

Sam

I agree with @deckingman

Whilst all of the other counters would be nice to have, as a mvp, run hours and axis travel distance would be more than sufficient.

My 2c worth

Sam

My understanding is it is not about the ac shorting to the dc circuit but more a potential difference building up between the dc rail and ground. Although you are measuring the output of the dc rail to its own 0v pin giving you 12 or 24v (what ever your power supply is rated to), due to the fact it is not grounded to earth, its has the ability to actually be a lot higher than that with respect to ground. It could be 30v or even higher. If for example the dc circuit is isolated from ground but then touches, that is when it becomes a problem. Sensitive electronics such as sensors etc do not like it.

That is my understanding of it. I am not a sparkie, but am in the pumping and irrigation industry where we have sensors (loop powered pressure and transducers etcm) on 24v power supplies that a) do silly things because of it or b) blow up in rare situations. By binding the 0v to ground it avoids these issues.

Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that is what our sparkie said the reasoning behind it.

Kind Regards,

Sam

@dc42 Jeepers, these sausage fingers will struggle with that. Might have to ask a mate. It is hard to see where the upper connection point is from that photo

I am currently upgrading my printer to run and print at much higher speeds. When I am needing to whip up a prototype, I don’t see why it needs to take 30 hours to do so have been spending a bit of time working on it. I am running the EXP1HCL boards on my x and y. I am running them at 48v and I have had the printer running at 1m/s and 30k acceleration. I have not yet printed at that speed as I have had to remake some parts, in particular the x axis gantry as the aluminium I used was too light and cause no end of grief with bed levelling. I am just waiting on LDO to bring out their high speed steppers with encoders so I can make use of the closed loop functions of the HCL board. I am pretty pleased with it. I also have the orbiter 2 and a magnum+ hotend.

Sam

I had the same issue with mine. The auto install through dwc failed and I had to update via bossa to get it working again

Cheers
Sam

@NitroFreak And from this thread

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/11005/news-on-duet-3-release/2

David has said that the Duet 2 will still remain the mainstream board will minor development.

Regards,
Sam

The magnetic filament sensor requires at least 2.03

Yeah I have no idea why that line was in there. I copied the restart on power fail from somewhere and it must have been in there. Oh well I am really happy you guys have sorted it for me. I was starting to get a bit deflated.

Managed to sort it. Turns out it is not a good idea to work on setting up a 3d printer when you are on bed rest for a concussion. You end up plugging the wrong motor into the wrong driver.

@arcadekilla you show a joiner on the effective CAN out with the white and yellow wires but the bus needs to be terminated with a 120 ohm resistor unless you have soldered the jumper on the back of the tool board. For something that has been around a while now and people have been using, it is a pretty big claim stating that it is a firmware bug.

Same as others, to load and unload filament

I should have also said the control board as well as the sensors.

Regards,

Sam

Here is some photos of my first prints. I am pretty happy for my first 3d printer and it being a scratch built as well. The bottom cube was my very first print. So far I have only had one failure.

I have had to remove one of the fans that came with the Flex3Drive, so I am only running one. I am currently looking at designing a duct that allows me to run a tube duct from down where the electronics are up to the extruder for parts cooling. Anyone had any experience with this? It would allow me to run a much bigger fan and keep the weight down.

Kind Regards,
Sam

Managed to figure it out. In all of my playing around I forgot to change the C parameter back. Now to deal with the tuning as it is sitting there humming

Sam

@Veti I saw that. This is more that I gave it a go and it is pretty cool to see it working

That is how my corexy is set up in terms of the top motors as well as how the y axis is also set up. My z axis motors are set up 90 degrees clockwise to that. The only major thing I can see compared to mine, and some of the others might be able to help you as I am still a bit of a noob, is that you have not defined the virtual axis for all the other Z motors (U and V). For you motor speed, current, acceleration, jerk etc you need to have it written in their format Mcode X.... y..... z...:....:.... u..... v..... e..... where the three values in the z should be the same as the values in the u and v bits. You also have not defined enough motors. In your config you have said that z is three drivers but you have only defined 5 where you should have 6 defined for the 2 corexy motors, 3 z motors and and extruder.

Also I see you have defined the locations of the lead screws. Make sure that the order that you have defined them in, is the same order that they are writen in terms of the z, u and v coordinates ie if your first x and y coordinates are for the left hand motor, it is the one connected to the z port and so on. I used 0,0 to measure all the lead screw locations and some values are negative which is fine.

Here’s is the first part of my config file.

; Drives

M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes forwards X Axis
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes forwards Y Axis
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes forwards Z Axis 1
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards Z Axis 2
M569 P4 S0 ; Drive 4 goes forwards Z Axis 3
M569 P5 S1 ; Drive 5 goes forwards Extruder

; Motor remapping for dual Z

M584 X0 Y1 Z2:3:4 U3 V4 E5 P6 ; Driver 0 For X, 1 for Y, Z=2:3:4 U3 V4, Extruder 5
M350 X16 Y16 Z16:16:16 U16 V16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z400:400:400 U400 V400 E420 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X150 Y150 Z12:12:12 U12 V12 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X150 Y150 Z180:180:180 U180 V180 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X250 Y250 Z250:250:250 U250 V250 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X850 Y850 Z1850:1850:1850 U1850 V1850 E800 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits

M208 X0 Y0 Z0 U0 V0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X400 Y400 Z420 U420 V420 S0 ; Set axis maxima
M671 X256.6:-53.6:100 Y239.10:239.1:65.50 S3 ; Define the X and Y coordinates of the leadscrews. Motor order: FR (1), FL (2), RC (3).Snn Maximum correction in mm to apply to each leadscrew (optional, default 1.0)

I hope any of my above ramblings helped.

Kind Regards,

Sam

@dc42 Hi David,

Bugger that was it. I hadn't commented out those lines in my homing files from when I had it set up for closed loop homing and calibration. I will try and see if it makes a difference tonight. In the example homing files you have for the 1HCL board, it has those lines M569 #.0 D0, could I make them D3 I think it is for stealthchop?

They are both running Duet EXP1HCL firmware version 3.5.0-beta.3 (2023-04-14 13:08:48) not that I think it matters anymore

Cheers
Sam

@Chriss I don’t think it is as the one you posted a link to doesn’t have a stepper driver where this one does

Hi @Phaedrux

thanks for that. I have mine set at 20mm grid as well and she is a time consuming job. I did 8 iterations of the nozzle offset. I printed your stl and that has helped alot. It has been coming out pretty perfect to be honest.

I just wanted to confirm at least the order in Cura as I know you helped someone who had issues and you got them to change the order if I recall correctly. For the life of me I couldn't find it.

@brunofporto

Thank you. It has been a labour of love over the past few months. I think today i finally have it running properly after some help from @Mutley who makes the extruder that I have. It is a Flex3Drive. Really solid and works really well. He has helped me no end to get it printing correctly

Kind Regards,
Sam