Thank you @dc42, @Veti, and @Phaedrux. Once I get my new motor in I'll try a print before swapping the Z motors to the new set up and then swap the motors and post back for anyone that stumbles on this thread who might have the same issue.

I doubt it makes any difference, but should I be worried about any M204 commands that Slic3r is putting into the gcode? There's no M201, M202, or M203 commands in it.

I've set an M204 in my config.g, so I think I might try to disable M204 from being put into the gcode.

What's the general consensus/practice about this?

@dc42 is there a way to do conditional logic in macros? Something like this sudocode:

resume.g
// resume method after filament runout

// maintain sub state for what action to perform next on same macro call
int globalSubState;

// initial state after runout detected
if (state == "paused" && globalSubState < 1 && e0_temp > 210)
{
    // execute whatever macro sets tool to active temperature
    execcmd "G1 E-100 F1800";  // retract all filament left from runout
    globalSubState = 1;  // set flag for next execution of macro
}
// remaining filament has been removed and new filament has been hand loaded
// go to just above where the last print position was and extrude 10mm to prime, but do not start printing yet
else if (globalSubState == 1)
{
    execcmd "G1 R1 X0 Y0 Z5 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move";    
    execcmd "G1 R1 X0 Y0          ; go back to the last print move";
    execcmd "M83                  ; relative extruder moves";    
    execcmd "G1 E10 F3600         ; extrude 10mm of filament";
    globalSubState = 2;  // set flag for next execution of macro
}
// resume print
else
{
    state == "printing";  // unpause the print and resume printing
    continueprint;
}

Or is there another way to do this with multiple macros that you can call, but all off the same trigger? I doubt it, but it doesn't hurt to ask i hope lol

@hayseed_byte, is there a new URL to your write up? I'm looking to use external push button switches to help with common tasks.

Thanks!

I want to get another Duet 2 Maestro for my Prusa i3 MK2.5S, but I want to run a 24V PSU to power everything. I already have another E3D v6 with 24V cartridge, so I'm not worried about that, but I don't want to replace my 12V heatbed.

If my heatbed is 150W, at 12V it will be pulling 12.5A. I'm thinking about getting this step down buck converter to power the bed. I have an extra DC DC SSR (even though it's the one that the wiki said not to get ...didn't read it until after I bought it) that I can use to wire it to the Duet 2 Maestro for it to control.

In the Q&A section of that Amazon link there is this:

Question: Anyone mesured the 20a version to see how much current backfeeds into the output when the input is removed??
Answer: yes there is im not sure how much but i know there is youll need to connect a 20 amp schottky diode on the out put side to stop that problem.

I know some about electronics but not enough for this. I'm not exactly sure what they are saying. I'm not sure if they saying that when you turn off the current going to the converter that it still has some power that's going to the load connected to the converter (in this case, heatbed), or if there is power back feeding into the the source (in my case, the 24V PSU.)

What would be the correct way to wire this up, or is there another suggestion?

I suppose I could put the SSR between the step down buck converter and the heatbed, or I can put it between the 24V PSU and the buck converter (which I think might be the dumb thing to do.)

The second question I have, will the SSR get hot from being used in this manner?

@dc42, I did not know this. I've been running in bang-bang mode. Crap. Okay, I'll do a bed heater PID tuning. Thank you!

Well I updated to latest RC and I used S3D instead of Prusa Slicer. It does look better I think. I still need to tweak the settings to get rid of the blobs/stringing on the corner. So, maybe it's just slicer settings.

I checked for binding on the smooth rods and it feels fine ...it'll just fall if I let the gantry go.

Actually, probably:

M106 P1 S1 I0 F250 H1 T45			; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F250 H1:100:101:102 T40			; Set fan 2 value, Thermostatic control is turned on

@veti got it! Yes, if I take those 4 screws out (two on either side) the gantry is completely loose of the printer and doesn't touch the lead screws at all. I'll make sure to not snug those screws too much.

@deckingman thank you. I'm working on setting up an S3D profile to print from. I might move back to S3D vs Prusa Slicer, although I will miss gyroid infill. S3D isn't putting any M201, M202, M203, or M204 commands in the gcode it generates (I know you can disable that in Prusa Slicer, but still.)

S3D is also the only slicer I can get to work with the 3D printable planes. Again, the only thing I'll miss is gyroid hah

I'll most likely stick to the printer keeping the config values, and not overriding them via the slicer.

@phaedrux, yes, those are the articles I read when setting it up. I just notice on the graph on DWC that the virtuals show dotted lines with 0C. I didn't realize they would only show up when at critical.

Great idea on tying it to a heater! Brilliant actually lol. It's those little, easy things that we over look. I'll add E0 into the mix for that.

So if these were my lines before:

M106 P1 S1 I0 F250 H1 T45			; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 T45:65 H100:101:102			; Set fan 2 value, Thermostatic control is turned on

This would be them after, (if I want the chassis fan to also be on during E0 heater) correct? (I just added 1 into the beginning of the H parameter)

M106 P1 S1 I0 F250 H1 T45			; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 T45:65 H1:100:101:102			; Set fan 2 value, Thermostatic control is turned on

I'll probably change T45:65 to just T45 ...or even T40

@veti which part are you talking about? Here are my lead screws, Z motors, and the X ends.