Copy that @Nxt-1 ! Thank You! Just what I was looking for, some of the stuff feels very buried in Kiss. Cheers
Posts made by Sakey
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RE: Kissslicer + Duet firmware retractions
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Kissslicer + Duet firmware retractions
Has anyone firmware retractions worked when using Kisslicer? Had it working in S3D but jumped over to Kiss and struggling a bit to get the Duet to manage the retractions in the Gcode.
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RE: Part fan needs a push
Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
Will try each one and get back. Just annoying that I keep having to open the case on my printed to give it a shove. It's a Noctua 40mm fan. It has to be on 100% and then give it a flick any lower and it wont keep spinning.
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Part fan needs a push
My part fan seems to need a push (by hand) to get it started and I have very little control over the speed of it. Any ideas?
Cheers
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Dead PWM Fans
Had a wire come lose mid print and i'm pretty sure I've fried the PWM fan 0 and 1.
Setting them to manual to 100% didn't do anything and swapping them to PWM fan 02 everything seem to work (meaning its not the fans themselves).
Took a picture of the chips and was wondering if this is the case (looks like they have marks on them) and what are my options?
Cheers
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RE: Z probe Always Activated
Found it, It's the hotend fan causing it. Cheers DC for the help. Is there a fix for this or is the fan just super electronically noise (but silent to the ear!)
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RE: Z probe Always Activated
Disconnected the 6 pin and the board goes dead. Like its got no power (i'm guessing the board gets its power from the heater power wires?)
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RE: Z probe Always Activated
It's not the standard e3d fan no, but even when they are both off the green light is on and the Web interface is indicating 1000 on the trigger. I can try disconntecting the hotend fan.
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Z probe Always Activated
So I finally set my effector up with default setting last night suggested in the guide. The probe value is stating its 1000 (activated) all the time and it seems very insensitive (have to push hard on the nozzle to make the light go off) .
Have I done something wrong or do I need to swap input value in the code/reduce the sensitivity?
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RE: Carriage Adapter Suggestion for Rostock Max
So Dimensions are as follows,
Holes are 22mm centre to centre
Spigot is 6.32mm
The screw holding it is a 3mm self tapping screw with 8mm washer on -
RE: Carriage Adapter Suggestion for Rostock Max
Thanks. Why might drilling two holes be less stable?
It might have the potential to rock as mentioned as Its only secured in 1 plane. Just a passing thought really. I'm pretty sure it will be OK.
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RE: Carriage Adapter Suggestion for Rostock Max
I'll measure up when I get home tonight but I think its a 3mm screw with a flange. It will work drilling two holes but I don't know just how stable it will be.
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RE: Carriage Adapter Suggestion for Rostock Max
I've just printed some adaptors for the Rostock. I'll upload when I'm at my pc.
Download the STL:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bxtr4ocyxEMsMks0bUxEay1YYXc
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RE: Pt100 temp woes
Cheers DC, Its running in 4 wire mode and for this print the fan is constant. It was as peaking at 400c. I've made sure the wires are running their own track away from anything but i'll give the disablling the extruder motor a go. I think it is a lose connection to be honest but everything seems secure and can't replicate it when the print isn't going( wiggling wires etc).
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Pt100 temp woes
I seem to have a problem with my PT100 sensor and cant really pinpoint what is causing it.
I followed DC's guide and did everything but when I get to printing the temperature seems to fluctuate like I have a loose connection. This cant be replicated when not printing though (i did the jiggle test ). Its odd because its stable until it starts to print. Caused a print to fail when it over shot the safe temp limiter with one of its spikes.
Any Ideas?
Edit: I should mention have I seem to have had nothing but problems with the sensor since I got it. I have rewired it twice and changed to a cat5 cable as its constantly changing temperature. better than it was but not perfect as you can see in picβ¦
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RE: Piezo20 probe and piezo kit now available
Kraegar, Thats the same mount I have for mine and modified the top clamping mount. 27mm fits
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RE: Piezo20 probe and piezo kit now available
I like the viewing window! I think I've thought of a way to support the bowden tube without too much stress on the piezo(if any). Will model and print it when I get chance at the weekend (or next!) and hope its strong enough.
One thing I have noticed I don't get as successful probing with the PEI covered bed compared to when I have it glass side up. It seems the PEI absorbs the hit on the bed a little delaying the trigger? Don't know if this is something others have seen?
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RE: Piezo20 probe and piezo kit now available
Need to solve now how to stop the bowden tube leaning onto the sensor at certain angles probe points giving it false trigger.
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RE: Piezo20 probe and piezo kit now available
Sure, feel free was a bit lazy with the modelling so a few unwelded edges etc. 5 min jobby. Sliced fine in kissslicer though so I left it as is.
Couple of pictures mine.
So principle is the same but the mount is a little different. Couple of badly taken photos, my wiring needs tidying up I know! -
RE: Piezo20 probe and piezo kit now available
So I've had a chance to play my minimal bodge job setup today got it working really well. Repeatably across my warped bed is far better than my FSR. I think I can do better, maybe something more sophisticated than a nut but I'm happy with it as I have no play in the nozzle at all for the moment. I'll upload pictures later but here is my mount for the Moriquendi PCB board for now.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bxtr4ocyxEMsdVFFdHhQalR6TDg