Topics created by RyanP

This is my mount for a Hemera on a CoreXY with toolboard and part cooling.
I have a PTFE tube sticking out through the bracket, guiding the filament..

I have threaded brass inserts for mounting the toolboars end the fan shroud.

There is just enough room for my index finger to operate the lever on the hemera.

The fan shroud can be adjusted up/down by oval mounting holes in the shroud.

Lastly my BL-Touch bracket, mounted on the opposite side with the hemera bolts. The long part is a cable guide.

I have some makeshift wiring in place since my toolboard partly gave up on me.

I hope you will find some inspiration by this.

Bracket.png
Bracket_2.png
Bracket_3.png
Shroud.png
BL-Touch_bracket.png
Screenshot 2022-04-09 202538.png
Screenshot 2022-04-09 202652.png

@aniron said in Duet3 1LC 1.0 vs 1.1:

@dc42 how do you best use that information, though? IF I am not mistaken, you still need to select a single frequency for suppression, not separate ones per axis?

Do you pick the highest amplitude, the average of the peaks, or something else?

Or is this meant for upcoming features?

In the immediate future, you will either pick the frequency with the worst ringing, or a shaper that provides reasonable suppression at both frequencies.

We will probably offer the ability to configure different frequencies on X and Y axes in future, at least on Cartesian printers (It's much more complicated to implement on CoreXY).

@dc42

When I get back to my office later today I may have some further questions to grow my knowledge of proper setting of my config.g as I was experiencing skipped steps.

@ryanp Check the reliability of the wiring from your BLTouch. I found 2 only occasionally intermittent wiring problems that caused me no end of problems. The intermittent nature of the problems had me confused for a very long time. What clued me in was that for a while, the probe started failing to probe at one corner of the bed, every time. That said to me it was the wiring being moved. Sure enough, that was the big problem.

@Veti Thanks for the info. My base printing speed is 60mms, usually doing 80 to 120 for infill. Above that and my printer can't handle it structurally. Thus the hevort based build.

My dealer, Digitmakers in Toronto, just emailed me and advised to bring in the board in for replacement. Thanks @Phaedrux . You guys and Duet3D are the best.

I can't imagine not using Duet boards in any of my printers.

In the new year. Too much printing to do before Christmas and I don't want to miss a 0 or a 1 somewhere in the conversion and slow my printing schedule down.

@RyanP I suspect that dampers are primarily intended for use on screws where you're not pulling the axle sideways as you are with a belt.

@RyanP as @Veti said when you suspect slicer issues try another slicer. I preach that everyone should try all available free slicers every 6-12 months just to be informed what's availabled 😄

Now the issue you mentioned (one layer this another layer that), check if you configured "combine layer", e.g.

infill/combine infill every... support/combine support every...

Do you have anything in the change layer script?

AFAIK there's no way to tell s3d to do what you are experiencing "by mistake", you would have to vary the extrusion width trough layers trough layer change script or trough processes as from what I see you are experiencing this in perimeters... but you can easily test by quickly nistalling ideamaker, it looks lot like s3d and is way more powerful than s3d so you can easily see if it will happen with it too.

To me this looks like a problem with Z height, the "fatter lines" are actually thinner layers than the "thin lines" where you get higher layer height due to whatever reason (mechanical issue, microstepping fail, motor fail...)

@MrDui yes the new setting takes effect nearly instantly.

@Phaedrux

You always teach me something. 👏

@Khumarahn Yes, laws of physics start to weigh heavily.

Since I wrote this, I have changed over to direct drive and you would be amazed at the difference in filament motion response.

In the bowden there really is a push pull aspect to the filament in the tube.

Direct drive is much more precise.

B1 will disable the heaters during the print move to eliminate any electrical or magnetic interference during probing. If your heater has trouble maintaining temp during the probe move and/or you get no benefit from having it turn off the heaters, use B0.

@Phaedrux
As I mentioned umpteen posts ago, the last time I looked was several years ago.

I see that Cura now lets you control flow rate for the outer walls. Which will be enough to let me correct there.

Now get off my lawn!

shakes fist at young people

😉

Dumb oversight. I have been using the same parameters for the probe offset, but completely ignored the fact that I just changed this printer from a Microswiss hotend to and E3D Volcano. Y offset was not correct.

You may find this excel sheet useful: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ihe3rl58z7sdyfu/Calculators.xlsx?dl=0

Your method sounds good. And yes the Ender guide is using a 0.4 nozzle, though it's irrelevant to the calculation since it's already built into the system. It's also only one test to give you a reasonable limit to try and stay within for your speed/flow rate combos. Verify with actual prints. If you're doing large objects with lots of solid infill you're going to cool the hotend more quickly than if you were printing small detail models with lots of short moves.

It's also informative to run the test again at a few different temperatures.

Doubling the length to 200mm makes sense if you're printing those large object with lots of area to fill, but less so or much smaller objects, so testing with 50mm is also useful.

@RyanP jerk doesn't need to be equal to or lower, I was just asking if that were the case because then it might indicate jerk was set too high.

@Justin Please start a new thread.

Thanks for the feedback!